gottaknow

Hey Ole South. To answer your leather belt question, yes you can get larger leather belting. I buy 5/16" for several of my specialty machines in the factory. I get mine from Universal Sewing Supply or DSI Sunbrand. Regards, Eric

Looks better! I agree with Wiz and think you should try a smaller needle. If your needle hole is too big, your tension will be hard to keep constant. I think it will help your corners too. Your last effort is a nice improvement though. Regards, Eric

It's weird reading through a thread and coming to a video, (not remembering having made the video yourself) and then hearing your own voice. Glad it was of some use. It takes some time to become familiar with your machine. Have fun! Regards. Eric

Back in my early days of being a mechanic, I knew an old timer that had worked for Singer back in the 50's. He explained that the Singers were so well engineered and constructed, that replacement machines were seldom sold. They had to retain sales and market share by selling original Singer parts, including proprietary screws. I still have old invoices from Singer that date back to the 60's. I was a kid back then, but the guy I apprenticed under starting in 1980 kept extensive records, which I've kept over the years. The company I started with (Pacific Trail Sportswear) had 7 factories at one time, being the nations largest producer of down outerwear. Many of those machines are still in use today. I can remember buying all of our Singer parts directly from them. Frankly, the aftermarket parts suck. Even a big company like Juki, (The king of cloning Singers) will never enjoy the longevity of the Singers. I should say that a new imported machine will usually serve a home hobbyist or small business just fine with proper care for many years. Especially if you buy factory parts when at all possible. My Chinese Juki's (double needle, needle feed lockstitches) will last about 5-7 years in the factory. We run these machine wide open, 40 hours a week. I'm still doing that with Singers from the 60's and they'll likely outlive me. There's just no comparison. My best advice is to always buy replacement parts from a dealer selling original parts. Regards, Eric

Glad you got your screws coming catskin. If I could just add a bit of sage advice about sewing machine screws, it may save someone trouble down the road. I'm currently apprenticing two mechanics. One has about 18 months behind him and the other is just starting. I have known many mechanics over the years, and we all try to get really resourceful and creative. I spend a great deal of time teaching my mechanics how to tighten screws. It begins with having the correct screw as a replacement. A common mis-step is to try and get harder screws that don't break, or will last longer. It just doesn't work long term. A replacement screw that is harder than the threaded hole becomes a tap. It will wear out the threads of a presser bar or needle bar, or something else that is much harder to deal with if it strips. As catskin discovered, the broken screw came out easy for him once the pressure was relieved. I would rather replace screws all day long than replace presser bars or needle bars. I make my guys practice tightening throat plate screws until they can match my torque. There are of course non-stress screws like misc.cover plates and such that you can get your MacGyver on with. Once you own a machine for a while, you'll learn which parts you should keep on hand. Have fun! Regards, Eric

I thought that looked goofy Gregg. I then looked at the pic of the clutch, and it's still engaged. I'm thinking that instead of re-engaging the clutch, the basket retainer popped back into place. I've seen that happen. Regards, Eric

Nice job figuring it out! Over the years, the list of things I've removed under a verticle hook include broken needles, dropped throat plate screws, candy, and a diamond out of an operators ring. The only reason I figured that out, was because she pointed to the hook area to show me what was stuck and I noticed the stone missing from her ring. That one I removed very carefully! Regards, Eric

Glad the information was helpful Bill. As for that little tab on your check spring unit, Constabulary is correct, try giving it a bit more room with a screwdriver, followed with a piece of 400 grit cloth folded in half to take care of any sharp spots. From what I can see of your machine, it looks to be in good shape! Pcox is right about that protrusion on the top of your machine. Here's a pic of a newer 211 with the original light unit so you can see what it looked like. Good design, horrible light. The light output from the motor is just 6.3 volts and used a 17w bulb. Not much light really. Regards, Eric

Something else to ponder. All of those old machines, though well made, still had quirks, design errors etc. At some point in that machines lifespan, a good mechanic got a hold of it and as a result, it's still sewing strong. The absolute darkest years for industrials was after the apparel companies began leaving the country. Many of those companies made machines in the US. Because we couldn't compete with their low labor dollars, the machine companies began to develop machines that were meant to cut sewing time for a given job. Needle positioner systems were the new rage starting in the late 60's. Singer made a 2281 with a top shaft mount motor and positioning system all in one. Every function was controlled with a huge array of circuit boards in a huge box under the machine. The underbed trimmers on these machines were a nightmare. Every single one we bought had to be modified and still they sucked. In the early 80's, Union Special made a needle feed lockstitch machine with a needle positioner, foot lift (air) and underbed trimmer. They sewed really well, but again, the knife system sucked. I guess my point is this. Sewing machines evolve every day. Yes, the early machinists were amazing. So is a cnc machine. The new Juki 9010-SH needle feed lockstitch will out sew a Singer 211 walking foot machine. We are using more of those in our luggage division, replacing triple feed machines. I've been a sewing machine mechanic for 34 years. Apprenticing a new mechanic takes 5 years minimum, in a factory, 40 hrs/wk. I do love my old machines I still have in service. I have a Reece 101 keyhole buttonhole machine (think Levi's) that has 400,000,000 stitches sewn. (has a counter). Made in the USA in 1962. It will soon become a backup machine to a new Reece buttonhole now made overseas. We'll see. Regards, Eric

