Constabulary

Even a mechanic can´t help you? I guess you are talking about top tension, right? You could probably install a heavier top tension spring. Or have you ever lowered the bottom tension? What thread size and what needle size are you using? Have you bought it from a dealer?

A while ago there was a post from someone who had military 153W or 111w parts but I´m not sure what he or she did with them. I would guess the military sold their old stocks at auctions and someone who had no clue what to do with singer parts tossed them away. Wouldn´t be the first time. But I´m sure some stock have survived somewhere in the US but the challenge would be finding them.

but when the tinted clear coat is rubbing off (maybe one day) it looks even uglier. Since the entire machine is not the nicest paint wise (no offense) I´d rather paint the entire machine in silver and put a new black decal on it. In my opinion the best compromise and it looks even better. I once did that when I restored my 29K71.

I´m also not using a knee lifter for me it is more logical to lift the foot by hand but thats just a personal preference. I once had one but it always was in the way - somehow. Then I installed a 2nd pedal as foot lifter - that was much better but since I´m using more than one machine on my machine table I removed it again.

They are not but they are quite nice that´s true. I like machine with a nice appearance. It´s the same as with cars I prefer driving in a clean car rather than in a filthy one. But I don´t have problems with some "signs of use". And so I rather like working with clean machines with nice appearance than with rusty, oil soaked, dusty machines. Thats why I have restored my DVSG / BUSMC #6 from the core. It would have worked as is but isn´t it much nicer when you have a nice looking and clean machine? My machines are by far not perfect (pictures often don´t tell the truth) but I always aim to that they look better than the day I picked them up.

Two sisters

My flat bed was black originally. Later machines had a matching colors on body and flat bed. Sames as with my 307G2 I have seen them with black flat bed and with matching color flat bed.

See above answer #2, #5 - the body still has the original paint + decals - I though it would be obvious.

This is what I have used: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_hammered_finish.jsp But it is by far not quick drying - it always takes at 2 days before you can touch the surface (my experience)

Check the stitch length adjuster - maybe the gib is gone or bent or worn and needs to be replaced or is it is placed on the wrong side (in picture 1 it is placed wrong). It´s parts #17 in picture 1. The gib belongs on the end with the thumb screw. The gib also is flattened on one side. The flattened part has to be up and facing towards the presser foot bar. The squared adjuster piece the thumbscrew goes in also has a flattened part and here the flattened parts had to be down. Hope you know what I mean. If this does not help I´d take the head apart and clean it. You never know what kind of dirt the machine has collected over the years. Always good to post some good detailed pictures of your machine so maybe someone sees if there is something wrong.

that's still the original - I only have painted the lid, face plate and flat bed. I just wanted to show the difference between original paint and Hammerite silver.

or short cutler rivets http://usaknifemaker.com/accessories/knife-accessories-101/sheaths/sheath-supplies/cutlers-rivets-in-brass-60-to-95-long.html

Maybe LW member UWE can give you some hints for taking good pictures

It´s quite cheap but very good in my opinion but I don´t think you´ll have this brand on your part of the world but who knows http://www.ebay.de/itm/3x-KWASNY-Spraila-Lackspray-Schwarz-Glanzend-400-ml-300005-/272119643735?hash=item3f5b983e57:g:E-EAAOSwMmBVzGRh more: http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/economy-range/spraila/spraila-paint-sprays/

Sorry but this picture really tells nothing and people still don´t know where you are located. Good luck with this sale.

You can see the difference but looks not too bad I´d s ay

Turned out quite nice could be better but I´m pleased

Good price for a large bobbin patcher, I´d say http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Singer-29K72-boot-leather-sewing-machine-/191796816645?hash=item2ca7fb2b05:g:l~gAAOSwGotWr9dv Needs some TLC but I´m sure it will turn out nice. Hope a UK based LW member will grab it

Kwokhing has sewing machine spray paints but sending them by Airmail is not allowed afaik (HAZMAT). http://www.kwokhing.com/sakura/paint_e.html The Janome paint looks close ATM I'm refurbishing a 212G141 and I have painted the top lid and face cover with silver hammerite - looks not too bad. Will post a picture later.

Hope you did not get me wrong - I seriously like your ideas. I was just thinking about the purpose. Anyway I´m looking forward to your next project and will follow this one as well!

nice idea again but my right hand on the hand wheel can do the same I think...

The Duerkopps (239, 241, 245) I have seen have a longer flat bed than the Singer 111 / Consew 225 clones. The Duerkopps were all ready to install a 2nd hook saddle for a double needle setup. The flat beds of the Duerkopps are more like the Singer 112 or similar. You can tell that by comparing the left cover plate - the Duerkopps factory wise have a longer left cover plates. BTW the Duerkopp 239 + 241 (triple feed) are using the same feet as the Singer 111 / Consew 225 clones. The machines have many similarities and even parts are interchangeable.

You can replace the thread oilier with a lower thread guide if you don´t need it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W-THREAD-GUIDE-LOWER-PART-224040-/300720931294?hash=item46045d41de:m:mQDFu8iuoO6yz9TOrG558sA

sorry - seems I got it wrong indeed lost in translation

My latest machine is a 212G141 double needle from 1959 (manual is dated 1959). The flat bed was by far not bad but the paint was chipping in some spots so I decided to remove it. The rest of the machine is quite nice so I only wanted to give the flat bed a new paint job. Sewing machine pait is quite tough so sanding it down is not the best idea. I figured the easiest way is using a ceran / glass scrapper. It took me maybe 5 minutes to remove all the paint. I removed the remaining small and hard to reach spots with a single edge razor blade. Advantage: it is fast, you can work quite accurate, no sanding marks, it is dustless, it is cheap and leaves a nice surface