keplerts

I got my Original Strap Cutter from Zack White Leather. Tom

Very, very, nice! I'm sure they will be super happy with the rig! Love the belt pattern.

The thread that I like the best is the waxed braided cord from Tandy. The number is: 11210-4 (beige). They have various colors. Just make the 4 in the number to whatever number matches the color you want. It is easy to work with.

Dwight, I'm mixing up a batch of your finish and am looking forward to trying it. Have you ever used Aussie conditioner? Would it be comparable to your mixture? Would the Aussie "seal" the dye from bleeding? Again, everyone, thanks for your replies and suggestions. Tom

Your welcome! There is just something about the way your work looks that really impresses me.

Josh, your work is absolutely awesome! There are lots of great leather works on this list, but there is something about the work you do that really hits me inside. My ambition is to turn out work as nice as yours. I look forward to seeing what you turn out next. Just AWSOME!

Looks great Josh! I really love your work! Now for a stupid questions: What the hell are cowboy cuffs, what are they used for, who would use them, and how do you use them???? But again, great job!

Very Nice! I really like the concho. Everything looks smooth and eye appealing.

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Greybeard..... The hand sewing around the edging to sew the lining in took me a little over three hours! Can't afford a machine right now but I do enjoy doing it by hand. I don't think I'll be lining any more by hand unless a "paying" customer wants one Dwight..... about the keeper.....that is a great suggestion! I would have used double capped rivets but the prong was too short after I put the lining on. Right now I did not put a finish/sealer on. What would you guys suggest I put on with out making it "glossy/shiny". Thanks again!

This is my first attempt at a gun holster and belt. I used the Hand of God pattern from Will Ghormley. The holster is 9-10oz leather and the belt is 9-10oz but I lined the back with 4-5oz. I know the pattern did not call for it to be lined but I thought I'd give it a try. The dye is mohogeny. Everything was hand sewn. I think the hardest part was sewing in the toe plug. The pics are not great but all I have is a low end cell phone to use. All your thoughts and pointers are greatly appreciated.

Beautiful carving! You did an outstanding job! Anyone would be happy with this great work.

Do you need a "Arbour Press" to use these or other makers marks? Or, does a good mallet work just as well? Just wondering what most use. Tom

Wow, Josh, your leather work is really, really nice! I liked your saddle but your holster work is fantastic! How do you mold the pistol outline on the holster? Do you use a press? Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the reply! I am using the Tandy set and, yes, I don't think they perform the greatest. Where do you buy the Judd set? Are the like the ones from Sheriden Leather?

When you all set your copper rivets do you use a rubber, poly, leather hammer/mallet? Or do you use a regular metal hammer? Seems like I get better setting with regular metal hammer. I know this will mushroom the tool head though. Just wondering what others use. Thanks, Tom

Great Job! I like the design. Also, I love the thread you used. Isn't that the braided cord from Tandy? I think it is a great thread to work with and so many colors.

Rory, You did a great job. I really like the looks of that buckel also. I just bought that pattern pack this week and have been looking it over. I haven't make one yet because I'm confused about what the differences are between a Ranger belt and a Scout belt. The Scout pattern at the bottom left looks so skinny. Could you or someone explain the difference? Also, it says there are patterns for two money belts, two ranger, and two scout. But it look like there is two money belts and one each of the ranger and scout. I'm new with all this so the pattern instructions seem to be missing some needed information.

Thanks for the info. I will give that a try. I hate the curdled butter look.

Here are some pics of my first saddle repair/restoration. I replaced the stirrup leathers, re-plugged and refleeced the skirsts. The skirts where just one very thin piece of leather that had curled under. I re-sewed the horn, re-dyed the whole saddle to a mahogany color (it was light oil color). I also pre-turned the stirrups and added some saddle strings. I finished it off with Fiebings Aussie conditioner and pure neatsfoot oil. It is a cheap production saddle that was held together by lots of staples. They stapled right through the fleece into the bars. I added lug straps to hold the skirts on. All-in-All I'm happy with the way it turned out. I only wish I would have taken before pics. I am workin my way up to actually building my own saddle. Thanks for looking... Tom I forgot to add that I hand stitched the whole thing. What a chore that was! Tom

I think your stirrup length is fine in the first photo. I believe your feet are pushed forward because that is how and aussie saddle in setup to place you feet. Most people ride with their stirrups way to long. Just goes to show there are lots of opinions Good luck on this one Jinx. Tom

I was storing it in my shop which can get to the lower 30's at nite. But I have other stuff there which never was frozen before. I have stored my neatslene oil there when it was even colder and it has NEVER showed any signs of freezing. The neatsfoot now leave a few "chunks" of fat on my leather. But I can wipe it off or rub it in. I just never used neatsfoot oil before and didn't know how much difference the was between it and neatslene. Thanks for the info.... Tom

Thanks for the reply! Also, thanks for telling me to buff the re-dyed leather. You were right.... a lot of dye came off on that white tee shirt I buffed with. Tom

I just bought some pure neatsfoot oil and it looks like curdled butter! Is that how it is suppose to look? I have used Neatslene oil before and it was a nice mellow brown color and was a nice oily texture. I never had a problem with neatslene freezing. Will Neatfoot oil freeze? Could it have frozen? Or is this curdled look the way it is suppose to look? Thanks, Tom

Hello, I am repairing and re-finishing a saddle. I have it re-dyed and oiled. I thought I would use the Fiebings Aussie conditioner on it as well and finish off with Bag Kote. I not sure if that is the right order so my question is: Should I put the conditioner on first and then the Bag Kote? Or Bag Kote first? Any input would be very appreciated. Thanks... Tom

Just wanted to share my experience with a thread that Tandy sells. It is Wax Braided Cord #11210. I have used it on various knife sheaths and I'm now redoing a saddle. It threads on the needle very easily and doesn't seem to twist and tangle like some threads. It is very strong, plenty of was and has nice smooth look. It comes plenty of different colors too. I started the saddle repairs using a machine thread #346. This stuff was awful to hand sew with! I have used the Braided Cord in three different colors and they all look great. I highly recommend this thread. If any one knows where I can get it in a larger spool than 25 yards please let me know. Tom