Those are kinda goofy motors. I have extended the arm on the Enduros to obtain a longer travel for your pedal. It really doesn't take much to make a difference. As for the pitmann rods, don't be afraid to bend them to achieve better angles. This isn't a new problem at all, I first encountered this in 1983 with the Variostop motors with a rather large control box under it. For machine stands that were lowered for short operators, it wasn't uncommon to have 6" to make a smooth connection and correct angles. I noticed in your picture, you have another notch towards the operator side of the machine. It will feel better to you if you move that spring into that notch. I've also gotten heavier springs. The biggest improvement you'll notice is to lengthen the control arm and bend your pittman rods as needed. Regards, Eric

Industrial sewing machines are designed to sew within their intended range of threads, needles, thickness of material, etc. When you're hobby sewing or sewing very limited volume, you can certainly "fudge" many settings to exceed the designed specs. Folks that do a fair amount of home sewing actually get quite good at making these adjustments. For anyone to say "machine a" will only do this, and "machine b" will only do that is silly. Machines overlap their specs to some degree. However, to obtain the highest quality and the most speed needed in a factory setting, you have to pay close attention to what a given machine is designed to do. Using the wrong machine for the wrong task in a factory costs money. Better to have a wider array of machines that do things very well. My observation over the years has been that when folks try and take their hobby to the next level, they neglect the fact that there are better machines for certain things and additional machines are needed. A very common result of not getting the correct equipment is that the machine you have may get "adjusted to death". I don't know how many times I've seen this happen. The individual then wants to blame the machine. I would never use the same machine to sew 2 layers of garment leather and then try and use the same machine to sew 4 layers of heavy bridle leather. I certainly understand the financial limitations of owning an ideal machine for everything. I have that luxury in the factory, though at times it's hard to get the bean counters to understand it. I'm fortunate in that the company I work for completely trusts my judgment when it comes to purchasing machines. I have machines from the 50's that I use everyday and ones that I bought last week. I love the old machines and I love the new machines. There simply isn't one sewing machine that will do everything. Regards, Eric

One of our sponsors here might have access to them. I buy from Universal Sewing Supply. They have an online catalog. Even with a servo motor, I prefer a separate air switch. Regards, Eric

You're welcome my friend. This adjustment on verticle hook machines is often misunderstood. On your 111 and 211's, and most of the clones, you need to also add a drop of oil where the hook contacts the bobbin basket. In the factory, because these machine were run at high speed, they require oiling ever two bobbins. It will really smooth out a machine. Regards, Eric

Sounds like you need to adjust your bobbin case latch opener. If you observe your machine with some fabric in but not covering your hook, turn the machine by hand and watch the hook pick up the needle thread, travel over and around the bobbin basket, and look for a flat curved piece that contacts the bobbin case. It's function is to rotate the bobbin basket ccw ever so slightly to allow the needle thread to pass between the notch in the bottom of the throat plate and the small tab that sits in that notch. The latch opener must give your needle thread enough room to pass cleanly and set the stitch. If the adjustment is off, you'll hear the bobbin basket chatter. It will also wear out your throat plate. I'm attaching a picture from a 211 which should help you check this setting. Regards, Eric

A word from the wise. The aftermarket pittman rod air switches aren't that great. I would use a foot pedal air switch which would go right where the chain lift pedal is/was. That way you're not going to hit your footlift accidently while moving your treadle back to the brake/neutral position and you don't loose any positive feel between your treadle and your motor. On a flatbed, I prefer the knee lift air switch. Works like an old school knee lift, but with an air switch. Regards, Eric

I do keep up on my reading here daily, but my time at the moment is scarce. Since going to work for Filson, I have been apprenticing a full time mechanic and adding additional equipment like crazy. I'm loving it though. I'm hoping to get more time to post this winter, I still love this forum! My favorite needle feed machine for light to medium weight goods is the Singer 281-22. They are readily available used for just a few hundred dollars and with a servo retrofit, well worth it. We still use these 60's era workhorses in the factory. Make sure if you find a 281, it's subclass is 22. The other 281's are drop feed. They will handle a very wide variety of materials that don't require a walking foot machine. Our newer needle feeds are the Juki 5410's. I've recently ordered 10 more of the Juki 9000 series heavy needle feeds for sewing heavy wool. And thanks for the kind words. Regards, Eric

