Gump

It is a Vaper hvlp touch up gun with 0.8mm nozzle. The listed spray pattern is 7.1- 9.8". I purchased it at Princess Auto. It lists for $34.99 cdn. Gump

Check to see if it is full compound feed or needle feed only, there were differences between 100, 101, 102,and 103 variants. Some also have a longer stitch than others. Gump

The touch up spray gun was designed for automotive paint and should handle any paint. Only uses between 40-50psi, and will spray from a fine mist to a 6-8" wide full fan, with total volume control. Air pressure, air volume and paint volume are fully adjustable. As I said before, my paasche airbrush was constantly plugging and spitting and with the touch up gun, no problems yet. As for cleaning, just put your thinner/water in the pot and spray through, then just wipe off gun, no need to disassemble. It is a gravity feed gun. Much more efficient on large areas. Gump

For painting large areas, I have tossed the airbrush and went with a touch up spray gun for most of my spray dye work. It has a 4 oz pot and was only $35. I found that the airbrush plugged up and spit out drops, leaving bad spots on my work, also much harder to clean than the larger touch up gun. The touch up gun is also fully adjustable as to volume and spray pattern. Gump

I have a 4' x 8' cutting table with two shelves in underneath, that I use to lay my vegtan out flat. The shelves are made of unfinished spruce boards spaced out so that air can move and avoid getting damp spots or mold. My chrome tan and oil tans are rolled and put into sections of sono tube (boxboard form tubes). These concrete form tubes come in sizes from 6" to 12" and bigger in 10' lengths and can be cut with a sharp Olfa knife. My goat and pigskins are just rolled and stand in a wooden barrel. Gump

I have a new Artisan Toro 3200, and it has the accelerator down by the pedal with about a 2" connecting rod. The motor sits behind the head, and the motor controller sits on the end of the table by the flywheel. So yes there are alternative setups available. Gump.

The original legs for those stools were about 1" in diameter and had a slight taper leading to a rounded end of about 3/4". The taper you have is like a knife edge and will poke through. Your square legs will work, but they must be rounded on the end so that they push a lump up in the top and bottom pieces so the end of the leg can't reach the lacing. Gump.

csmartin73; Your bottom thread is supposed to pull up into the leather and leave the knot in the middle of your piece. It looks like your needle is to large for your thread or the wrong cutting point. With some points the thread is not able to fill the holes. Look up some needle point charts from Groz Beckert or Schmetz and they will show you the effect different cutting points will have on stitch appearance. These charts will explain it better than I can. Gump

Water contains many minerals, and some may react with the dyes. You could try distilled water, which has no minerals or chlorine in it. Gump

The shoe patcher is sold. Gump

How full is your bobbin when fully wound? It should only be about 90% full. On my new Toro 3200, I had to adjust the winder kick-out as my bobbins were overfull and binding in the bobbin case. If you look at a full bobbin from the end and can see thread above the rim of the bobbin, there is to much thread on the bobbin. Gump.

Top loops are usually a sign of to little bobbin tension or to much top tension. Check to make sure the bobbin thread is coming out under the tension spring, and that it has slight and even resistance. If the top tension is to tight ,your top thread will lay straight on top, with bottom thread showing at each stitch. It is a balancing act to get the knot to stay in the center of your work. If your bobbin tension seems ok, then back your top tension way off and sew a few stitches, increasing the top tension by 1/2 turn and trying again until your stitches are pulled up inside on the bottom and not looping on top. Also check that your top thread didn't jump out of the discs and jammed in or around something it shouldn't have. Gump

If you want to deaden the noise, simply build a box that your slab will fit in and put a couple inches of dry sand in it and then drop your slab in. Stone cutters use a box of sand to keep stone from shattering when cutting it with a hammer and chisel. Gump.

I have decided to get rid of a few of my Singers, as I just bought an Artisan Toro 3200 and no longer need or have room for the Singers. The 29 k 71 is mostly rebuilt with new drive arm, needle bar, rotating bushing, bell crank and feed motion ring slide bar.Comes with about 50 needles and a few bobbins. Asking $ 650 obo. My second offering is a 132 k 6 in good working order, with 50 needles and 6 bobbins. Will handle 1/2" @ 2 1/2 spi. Third is a 145 w 103 two needle machine @ 3/8" gauge. This machine has 3/4" capacity and will sew with #346 thread. Has new rock arm and needle bar. Comes with 1 pack of needles and 6 bobbins.

To keep your hole punch from going dull, use a piece of scrap leather between your work and the anvil, so that the cutting edge never touches metal. I haven't had to sharpen my hole punch in a lot of years by using this method. Gump

The 302 comes with a clutch motor and you should really have a servo motor for leather work. If they are willing to change it over to a servo, it would be a decent machine but limited due to being a flatbed machine. My old Singer 153 w 103 cylinder arm machine gets a lot more use than my old 111 w 155 flatbed, although both have the same sewing capabilities. A flat bed attachment can be added to a cylinder arm machine to give you the best of both worlds. Gump

David; most professionals use Feibings pro oil dye. Properly applied, it will not run or rub off. It only requires a good buffing to remove excess pigment. As for the eco flo, you shouldn't need more than one heavy coat and then rub off any excess while still wet. I use eco flo pro and don't have any trouble with rub off. Gump

It is a Chinese clone, check out Sewline machines for a similar looking model and you likely will have a source of a manual. Most resellers of these clones will probably have a similar model with identical mechanical specs. Gump.

Thats the metal draw gauge that I was talking about. The blade that came with it was as thick as an axe bit, and the gauge had to be filed to shape so the crossarm would stop rocking back and forth. Not one of my favorite tools. Gump.

I have the wooden strap cutter from a Cali. company and it works great. I have a metal draw gauge and if you don't have a thick, stiff blade, the blade will lay over a ruin your cut, but with a blade thick enough to be rigid, it is to thick to cut properly through anything over 6 oz. I have tried several different types and thicknesses of blades, but in my opinion the wooden strap cutter is far superior to the metal draw gauge. Just my experience but I have ruined a lot of leather trying to use the draw gauge, and never a piece with the old reliable wooden one. Gump

If your punch rolled the edge, it was not properly hardened and tempered. Send it back or take it to a blacksmith and have it fixed. Personally ,I would send it directly back to Osbourne and demand a replacement and all shipping costs reimbursed, as that is a manufacturing flaw and they should stand behind their product. Gump.

Well Carson, I have to get the rest of the parts and see if it works before I decide what to do with it. The timing is good and it turns over freely but I have not run it yet, so I don't know if there are any glitches. I will keep you in mind, but I live in Nova Scotia, so freight would be dear. Gump.

Must be nice to have any holster business. Up here in Canada, we get very little holster work at all. In the last ten years I have done maybe 6 - 7 rigs. There are still those who want a concealment rig or shoulder holster, but it is illegal to carry a sidearm here unless you are a cop or armored car guard. Most of the crooks up here would rather shoot off the family jewels by sticking a gun in their waistband than buy a holster. Gump.

There are two basic neatsfoot oils, one is just called "neatsfoot oil", the other is "neatsfoot oil compound". The compound isn't as dark as the straight neatsfoot oil, but will still darken leathers slightly. Gump.

Thanks for the links, when I checked College sewing, nothing came up, but your search did show some parts. I think I will have to see if 111w or 153w parts will fit, as I have both machines. The tension assembly for a 112 should fit and has dual tension disc set ups. The bobbin case has a bobbin cover with the tension spring on it, and takes a crowned bobbin. The hook is a 203802 and the replacement hooks are 203803 and 203804, but look the same except they take 111w style bobbin cases and bobbins. Gump.