Red Cent

OK, JLS, but I'm gonna send you the bill on the 12 ton if it doesn't work .

Yep, way too much detail (really looks good) to enable any kind of a smooth draw. The other extreme is a World Fast Draw holster is a bucket/pouch that the handgun will jiggle around when you walk. Legal. Cowboy Fast Draw requires that the holster "fit" the gun but with zero retention. In SASS, you won't ever see detail molding. The shooter must draw quick and holster quick. We usually holster on the move. We need a big hole to hit when we holster the gun. Keep the detail but wrap some tape around the cylinder. Cover the bottom edge and sides. Not much. If the six shooter is a fixed sight gun, should do the trick. Blackhawks and the like have a big front sight. I use a pencil taped to the top of the barrel from the frame to the back of the front sight. Slope the back of the pencil where it meets the frame. That area of the leather will trap the front sight when it dries. Read it in a book somewhere. In addition, that is a high ride holster. Ergonomics will influence the draw causing pressure to be placed in certain areas. If that was hanging halfway between hip and knee, the natural motion of straight up would help some. If you had it tied down .

Highlands858, the burnishing part usually involves a tad of friction. Simply rubbing a smooth side piece of veg tan with your forefinger will produce discoloration. Rubbing a just barely damp raw edge with a handle of a butter knife will give you a somewhat clear glass look but you will still incur a little discoloration. Comes with the craft. If you have glue seeping out, the obvious answer is cut back on the glue. Roll your piece with something. I use a rolling pin and a one handed roller. The other answer is let it dry totally after compression. Actually I really like the different browns showing through a glass surface produced by burnishing. I made my burnishing tool especially to give me a slight burnished look on the edge or another groove burnishes the round edge including the bevel marks (if any after sanding) and another groove will burnish about 1/8" on both sides of a sandwich of 8/9 and 5/6 ounce leather. Don't be disappointed. It is a natural look. The other fellows have made some very good points. I use a rectangular foam pad impregnated with silicone particles. Last forever. When I sand a dyed piece of leather, I use a scrap to sand to rid the foam of color before I do my real sanding.

Camano, just re-read your post. Yep, ya gotta be careful when the WW is just right. So far it has worked out. With the heavy side clicked, it might be a good idea to do as you suggest laying it on the bigger thinner piece and trimming. Thinking out loud and reading the answers. Thanks folks.

Leather Legion, I agree. I think. With the steel plate above to cover the entire clicker, I should be able to cut in one whack. At the worst, a slight reposition to finish the cut.

I am considering buying a 20 ton shop press and clickers for a couple three best sellers. SL, the plates will be positioned on the press as others do. Logically, I would not think that a piece of 1/2 steel extended almost a foot on each side of the beam to be influenced. However, before I spend the money, I asked. You know, that intuitive and counter-intuitive thing. Camano, I hand cut both pieces as close as possible. Usually a tad big. I glue outer and liner, trim a little with a knife, then use a band sander to square all edges. Do the edge thing, mark and sew. Fold the holster and sew main seam. "One thing I have learned, you don't really want to try to glue together two pieces exactly the same size." Ears open. Never to late to learn something. I have the Bianchi DVDs where he does the steps as you suggested. However, that increases my waste. I used to do the Bianchi thing but I see no difference in product.

Been doing a lot of reading on this subject including a post below. And something occurred to me. A western holster laid out in its raw state measures almost 20"s long sometimes. Would this present a problem if I had a 24x12x1/2 steel plate on top and bottom? More specifically, would the length of the plates be a problem other than the potential hernia or other things bad? The clicker process appeals to me because I line most all my holsters. And two pieces cut exactly the same makes for easy edging. Cut, glue, bevel and sand. No waves, no bumps, and no edges uneven. yazzir. Anybody else doing the big piece of leather thing with a clicker?

Very little water and a dowel rod with sanded grooves. But first, understand that all veg tanned leather is not the same. I had to order some leather from a different vendor and, boy, did I get a surprise. The point: We are not doing ourselves a service until we all realize one method that works on a rather stiff, dry piece of leather will not work on a soft "spongy" piece of leather. Or leather from two distributors or retailers will not burnish the same way. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55573

The interesting part is that a Ruger 22 handgun will fit most any 1911 holster. The Ruger will actually secure in competition holsters. This is my MKIV in a Safariland speed rig. It actually snaps into the trigger guard just as my 1911.

And another thing. Ever had to make a small cut to get the cutter started even with a good blade? Well, with the pegs, you can apply much more pressure and the leather will not buckle on you.

Looks good. Why water buffalo? Just because?

Big no no. As in chromium salts rusts metal big time. Stick with the veg tanned.

Interesting. Do you simply touch the hot iron to the dry leather? Is there a "painting" stroke involved? I can't imaging getting a glass smooth edge burnish with a soldering iron. I believe I have read somewhere that a device was used to edge a piece of leather but it was ran through the device in a controlled manner to ensure a smooth surface. "Is the edge paint (acrylic?) the missing piece to give the edge a smooth plastic feel?" In my experience, no. " .......two pieces aren't merged seamlessly." How about telling us what you are making and, maybe, showing us an example. Difficult to address the questions without some more information.

vinagroon

The two bottom pegs hold the leather horizontal to the cutter and the top peg keeps it that way. If you have used this cutter for a while you will still put your fingers on the leather's bottom side but you don't have to manipulate the leather. The leather approaches the blade flat/horizontal and makes cutting much easier. No wrapping. Place the leather above the bottom pegs and under the top peg. I cut 8-9 ponce down to 4-5 ounce and I was surprised.

Feraud, when I use the cutter, I have to pull the cutter, keep the leather up and straight behind the blade while pulling. What you have mentioned wasn't intended but a fortunate consequence. While doing all those things while cutting, sometimes the handle would stray out from the leather causing an unwanted wave in the leather strip and leaving an opposing wave in the hide that had to be straightened out. Or I did not know how to use it. Well, now it cuts easily and straight with little assistance.

The cutter hugs the edge of the leather much better and one can concentrate on the pull rather than holding up the leather with the cutting hand. I think you will be very surprised if you try it.

KingX, did you notice the three rods sticking out of the handle? They don't come that way.

Nice work. And thank you for the pattern.

This might not be anything new but it sure helps me especially wit the thin stuff.

Are you saying the bobbin thread is laying in a straight line and not being pulled into the needle hole?

This a leather crafters "forum" guys and gals. This is the place where you should be able to ask questions. I would hope Dwight didn't mean for the OP to stop asking questions but that the Internet is really mindboggling when you want to search for something. Personally, I wish we could meet at the camp fire and partake of some adult libation and tell some good stories. Or Coca Cola.

Cool. This could be adapted on about anything. Need to get the balance point right on those old hoglegs. Looking good. If I was born in 1820, I would have this holster across the front with a belly gun and a hogleg on the strongside.

I also replaced the 277 on bottom with 207. Most of us has had some difficulties learning our machines and I can't rightly tell you the thread was the problem. However; I ain't about to go back and find out.

What Camano said. I burnish by converted grinder and dowel rod. I wet edge and no more. Burnish for shiny look. Dye a section at a time and burnish again. Not much pressure. The fresh dye will help compact the fibers further for a good shine. Normally, I dye again and use the old trusty super slick (sanded and waxed and worn silly smooth) dowel rod to bring the edge to a good mirror look. If it is still rough looking sand with 600 grit lightly, dye and burnish again. On a so so piece of leather that didn't quite produce the edge you wanted, go back a day or two later, dye and use the dowel rod/stick.