Constabulary

201 is a Singer domestic sewing machine

with a button hole attachment like YS Star 4455 or FAMOUS or Singer 121795 and the like. I just bought one myself the other day (not received yet).

Check the feet I have linked above - they have a 12mm wide slit. But I received them in chrome instead of black but I really like the quality. Crazy cheap price! I also have a Singer 307G2 - extremely smooth running machine. And it can use the needle plates and feed dogs of the above mentioned Singer models too - it has 2 sets of screw holes for needle plate - don´t ask me why its not mentioned in the manual. I like a lot better that the 138 (had one many years ago). I never have used a Singer 457 and my 143w just set up for 8mm ZZ but I still have to play with the ZZ timing a bit. The 307G2 also has the same hook as my107w and 143w. While looking for wide ZZ plates for my 143 I came across this set - it pretty much looks as if it could fit the 138 or your 114 - or not? Maybe worth trying. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144017485507

Foot bar diameter is 8.7mm. Distance between foot bar and needle bar is 14.8mm. Hope this helps.

Yes, the Dürkopp 252 is using the typical Singer industrial feet. I will check the diameter and foot bar - needle bar distance on my 107w / 143w later so you can compare if it is the same on the 114. If so a Singer 111w foot bar should work. If it was a Singer based machine you could even use 20U, 107w, 143w and 457 needle plate, feed dogs and all the feet. But Pfaff always was / is a bit special and therefore often the part prices are sky high. The Pfaffs are more comfortable but the availability off accessories makes Singer my favorite brand. Just recently I bought 2 19mm wide feet for a bargain (made in China bu excellent quality). I want to customize them for sewing ZZ tacks. https://www.ebay.de/itm/402635855188 But let me guess - Pfaff 138 feed dogs and needle plate could work for your machine. And without knowing I think the 138 feet could fit as well.

Not really - you find them sometimes but they are not wide spread. Another very equivalent is the Durkopp 252. I have a German langue 252 manual if that helps (not much I guess).

Do you have a link to that video? Screw in type needle holder is the most common nowadays. Well I do not know your needle bar. Is the needle holder replaceable - probably? If yes maybe you can just replace the needle holder and you are done. But I don´t know your machine... If not then the NB diameter also matters. The timing marks do not work when you install the NB in a foreign machine but that does not really matter. Well, a double needle machine is a different story. I have single needle machine and used a needle bar from a Dürkopp machine which I had in my spare parts box and because it was shorter than the OEM NB I had to install a longer NB Guide. I´m not sure if you want to go that way. It may require drilling out the casting if you cannot find a NB guide with the correct length and diameter. If I was in your position and cannot replace the needle holder then I would look for a Singer 212 needle bar. I´m not sure maybe there is a double needle bar which is longer but I don´t know so my choice would be a Singer 212 NB. Then you need a needle holder with the correct needle distance that matches your needle plate. Needle bar: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153445408972 For the needle holder you most likely have to buy a whole 212 gauge get with correct needle distance - not sure what your needle distance is https://www.ebay.com/itm/142635430976

What model re you talking about? Buying a from a dealer with good reputation can be the key. Is the used one from a private seller? Even new machines from a dealer can cause issues - you never know until things go wrong. It depends on how well the machine is serviced and / or set up to your requirements. I have zero new machines all my machines are vintage and refurbished (more or less). My oldest is from the 1920´s - 1930´s - no problems.

That's why I upgraded my 51w with a new needle bar so it can use 135x17 needles or generally common needles with a 2mm shaft. Almost all of my machines I have set up to 135x17 / 135x16 needles so I don´t have to stock different needle of all kind and sizes. Makes sewing life a bit easier

Cooool - love it! I hope you don´t overdo it with decals. You sometimes see machines where people add decals where there weren't some ex factory. IMO less is more. But it's of course a personal choice.

as far as I recall they are the same as for the Singer 111 feed dog - but I´m not 100% sure. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/200106-feed-dog-screw-singer-111w.html Maybe worth checking with College Sewing anyway.

Maybe this file will help you. Thats at least what I have... Adjustment Pfaff 138.pdf EDIT: Just noticed you are from Germany so so check this one SM_PFAFF+138-130-230-238-einstellanleitung.pdf

curved inward sounds like the end for the "screw in" stitch length adjuster (not sure if the 111w155 once came with this feature) - or - for the adjustment screw for positioning the hand wheel on the top shaft - or not? So this end would be the end for the hand wheel. Or do I get you wrong?

Not OEM JUKI but for the price I mean better than having none. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000423125541.html

Our member @DanishMan probably has something. He has refurbished several industrial triple feed machines if I recall correctly and maybe he has a spare machine he would part with.

They wok but may need some modification. Make sure you buy genuine JUKI or Seiko parts from a reliable dealer and from Ebay. The Durkopp 241 / 239 share a lot of parts with the Singer 111 and similar Singer 111 based machines. There were tension units with a manual tension release push lever to the right side of the tension unit . These Tension units did not need the release slider.

