Constabulary

Yes I have the chip. Its just a cosmetical issue. I´m using the larger pulley anyway so I will try some JB weld. Mechanically the machine is in excellent working condition - zero issues. Meanwhile I have a heavier foot spring installed so I will try to sew some leather in the days to come. I just love the clicking sound it makes njaahahaaa old cast iron is freakin addictive

When you replace just the long rack it could be that it does not play well with the other parts of the gear box. When the gears / racks are in "good" condition they have a flat tip when they are worn the have a sharp tip. But there is of course something in between. I have replaced a pinion bushings on 29K´s twice and both were extremely (!!!!) tight. I heated the gear box and hammered it out with a big punch. Not sure if they were just badly gummed or heat shrinked. The new bushings did not fit very well as they were a bit oversized so I had to sand them down. That something I don´t like to do again as I feared to ruin the gear boxes.

Seems you don´t understand. There is no such list existing as there are literally several thousand different sewing machines on the market. Used, new, some 100 years old. Dozens of brands are existing and dozens of other brand are long time gone but the machines are still out there and are in use but no one knows all machines. But if you want to spend some time checking out Singer brand machines check the ISMACS Comprehensive Singer Sewing Machine Model List - that's probably the closest but thats just Singer - there are dozens of other manufacturers. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/ Scroll down here - a list of approx. 60 manufacturers and I´m sure not all are listed. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/home.html So maybe you can put together a list when your list is done feel free to post it here. I´d say when you have a certain project you want to do come back and ask what machine you need for the certain project.

If you are unsure what you need and the answers here are not what you expect then check with a sewing machine dealer. They for sure will tell you what type machine you need for your project(s) when you explain them what you want to sew. You probably can test sew some of their machines.

The 335 usually is a binding machine and not necessarily set up for heavier leather work. Just from looking at the picture I´d say you have to reduce the bottom thread tension and / or try a heavier tension spring in the top tension unit and / or try a needle 1 size bigger. Or try a thinner bottom thread. Are you using a leather needle or round point needle? I guess you bought the from Atlas Levy, right? They should be able to supply a heavier top spring. Just some suggestions...

Have you tried to adjust to a longer stitch length again?

small video - sorry not much space to place the cam properly - so my dirty fingers are in the way a bit. Thanks Steve but I have an original manual. I actually had it before I bought this machine. I once bought it along with some BUSMC #6 HM parts I needed for restoration. In the Video I use a 180 needle (metric) and some 207 cotton thread Just checked the stitch length - seems to be approx. 4 SPI at max. - a pretty good score for a vintage machine like this I agree but its really a pity

Seems the machine once had an accident, a few parts were slightly bent, a piece of the pulley was dented and finally fell of (still have that chip) and I had to reproduce the foot pressure thing as it was totally bent and thread was damaged - no way to rescue it. I have filled the worn screw heads with hard solder and cut some new slits. Unfortunately I damaged the decal - I remember the owner said the machine was used as decoration on the window sill and shop window for decades (machine has not sewn for the fast 50 years he said). Maybe the permanent sunlight and my efforts of cleaning did not play well together. Really sad but I hate looking at / working with dirty filthy machines. So thats the price I paid. Machine is sewing again but I need a new foot pressure spring. The old one was badly rusted and broke and the current one is too weak to sew leather with, for webbing its okay. Some more pictures:

if you have the chance post some good clear pictures from all sides and / or a video. Also look behind the face plate if everything is in order.

This it the original 345 bracket it belongs to LW member TROX - I hope Tor does not mind showing his picture here: And picture from the Pfaff sub class list There is also a DIY variant another LW member made but I prefer out of the box solutions when ever possible - however the DIY works well, see his YT video

I was hunting high and low for a synchronized binder bracket for my Pfaff 345 and finally found one more or less in front of my door. It is for the 145, 545, 1245 flat bed machines but actually fits for the cylinder bed 345 w/o problem. Only difference is that the original 345 bracket has a slanted panel towards the operator and this one has a flat panel but does not bother at all. I bought it at www.rimgm.de for 88€ + shipping - I know Kwokhing also has them but I only needed this particular bracket so I think it would have been more expensive to order it in HK since I don´t have to pay hight shipping and custom fees. This bracket is actually made in Italy and quality is quite good. Its made of 1/8 steel - so really sturdy! Comes with all parts you need for attaching it to the machine + a special screw driver thingy. It has a kind of quick release. The pivot stud can be left on the machine. Just wanted to share this since these Pfaff synchronized binder brackets seem to be hard to find on the web.