The main thing to note on both of these models is they are drop-feed machines. With a drop feed machine, only the feed dogs move the fabric. The needle simply moves up and down. A needle-feed machines needle bar moves in unison with the feed dogs, giving a more positive feed. There are plenty of uses in a factory and other sewing tasks for a drop feed machine. We don't use them much because a needle feed offers a lot more versatility in a factory setting where the machine is used on multiple styles and operations. Drop feed machines will normally cost less than a needle feed. I personally like a drop feed machine on very flimsy materials. Nylon, rayon, polyester, mesh, most knits. With a very fine tooth feed dog and a Teflon foot, I can get silk to sew flat as a pancake. The tension units can also be run very light. Regards, Eric

I'm assuming your machine came with a leather point needle, which shouldn't be used on your canvas duck. It will needle cut, in other words damage your fabric. You need a sharp point needle which will slip between the fibers without doing a lot of cutting damage. Most needle manufacturers designate the needle having an "R" point or an "RG" point which is actually a very thin ball point. Groz Beckert is fazing out the "R" point in favor of the "RG". Your needle size should be good. Regards, Eric

Union Special used to sell a white grease for their Amco clutch motors. It's honestly just white lithium grease. I use just a touch and rub it well into the cork, then wipe off the excess with a rag. Makes the clutch action very smooth assuming everything else is adjusted good. The older cork from the Amco motor and the very dense original Singer motors lasts a long time, even without grease. The imported cork is very spongy and using grease is a must. Regards, Eric

We still use plenty of clutch motors in the factory. If you sew 40 hours a week on one, you get really good at speed control. The clutches are meant to slip and will still last a long time. I use a special clutch grease, it doesn't take much and prolongs the life of the clutch. Most of our overlock machines have at least 3.5" - 4" pulleys on them. For leather work, I'd still prefer a servo motor. For garment sewing, it makes little difference. Regards, Eric

Not one of Singers more shining moments. I still have a few of these in storage. Regards, Eric

Thanks for the info Troy. You never know when something like that will be useful for somebody else. I see Boss issues arise from time to time here. Regards, Eric

I don't order machines except through US dealers. I don't have time to fuss with all the import stuff. My time is extremely valuable when it comes to sewing machines. The dealers I buy from always give me a fair price, and I can't remember the last time I questioned a price. My free time is scarce, and that's why if I were ever to by a new leather machine, I'd want it set and ready to go and would gladly pay for it, though I could do it myself. I repair machines 40 hours a week, so in my spare time I'd rather be sewing. Whatever you decide, I really hope it works out for you. To answer another question, when I do freelance work I charge $75/hr with a 1 hour minimum. If I lived in NY, I'd probably charge more. Another thing to keep in mind if you need to hire a mechanic. Make sure they are capable of working on your machine. Not all mechanics are familiar with all styles. Regards, Eric

Come on Wiz, it's only page 3! Hey korokan, I trust that you're taking all the advice with the spirit it's being given. Believe me, none of the guys here have any kind of a motive other than to help and educate you about making a mistake you may regret. This entire site(not just this forum), is geared to people helping others enjoy our leatherwork. Some here have been making a living at it for a long time. A US based dealer provides a service. Providing services costs money. I have purchased hundreds of machines made all over the world, including the US. Even the machines made in the US had issues that had to be fixed after the production. Every time I priced a machine, I got two quotes. 1) Just the machine and all it's stuff delivered to my door. 2)Machine set up, sewn off on my material and thread, all add-on mounted and tested, delivered to my door. I could then weigh the cost of my time to do it, or my dealer. Often I'd just have them send it (or multiples) direct to me. But there have been plenty of times I didn't have time to do the set-ups and I gladly pay for it, knowing that I'm paying for a service. You are certainly free to choose. We all have different personalities here in the machine forum. I enjoy them all, and have learned a great deal, just by interacting. Now, if I apply my own logic, if I was spending my personal money on a machine to do leather work, I would pay their price to have it sewn off the way I want. Those that know my background may be surprised by that, but I honestly would. Please enjoy your new machine and have fun! Regards, Eric

The one we have is made by Atom. I leave it on a heavy custom pallet so we can move it around when needed. We are currently using it to cut zipper slots in Lycra for fused zippers. Amazing light touch it has when adjusted properly. Our shop in Seattle has 4 of them in our luggage factory that we use for leather. Regards, Eric