immiketoo

I would use some leather thonging to hold it in place, Use friction fit holes to keep it tight.

I use neatsfoot oil to help set the dye after airbrushing. It helps the pigment set deeper into the leather and makes those nasty rub offs go away. I also oil between coats if I'm doing a fade.

I use a wing divider to mark my double border lines. Its FAR easier to control your lines and you can go around complex corners. Next, I will decide how much detail I want in the border and cut and carve if warranted. You can use them as scored lines as well if you want a simpler look. Once you cut your shape, bevel the edge, moisten your leather and do all the straight lines first, leaving the corners until last. Connect your corners and then lightly cut with a swivel knife. Bevel and tool as desired. If you want a video of this process, I'm happy to make one for you.

Both Rickert Werkzeuge and Der Ledermacher in Germany carry fiebings and a wide variety of other products. Both have comprehensive websites as well. Check them out. I order from Greece all the time.

I actually agree with this 100% I rarely use a groover anymore, but when I do, its nice to have one that works.

Crimson looks like a near exact copy of Douglas. I have the Douglas, and several others. It's by FAR the easiest to use and get consistent lines. Buy the different sized tips, or just get the small one. There;s not a lot of call for stitching with rope Best money I've spent on a groover, and I have a Danny Marlin as well.

Thanks everyone!

Cool.

Thank you, but why sigh?

I can't do it... Must make statement! Thank you! I see you're in Amsterdam. Will you go to the ELWATS show in October?

Thanks, Tom! I should probably know that! Thank you, wish I could show you, but I don't have it. HK P30L Have to have good edges. They'll be better today. Thanks Fred! I ordered from a company in CA since Greece doesn't have a lot of this stuff on the island. Thanks, Jack! Wish I had a regular hardware store here!

They are a washer and a chamfered screw. No idea what the technical name is for them, sorry. Thank you. Funny you mention that, there is a video on my website, www.learnleather.com, but I'll tell you the secret. Cut the final shape with a sharp knife as opposed to trying to line up the pieces. Nothing is smoother than a freshly cut edge. Then bevel with slightly moist leather. After that, its just dye, burnish wax and sand. Repeat as necessary..

Thanks double D!

Edges still need work, but I wanted to catch the light for a pic. They'll be smoother when I'm done. Thank you. I dye after I stitch in most cases so if there are any areas that need touch up they get attention during the dye process. If I do happen to stitch after color, I poke tiny holes, so the stitching takes up the opening. If I have to touch up afterward, I do it with a small paint brush.

Middle pic shows the blade halfway out of the sheath. The design is based off of artwork found on pottery from ancient Greece, but there is some debate on the materials that would have been used. I had a little creative freedom in the process.

A sheath I made for a Greek re-enactment company recently.

Nice work, man.

The dye technique is something I learned from Freddie Matara in this class, “Hand applied sunburst fade.” This is was my first attempt at it, and it’s not nearly as good as his, but the overall affect is pleasing. The circle is part of the filler tool. It’s a bit tricky to line up and it really shows if you miss hit the stamp, but looks awesome when you get it right.

Shoot. Ritza. Stupid auto correct.

Thanks, man. Rita .6 mm thread and a combo of a Jueschke border stamp and a Barry King filler tool. Thanks, guys. Have to carry coffee for me and Natalie from the shop on my motorcycle. This fits the bill nicely.

Keith, my pleasure. Make sure you post it for all to see.

It was an added bonus! It’s 5 oz with a 4 oz liner. I’d probably build a gusset on the pocketbacause there’s not a lot of room between the cups.

I use it all the time!

LOL! Well shit.