immiketoo

Hopefully soon, Bob. We shall see.

The problem is that the color is transparent and it allows the color of the leather to show. Its combining with the blue to create blue with brown in it, thus darkening it. The only real way to get that light color you want is to us nearly white leather or use acrylic paint. Some aniline dyes are more vibrant, but they're hard to get in the states due to the toxicity.

I am a huge proponent of trade shows, especially as they relate to leather work. You can meet some amazing people, see leatherwork that will blow your mind and of course, you can take classes. Taking a class from someone live is by far the best way to learn at a rapid pace, learn something you may never have picked up on your own and forge friendships along the way. This year, ELWATS has some seriously excellent instructors and I'd invite you to check out the list of classes. If you see something you're interested in, why not come to the show ant take a class. Some of these are filling quickly so if you want to come, start planning now. Here is a time-lapse of the class I'll be teaching. The class will cover facial features, tooling techniques and embossing with a hybrid plug. I'd love to see you there. http://leathercraftersjournal.com/store/product.cfm?product=1232 popeye.mp4

Not sure how I missed this thread, but thanks for the mention @Rockoboy! There are so many people that have inspired me over the years, its difficult to mention them all, but I find inspiration in unusual places. Some of my main mentors have been Bob Beard, Peter Main and Serge Volken, but early on, guys like TwinOaks, Katsass and JLS were inspiring. Heck, those guys are still inspiring if for different reasons than when I originally started. One thing I find continuous inspiration from is noobs who have the fire and the same insatiable thirst for knowledge that I have. Especially those who take what they learn and do something with it right away. It's good to see someone get it and move forward. So, to all of you, keep it up!

Nylon webbing of the sort used in upholstery would probably do the trick. Or any other synthetic material that doesn't stretch?

Those are for creating borders. They can be handy, but they can be a bitch to run. There are easier and more reliable ways to create borders, but if the price is right, go for it. You might like them!

The only water proof finish are any of the lacquer products. And even then, water can still leech in through the edges. Aniline dyes have the most vivid colors in my experience.

Fantastic work!

LOL... why haven't I thought of that before!

@Johanna I wasn't sure to put this here or in leather history, but here goes! As you probably know, Johanna is the boss here at leatherworker.net, and today is her birthday. I know that what she has created here has changed the lives of many people, myself included. Without her and this website, I wouldn't be where I am today, and I mean that both literally and figuratively. Please chime in on how much the forum means to you and wish her a happy day! Thank you Johanna and I hope you have a lovely day, doing whatever it is you want to do. Happy birthday! Mike

That's ok. You guys can use whatever works for you. Having terrible luck with the sponge technique, Peter Main suggested I try a fine mist sprayer. I can control moisture far better with a bottle. Since then, I haven't had any issues with too much moisture. I agree with you about the sopping wet sponge, though. Most people don't realize that too much water causes a ton of problems.

I would recommend against using a sponge, at least for re-wettin leather in the middle of a project. Initially its fine, but when adding moisture, a sponge has the tendency to allow too much into the cuts and then causes those cuts to open up and show the core. I recommend getting a spray bottle for adding water to leather.

I know a LOT of people who do leather and none of them sharpen their stamps, ever. Link me on the video and I'll try and decipher for you.

Don't use bellies for straps. Too stretchy. I use backs for belts and straps. Minimum 6 oz unless its for something really lightweight. I don't like the look of anything too thin though.

Ok cool. Here’s where we’re going with this.

You'll have trouble with the draw of the pistol from that due to it sitting too deeply in the holster. You should be able to get your whole hand on the weapon in a combat grip, meaning no adjustment to grip from draw to presentation.

Here is a brief picture tutorial I did for a friend about how to bevel and lift carved leaves. Steps: 1. Cut 2. swivel bevel 3. Steep checkered bevel 4. Checkered matting and lift. I use pro lifters. 5. Background 6. Enhance lifts with modeling spoon 7. Make certain lifts flow into non-lifted parts 8. Using a modeling spoon, I begin creating the negative impressions and smoothing out the lines from the craftaid. If you'd like me to do the rest of the tutorial, let me know and I'd be happy to oblige. This was only for beveling, so I didn't go into the rest.

@Riem, You have exactly the experience needed to weigh in on this topic. Great reply.

Danny stopped making leather knives, but they are still available for sale privately.

I'll echo the others, and say that the Tandy knife is a waste of money. In fact, Tandy got upset that I said that once on FB, but its true. That knife is very poor quality and doesn't cut well at all. Old companies like W. Rose and Osborne made excellent knives and they are available from folks like Bruce Johnson. He will make sure your knife is sharp and it good condition. All I use are my Knipshield knives. I bought my first one in 2013 and have collected quite a few since then. The difference between them and anything else is astounding. Worth every penny. Terry is out on an injury right now, but he'll be back soon.

Then it should work just fine. Thin leather will teach you delicate stitching, for sure!

Typically, anything over 1mm thick is too thick for interiors. You might be able to split it down to the right thickness, depending on what you have, but its hard to say. Choosing the proper leather for projects goes a LONG way in making them look good. Welcome to the madness!

Its not just the pyramids. The Acropolis in Athens, Greece has been knocked down in numerous battles and put back together, and its only in the last 30 years that they realized that no two pieces of the columns are identical. More than that, each piece has exactly one place it fits, and they have no idea how it was done. Also, the structure eliminates parallax in that it looks straight and square from any vantage point, while in actuality it is anything but. There were great minds in humanity, and I fear there aren't any left alive, with the exception of a few hidden away from society.

Im still in the prologue, but its fascinating. It explains a lot of why I am the way I am. Can't wait to get to the drawing part!