Gump

Gil has Fiebings much cheaper than Tandy.

So maybe hope for Lonsdale Leather as they import and bottle their own dye. Not Fiebings, but alcohol based quality dye.

Gil runs a one man show, and runs it out of his house. Give him a call, he loves to talk shop.

Dwight; I got a 8 oz spool of bonded white nylon with my Toro Artisan 3200, that left fine waxy flakes on everything. It looks and feels like regular nylon, but left a ring on the needle and dust/flakes on everything. It's called Artisan "Sewbond". Don't know of any other waxed nylon other than spools of waxed hand sewing nylon/sail makers thread.

Hello from next door, I'm in NS. I buy a lot of my hardware from Atlantic Leather in Moncton. Gil has the best prices I have found in Canada. I don't know what part of NB you're in, but I drive up a couple of times a year to check out his leather stock, as he gets some nice deals at times. Gil Vineham 506-856-6837.

I have 2 Sewquiet servos, and startup is as slow as you would like no matter motor what setting you use right up to max.

Acrylic craft paint works fine, but you have to thin the first coat to get good penetration, and build up from there to your desired look. But it is only a matte finish and needs clear coat for a gloss finish.

In your first pic you show, the thread is the same diameter as the threads of the material, so you can't hide a two thread knot in material only one thread thick. I have had similar problems when sewing Sunbrella fabric with 92 thread. On a single layer the knot would be on one side or the other. A larger needle does help, but on long runs it will tend to shrink your fabric, [lost 1.5" on a 60" run]. Depending on strength requirements, you could use 46 with a size 16 needle and more stitches per inch. I gave up doing boat tops because their not fun and leather still is !

The Singer screws I have measured have all been standard [SAE] fine thread, which are hard to find, but can be turned on most modern lathes.

Have you tried it with the needle positioner stopping in the up position? Also try a size 18 needle as it will allow the material to grip the thread more, causing more resistance to stitch pull through.

Tandy website shows all Fiebings dye as sold out. Local Tandy manager said no more coming in as of Jan. '24. There is currently stock at my local Tandy, but word is out, so buy what you need.

It's because a cow is not flat, and no matter how you try , it will always try to revert to its unstretched natural lay. When you lay out a side, the outer edges will always have looser lay than the center of the hide, and when you flatten it with a straight edge, the ripples just move to a different part of the hide.

Open the end plate and lower needle bar until the needle is even with hook. With needle down you can see 2 screws on the upper end of the needle bar, these screws hold the needle bar in place.Loosen screws slightly and needle bar should slide up. Change to longer needle and slide needle bar down until needle is timed with hook.Tighten screws and roll machine over to check timing and see if it picks up a stitch.

I have a 145w103 with 3/8 spacing and it works well with left needle and bobbin removed. It will tension 92 thread with no problem, haven't tried lighter, but had no issues going to 210 without touching bobbin tension. You can also raise the needle bar and use 794/7x1/7x3 needles used in 441 machines. There is a better selection of leather points available for the saddle stitchers. The reason for removing left side is due to wind of thread, the rotation of the shuttle will untwist your thread on long runs. Ideally you would have one for the right needle, and the opposite twist for the other needle. But in the usually short runs in leatherwork it doesn't make much difference.

Sailrite is a wanne-be machine. I have a 205RB3 and the folks at Consew are good to work with, even with 40 year old machines like my 227r. The 205 is a rugged machine and simple to time and maintain [OIL]. Bobbins, needles and feet are easy to find. It takes singer 111w type feet.

The serrations are on the outer edge of the blade, not the cutting edge. They are to grip the leather so it doesn't push out of the blades.

Wiss Inlaid 8BLT belting scissors easily cut 10 oz veg tan. Not cheap [$80+] cdn. Bought mine at an industrial tool shop off of a discount table of old stock for $30, bonus.

I made the mistake of taking out the rod once. I had to remove the set screw and back off the adjustment screw under the locking set screw, which is inside the head. Then insert the rod and adjust the screw from there to get your stitch length. Others may explain better, but my rod wouldn't go back in to even screw thread depth until I backed off the adjustment screw. The adjustment is on the rod on the crank that goes down to feed assembly. Gump.

Yes, the circled set screw inside the head allows a slide to move in and out. Mine would only give me 7 spi, and I moved the shaft farther in, and it allowed for more adjustment on the knurled knob.

I have a Consew 227r that uses the same lever set up, and on the inboard end of the lever is a set screw that holds the adjustment lever in place. On mine the shaft can slide in and out, changing the amount of available adjustment. I slid mine in and now have 5 spi. My machine also has the handle pointing the other way with grip ribs pointed up, so your machine may have been tinkered with before.

Escritar; No mods are needed on the 6000, It will sew stitch by stitch right out of the box. I bought one last fall and installed it on a Consew 206, and with a needle positioner will stitch one at a time with just a tap of the peddle. With no positioner, it will stitch smoothly at around 60 rpm. I also have a reliable 4000, that I bought several years ago, and it also works flawless.

Burkhardt; The forward/reverse lengths can be adjusted to match without shimming the plate. There is an eccentric cam on the internal mechanism that will allow you to match forward/reverse stitches.

I just yesterday put a Sewquiet 6000 on a Consew 206RB3. The adapter for the syncro won't mount on my pulley, it has a three hole pattern and the center mount screw is a different size. I had to make an adapter plate to make it work. Machining was required, but not hard. I used a piece of UHMWPE (plastic) that turns easy, could be done on a wood lathe.

College sewing machine parts in the UK has most model 29 parts, but I don't see a bell crank on their site. It wouldn't hurt to check with them on availability and interchange ability.I rebuilt a 29K71 from their parts and everything worked like it should.

I had this problem and it was the hook timing. Roll the machine forward and note where the hook and needle meet, then put machine in reverse and see if the hook and needle meet in the same position as forward. For some reason mine was way late in reverse. When hook timing matched in forward and reverse I had no more problem with skipped stitches.