Needle hook timing values are the same as for the Singer 111 - partially you can use a Singer 111 manual for this machine thought they have a different stitch length adjuster and so forth but they share a lot of parts which are interchangeable. You do not need the oil tray. Singer and Dürkopp are using the exact same hook saddle and both Co´s had this hook oil tray in their machines but both did it away one day. Just oil the hook regularly and nothing will happen. You can use Singer 111 hooks in your machine. But since you have an original Dürkopp hook you an just switch out the top part and leave the hook shaft in place. Take out the bobbin case and you will find a screw in the center of the hook, remove the screw and you can separate hook and hook shaft (if not gummed with old oil). You can buy new hooks dirt cheap for approx 10 - 15 bucks I´m very confident this hook will work: https://www.ebay.de/itm/254104332249 But you probably have to adjust the hook saddle a bit sideways. I bought a few of these hooks (GEH 810 / GEH 820) when I restored my 51w. They fit but hook tip is a bit longer but cannot adjust the hook sideways but I figured I can use them in my 111G156 with a Dürkopp hook shaft. Difference is the 820 has a build in needle deflector and the 810 needs a separate deflector (same as on your Dürkopp hook). Feed forks are the same as for the Singer 111 and similar models. I installed one in a friends 239 a while ago. Singer parts number is 224052 (Juki & Seiko are using them as well) This thread may be useful for you: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77946-singer-111w155-feed-lifting-cam-slop/

Some wear parts are critical (gearbox pinion + rack f.i.) - you may find them with some luck, time an money. Worst thing is you cannot re time the needle & hook on this model (critical when pinions and rack are worn down). IMO the early 29´s are really bottom like patchers. You can get better / later model patcher machines for that money but of course depends on your market and how badly you want / need a patcher. If the rack and pinions are worn, the needle plate is shot and the hook is poor and you have to replace / rework the bell crank lever (because of short stitches) and maybe the foot and other bits (like the 4 rollers which can be worn / have a flat side / are rusted in place) you will end up investing 150 - 250 (remember - certain wear parts are obsolete) + tinkering (good when have a hubby or can do it on your own). This is of course a worst case scenario but you cannot foresee how good or bad a 110 years old patcher is and if it has probably been rebuild or not. The presence or condition of decals is often a sign for the degree of wear. It of course tells not the whole story but decals are often a good indicator. If it is sewing properly and can make 4mm long stitches (5mm is max ex factory) then why not but I would not pay that kind of money for a 110 years old patcher in unknown condition. Maybe half the price. But again depends on your market and... You always can make something out of nothing but there are always 2 sides of the coin. If you want to test it hand crank it - look for a manual and read it, buy needles are thread (#69) and check how it performs. EDIT: Some years ago I refurbished a similar model. It was a fun project for the cold days...

TORR most likely is the manufacturer TORRINGTON NM 125 is the metric size for approx US size 20. I assume the heavier spring is because they used it as 1 needle machine. Not really an issue - change the spring if it does not work for you. Since you are here now - this is the list with the serial number once provided by Gregg from Keystone Sewing (RIP). Not everything has to be shared in FB groups IMO.

You can but most regular treadle bases have larger fly wheels than the 29K base so it will make the machine sew faster.

Your decision of course. I would not hesitate buying a Typical machine if I would need a machine of this class. Some information on Typical. https://www.vetrontypical-europe.com/ Maybe (don´t know) Typical could be even be a better quality than some other brands. I understand that distance to a dealer and drop shipping can be an issue but you live where you live and sometimes you have to bite the bullet. Regarding support - check the leather sewing machine section here - you get a lot of "non dealer support" here no matter the brand. If a LW member here has technical knowledge then he usually shares what he knows and especially LW member UWE "dives deep into it" to help folks with their machines. Just recently there are some threads on 341 / 1341 machines (which basically is the Cobra 26). https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95196-set-up-of-juki-ls-1341-type-machine/ But again - your decision. If it was me I would buy it. EDIT: scroll down here to USA - Looks like Atlanta Attachment in GA is supporting Typical machines. https://www.vetrontypical-europe.com/salespartner-vetrontypical

Agree with the above. What you can do is looking for pictures of work space you like and try to recreate them with what you have in your own shop >> product, tools, machines, needles, thread, leather, odds & ends...

Took me only a few minutes to find something similar to the Cobra 26 https://unisew.com/used-machines-and-equipment/used-sewing-machines/walking-foot/typical-tw3-341/ Seems to be in good shape. Have a Tandy in your area? They are also selling the Cobra 26: https://tandyleather.com/collections/machines/products/cobra-class-26

Wondering why sewing machine dealer who market certain motors do not include a translation of the manual or write their own. It may take a few hours to translate them / put together a manual but would save a lot of trouble I´d say. That for sure would bring them a good feedback for their motors and they probably would sell more when customers recommend their motors.

@sewingoptimizer this is affiliate marketing - easy to detect. https://sewingoptimizer.com/best-sewing-table-reviews/ Look who else Martha Williams can be: maybe you recognize one or another face