You probably have released the safety clutch or the timing belt broke. Maybe this video from LW member UWE will help you

I don´t know - this sooner or later simply happens. There is a point in life of a patcher machine (or any other machine) where it needs an adjustment f.i. when the pinions in the gearbox are are worn. Have you threaded the hook correctly? Maybe you can move the needle hold a bit to the right. Hard to tell from a distance whats wrong.

http://www.efka.net/index.php?id=12&L=1

I never have seen one of them live and I never thought I would ever find one of these in Germany. When I showed up at the seller I was almost a bit disappointed - I was expecting something of the size of an 45K. Ha ha - totally amiss. Though I don´t need it I could not resist. The very nice decal and nice hand painted pin striping pretty much hit my eye so I could not leave it alone. Figured it takes 214x1 / 328 needles - well at least it came with a 328 needle insert. Machine was not spinning so I soaked it in oil for a day. Meanwhile it is spinning again. Next is taking it apart for cleaning. Some pictures (oiled)

Dya wanna say that you can lift the foot of your LU562 6mm or... ? The LU562 and most if not all other Singer 111 type machines should be able to lift the foot approx 9.5mm - it´s just a question of how it is set up. Sailrite 111 is NOT a clone of the Singers 111. I think they just have "stolen" the 111 term to make the customers belief they have something Singer 111ish. BRMAX is right, it has an oil sump so the machine has an oil pump and most likely needs ceratain rpm to pump the oil the the oil spots. If I had to choose between a new Sailrite 111 and a used LU562 I would buy the LU562. EDIT: got it - you mean the stitch length (sorry) - well do you need and 8mm stitch length? I most of the time sew 5mm or below and rarely 6mm but of course depends on your project.

No words needed - you pretty much hit a dozen nails with 1 hammer

this can have several reasons - needle not correct insert, hook tip worn, hook timing, position of the needle holder...

WOW - nice cabinet! But can´t see the needle

Brmax - i had to google "Singer Heavy Duty" and the result put a little smile on my face - I guess you will smile too. Interesting what "Singer" considers as heavy duty nowadays - I guess it depends on the point of view - kind of.

Cobra 18 for sure can do the job (up to approx 20oz leather in total) but since you are in PA you may consider a dealer closer to you (may save shipping costs), I´d check with Keystone Sewing or Toledo Sewing Machine Co. Both have a very good reputation here. No one knows how your "stairs situation" is but a fully assembled machine is tough to get up or down stairs - you at least have to take off the head (easy to do). But when you consider shipping you may get the machine disassembled anyway. if you buy form a dealer close to you probably can pick it up by your self.

quite tiny picture but seems someone put an odd plate behind the stitch length lever. Remove the stitch length lever knob then remove the plate and put back on the the knob. Thats at least what I would try. The knob looks a bit odd too but cannot see details very well.

maybe this helps EDIT: sorry - I was to fast, have not checked the PDF 335 H3 Subclass Old C.pdf

Greetings to Denmark from Germany, 1st of all Germany is not the country for buying parts for vintage Singer sewing machines. You probably go nuts before you find something for the 2 machines. Germany is Pfaff and Adler country however parts for vintage machines are hard also to find also. I´m quite a bit vintage Singer crazy and I order 90% of the parts I need form College Sewing in the UK (UK is still a EU member so no Tax and custom fees). I think the Singer 7 is way way way way to heavy for your work. This thing is a monster and great for parachute webbing, sails, heavy tarpaulins and so on. So considering what you want to sew and if you have no other options I´d buy the Singer 132K6. I have a similar machine, a 133K3, its a cylinder arm machine and w/o the upper jump foot but it is the same class. You can easily find parts at College sewing. This machine is still manufactured, not by Singer but by many other companies in China. So the parts situation is excellent! https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/Singer132B,132K,133KSewingMachineParts Side Note: You probably have to replace the motor with a modern Servo Motor and probably add a speed reducer to get better control and more torque (if needed).

maybe this one helps you - he has more Chinese patcher videos