immiketoo

No.

Sooooo fluffy!!!!

Pretty sure you can download those from Tandy as well.

Thank you!

Terry, The surest way to resist are the products you listed. I just don't like the look of them. Ive been using Bee Natural for about 5 years now and I've NEVER had it bleed through. I want to try some of their other products as well.

Never heard of them. Maybe I'll take a look too.

Best thing you can do is buy these books. The Art of Making Cases Vol. 1-3 and the Art of Hand Stitching, all from Tandy and All by Al Stohlman. They are comprehensive and will feel you all you need to know about making boxes. I refer to mine all the time.

We order from Die Ledermacher or Rickert. Shipping to Greece sucks, but if you want it, you have to pay. DHL standard isn't horrible. https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de http://www.ledermacher.de

Yes, but GEL is GEL! Hence my confusion. The Fibbing's didn't come in until later

This is a topic that comes up often. Most makers don't charge nearly enough for the their work, and this is a source of much contention from folks at the top of the game. They feel that craft level prices devalue pro level work. There's some truth in that as we are a digital world and it's easy to compare one source to another. However, you have to be honest with yourself because if the skill isnt there charging top dollar is inappropriate and self defeating. When I started, I could see good work even though I couldn't do it, and I charged for materials and a little bit for my time. As my skill, and ddemand for my products has increased, so have my prices. Just make sure you enever take a loss and you'll be fine.

Ah HA! It's in the title. Antique gel. Not the same as gel antique I guess. I knew I wasn't crazy!

My mistake. I could ha sworn I read gel antique. That stuff penetrates most finishes unless you apply so many coats that it looks shiny and plasticky. I've never had a problem with RTC and past antique.

Your best option is to switch to Fiebing's paste antique. I never combine a water based resist with a water based antique. My go to combo is Bee Natural RTC and Paste antique. It never penetrates the resist and you only have to wait 10-15 minutes. None of this 24 hours BS.

Lol...sure!

Good advice. If you can't skive, and you want to avoid the caved in appearance, you can always add a filler between the ends of your rolled edges so that your piece has a consistent thickness. We use craft foam in the middle of ours to give a little padding. The dog doesn't care, but the owner does.

Your glue should work, but I would definitely test it on scrap first. Follow the instructions to the letter and see if it works. Chances are, it will.

Rob, you don't owe me anything, but I'm always down for a beer with a leatherworker. I get that life gets in the way, so no worries. If you need any help, just let me know

Have you considered going to the ELWATS show in Arnhem in October? I'll be teaching a class there. Otherwise, I LOVE to travel!

Welcome.

Welcome. Carving is the good stuff!

You're absolutely correct. Its to transfer a design to leather. The same can be done with a piece of paper and a pencil. Or a stylus or whatever. They are handy if you want to reproduce the same image multiple times, or you have a shaky hand. The quality is up to the carver regardless how the image is transferred to the leather.

Cool.

Thanks for the heads up about the boost, Johanna. FB is a necessary evil, unfortunately. Jeff, even professional athletes pay for coaches to critique and offer new techniques. Pro golfers have others evaluate their swing to get the hitch out of their giddyup. Leather carvers enter contests to have their work judged by pros in order to get a critique and maybe a prize. If you think you have it all figured out, and you're happy, then so be it. But, you might be surprised at what you could learn from someone else in a class setting. You're using a logical fallacy regarding my statement about carving and content. "But if "carving and content go hand in hand", then everybody who used the craftaid would all look the same, right?" Wrong. Obviously, everyone has different abilities and perceptions. Different TOOLS. Some have finer control of their knife or tools. Some have better attention to details than others, and some are perfectionists, while others are not. No matter how many people carve a craft aid, no two will look the same. Period. However. I will grant you that the results 100 people carving a craft aid will look more similar than the results of 100 people carving a portrait from a photograph. The variances involved in interpreting the image and applying it to leather are much greater than when its spoon fed with a step by step photo carve. Much like the dance steps where you put the shoe outlines on the floor and try to do them in order. Eventually you might be proficient at putting your feet (tools) in the right places, but it doesn't make you a dancer.

@Railrider1920, here's that quick tutorial I promised you. I hope it helps you on your journey. If you have ANY questions, feel free to ask. Mike

No sir. You can find them only from Robert Beard. However, you can get decent figure beveler and checkered beveler from other sources. Barry King and old, pre-letter craft from Bruce Johnson are an excellent place to start for less expansive tools.