Constabulary

I know - that also bothered me a bit that they have no other pulleys. I now have custom made 40mm pulleys on my two Jack motors but the guy who made them is out of country for a while so I have no access to more atm. I also wanted to order speed reducer pulleys but seems I have to shift it to the next year or find someone else who can make some. Shaft is 13mm, pulley needs grove for the key and it is secured with a nut. That how it goes in the sewing machine business - you do not always get what you want / need so you have to find other solutions. This is nothing that should drive you crazy.

I see! Problem is that my original Singer decals have the transfer paper on the top side so I think the setting solution could be an option. I also googled a bit and found an interesting post ins modeler forum here is an extract: I also got the hint that I should try acrylic / water based hardwood floor finish. I´ll order the solution set after I have tried the 2 above options as I have both available. Maybe I´ll ruin the decals but I just have paid few bucks for them. But I´ll keep 2 or 3 no matter what happens as this is something you´ll probably will never find again. But if it work I´ll repaint my machines (sooner or later) an put the original decals on them.

I have not worked on a 42-5 but I assume it is the needle / hook timing that is a bit off - as most of the times. Check if the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye. Also check if you have insert the needle correctly and if it is the correct needle at all. It takes 16x63 needles which are a bit shorter than 135x17 the Singer 111 type machines takes - if I remember correctly. If it is just the needle hook timing it can be done by adjusting (most likely lowering) the needle bar a little bit. BTW - seems your machine needs some oil - it ook quite dry!

I don´t know what is going on the control box but from my point into view it is an electronic device like any other else. And I think the manufacturer is aware of the "electrical situation" in different countries and that his product will be shipped worldwide. So far I have no problems - no smoke if coming of the box or the like. I guess the control box knows how to deal with alternating current.

I´m not an electrician but yellow / green is alway earth and the other 2 do not matter where you put them on. At least in Germany but if you don´t know how to do it ask an electrician.

It came with a UK plug but it´s easy to replace and the straight bore is 13mm.

I have not noticed your post earlier - sorry! What is kind of solution is it? Do you have more information?

If you can't find a new plate I´d try to heat the bend / cracked era with a blow torch (or similar) and hammer it back and hard solder the crack (not with a soldering iron). If you have no blow torch ask a plumber or black smith in your era. I have seen this on some flat bed Adler 4 needle plates, they even had replaced the broken off piece entirely with silver solder and drilled a new needle hole. So it is not impossible!

Be careful with the stuff from Recolor on the outside!!!! It is more aggressive than the regular paint thinner. Would like to see your machine so I´m looking forward to your new thread.

Got the prices - reducer pulley 50mm / 200mm is 50€, the 160mm shaft is 8€ and the 4 adjustment rings are 2€ each. This already includes shipping to my address. Shipping to Norway is extra. I assume weight will be below 1 Kg so registered shipping will be ~10€. So if you or someone else is interested please send me a PM within the next 3-4 days. BTW - I´m not sure if 160mm is enough, don´t forget the width of the flange in your leg...

So I guess you are from Germany too? I use no grease in my 29K patcher machine - I only use grease for capsuled gear boxes. Ballistol is in my opinion NOT a very good gun or machine oil. Cannot explain it in English - Ballistol zieht Wasser an und emulgiert. It is too expensive as well. Or just in German. Das Fett benutze ich nur in gekapselten Lagern aber nicht bei offenen Zahnrädern (die 29K hat keine gekapselten Lager). Ich benutze bei der Singer 29K nur Öl, weil im Fett Nähstaub usw. hängen bleiben und wenn man Öl verwendet wird Staub usw. bei regelmäßiger Ölung halt zum Teil wieder mit ausgespült. Das ist aber meine Sicht der Dinge - andere haben evtl. eine andere Meinung. But lets keep it in English as it is very international here

It´s nice to these these vintage machines alive! Your 335 REALLY tuned out nice - congratulations.

For internal cleaning (and external when I want to repaint a machine) I use this stuff and a paint brush - not sure how it is called in the US. http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Liter-Waschverdunnung-Verdunnung-Reiniger-von-Recolor-fur-Autolack-WV5000-/190889776705?pt=Autopflege_Wartung&hash=item2c71ead641 It washes down gummed oil + grease really fast. Forget brake cleaner - brake cleaner is a joke compared with the above stuff. For oiling sewing machines and everything else I use S-761 weapons oil. It has a NATO specification and is by far the best I ever used. We used it for our weapons like the MG3 machine gun, HK G36 rifle and HK P8 pistol in the German Army and since then this stuff is my all time favorite oil. I always say - what cleans and lubricates a machine gut can´t be bad for vintage sewing machines http://www.ebay.de/itm/ADDINOL-Waffenol-W18-1-Liter-vollsynthetisch-Korrosionsschutzol-1L-NATO-S-761-/251532836182?pt=Sch%C3%BCtzensport&hash=item3a90867d56 for capsuled gear boxes I use blue long life grease (not for open gears or gear boxes of patcher machines - for these I use the above S-761 oil ) http://www.ebay.de/itm/400g-Fett-Hochtemperatur-Lithium-Komplexfett-Farbe-Blau-Achsfett-KP-2-P-35-/291302135925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item43d2f5d875 But everybody is praising his favorites so you have to decide whether the above mentioned is good or not - I will not switch to anything else.

Jimi - I´m starting to hate you because of your machines - just like Singermania - I don´t like both of you ***just kidding*** Are you making shoes?

Darren is the owner of Able Sewing in Australia. He offers a lot of different needle plates on Ebay but I DO NO KNOW if they will fit for a 45K - contact him through Ebay or send him a PM. http://stores.ebay.com/ablesewing?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Or try to contact the member SINGERMANIA (also from Australia) - he has a HUUUUUUUGE collection of nice vintage sewing machines - maybe he can help you out.

AWESOME - seem there are some more "old cast iron lovers" out there

Jimi - I wish I had your skills + tools for making these things - very impressive! Because of the original decals I have - I have once posted them in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53584&p=342876 So I really think they are no longer usable. But maybe I just have not the right technique.

You can get decals on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2051337.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC2.A0.H0.Xsinger+decals&_nkw=singer+decals&_sacat=13956 I have used this set for My 133K http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Model-31-Commercial-Sewing-Machine-Restoration-Decals-/381061539029?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b909a4d5 But it appears to be a bit too bold and a bit too high but thats the closest you can get, I think. The ones for the bentwood case are the right size but due to the black border they appear too narrow when applied. I even have original decals form the Singer factory in Germany (disassembled by the Russians in 1945) but they are no longer working very well. So I do not use them. They are a bit flaky. @ Jimi haven´t you bought the flat bed attachment from me on Ebay - I remember I have sent mine to Spain. I still have the picture of your machines you sent me - I really like them! If you don´t mind please post them here. There are for sure some "old cast iron lovers" who like to see them.

Great Job! Very impressive! A Video would be cool! But I´ll stick with my servos anyway - no annoying sound when not running - but I´m honestly impressed!

Well, it´s not too old, they were built in the 1950´s - 1960´s as far as I know. I also have a 307G2 but mine fortunately is running like a dream but it´s true the belts are hard to find. What I can tell you is that the timing belt / arm shaft belt has 32 clamps (teeth) and the distance between the center of the claps is ~1.5 cm and the dictsance between the clamps (edge to edge) is ~10mm, so the total length is ~48cm. Maybe you can find one from another machine.

Catskin - if you are pointing on me you probably got me wrong. I don´t say the new (or Chinese made) machines are bad, most are for sure not bad. I just doubt that they are as long living as the machines form the 1930´s - 1950´s I even think that the tolerances are tighter than 50 years ago - but is it good or is it bad? It pretty much depends on the materials (f.i. forged iron or just cast iron) they have used. A friend of mine once told me that nowadays when you see a lot of chrome or nickel plated parts on a machine (not only sewing machines) it is pretty obvious that the parts are not forged. It most likely is cheap cast iron and the chrome / nickel plating just covers the poor casting and shall make it look like high quality. Often enough old simple technology is longer lasting than anything new build. But I thing the example with the Artisan feet that I gave is pretty obvious. To me it looks like the machine was just made to sell fast and to make profit. If they were made to last I think spare parts shouldn´t be a problem for a 10 or 20 years old machine.

You are welcome Steve - always glad when I can help!

What you mean with X - Y axis with step motor? I know what X and Y axis is but I cannot get the relation to a sewing machine but sounds interesting. Will it be for sewing WW boxes? The bobbin is totally different. The 133K and 132K have large rotary hooks and not an oscillating hooks like the 45K, Adler 20, Singer 7 and so forth. To give you and idea of the dimensions:

Yes, I like it very much! Next thing will be a "custom" harness foot with short heel I´m planing to make as I sometimes have to sew box tacks close to heavy hardware. Similar to this one: VanRhodes - How is your project going?

small update. I finally have installed a new feed dog as I had some issues with inconstant stitches because of worn off teeth. For the records and those who might care: The original feed dog that came with the 133K3 has part # 98402 I actually found one but it would have cost me £58.05 + shipping (thats about $90 + shipping) so I have ordered a feed dog with parts # 97625 which was just £5. It actually fits BUT the tooth part of the # 97625 is about 2mm flatter. I could probably lift the feeding mechanism but I don´t want to mess with the timing so I just put 2mm Delrin under the new feed dog and grind down the needle plate on the inside a little bit - voila - it works perfect. Nice stitching - perfect feeding - I´m very pleased! Small video: