Red Cent

Hey Chief. I made my own burnishers from a 1" dowel rod. After burnishing some junk leather pieces covered with saddle soap and a touch of water, they are glass slick. Lot of different ways to achieve the perfect edge. I have the liquid glycerin along with the bar soap and all threst of the stuff. Never used the glycerin. Use it as lube for the thread. I gues I shouldn't worry so much. No complaints yet.

Whoa Dwight. I ain't that bad of a fixer. I don't recall if he told me what handgun he used. I have an old Safariland that has a welt/sight channel in front and a welt in back. Rubber type stuff. With holes in the rubber it is impossible to sew. New without holes, the C4 would do it.

Folks, there is an Adler 205 for sale on Facebook. They want $1000.00. Seems a good price. For Sale Adler 205 $1000.00 obo (870) 291-2722 https://www.facebook...&type=1

It is confusing for someone who has only used a couple of edge coatings/finishers/kotes...... There is edge dye, edge kote, edge ink, edge acrylics, and heaven knows what else. Some use saddle soap, glycerin bar soap, plain water, and saliva. Probably more. No finish at all sounds counter-intuitive but I do not question experience. From this thread I gather I could get the edge glass slick by sanding thoroughly, water burnish and beeswax/parafin burnish then buff and be done. Right?

Here is an example of edges coated with acrylic.

A lot of the stuff we use is labeled warning us to not let the contents freeze. Isn't that a problem? I keep a low heat in my shop when I leave for the day.

Sealant? What type of sealant do you use?

Interesting. I would think that the leather needs something to hold it down. I do the edges somewhat like you describe but I do finish with a thin coat of clear acrylic. Very flexible and, I thought, protects the edge from "roughing up".

A minute ago, a friend called about his laminated holster. He wanted to widen the holster inside by putting a welt up the back. Says his pistol stops at about 1" before it is all the way in the holster. No matter that problem. What does Safariland use in their laminated holsters? Is it kydex or a softer material? Anyone sewed through the stuff?

We know what you mean. Feel that tug on your leg?

You might find that a "grip down" SOB holster may be more ergonomic.

You mean work? Who does not use some kind of "finish" on the edge? The leather will come "undone" when you mold it into the shapw of the gun, much less when you sew.

The stamp tool rule says always work away from you. 'Course, a lot of attention to detail is required. You can make that barbed wire look like a contious fence line. Just gotta line up the point. We all started at the beginning and some has more God given talent than others. A good start. Keep at it and read, read, read,................... If you behave , this is the best sight ever for information. Gosh darn it, forgot something. Welcome pilgrim.

Ran certainly makes beautiful holsters. Unfortunately, here is a bunch of people that beat you in copying Ran's style . http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=owb+snap+on+holsters&qpvt=owb+snap+on+holsters&FORM=IGRE

Forget the Fieblings Premium Edge Finish. That stuff peels and flakes.

Another item that surprised me. The owner of Zack White had given me a small bottle of clear acrylic to try. Worked very well. Went to the store for supplies and they sold me the wrong stuff. The stuff they sold me was a bag kote. Rather watery and looks very milky. Goes on with a hint of milk color but dries clear. Works super on edges. You folks ever use bag kote on your edges?

Has any one tried the Fiebling acrylic edge finish? I tried it yesterday and was surprised by the thickness of the liquid. The stuff will really show up your pits, bumps, and the failure to completely sand. Dries to a brilliant shine. Almost too much of a shine. Not much later I flexed/bent the edge and it held very well. No cracks or anything.

Lowlife, I found that if I rub bar glycering soap on, it will stain the raw leather. Not so the dyed leather. After staining a piece, I remembered I had read a post by Dwight and tried the rest with water and.............................

I have a custom rig built by Rod Kibler that has the double buckle. And I like it. The belt is really a just because. I pictured it and I made it. And if I sell it, it will do anything from 40" and up to about 48" or so. Here is an interesting note. I was given a bunch of leather and tools by a friend and cowboy shooter. I mean a bunch. Included was a 3" x 48" strip of leather. The strip was not very stiff but felt really dense. Since I am going to build myself a rig over the winter, I started on the above belt. After reducing the strip to about 40" x 2" I placed it in a batch of proven vinagroon. The strip absorbed very little after a couple of minutes. I dried it in the sun and doaked it again for a couple of minutes. Did not soak all the way through. Worked up nice and took to a needle beautifully. I have a suspicion this leather was a piece of bridal leather or something like that. I have no idea. Anyone? PS: I just realized the center piece of the belt does not have a coat of neatsfoot.

A little different.

I am inside a 12 x 24 with electric heat. Never noticed the irritation with the other dyes. I will definitely take my sand blasting mask down to the shop.

I have been using the spirit dye in my airbrush. I tried English Saddle Tan oil and it was great. Other than I coughed for hour or so. I guess I should wear my mask when I use the stuff. Bad throat irritation. Yes, I was inside without a lot of ventilation.

I need a visual guide to get a straight or a continous round curve. But I am going to stop using the groove cutter. 'Course, I say this because I use a machine. I am starting to use a good creaser instead. Especially with things that need to be wet formed. The additional stress buries the threads further into the leather. Using 8-9 outer with a 4-5 liner, the thread will bury itself without a groove but with a slight crease.

I have found that the solution is sand, sand, sand. I rough and shape the edges with 120, smooth with 220, and then 400. Spray a little water on the edge and burnish with my 2.00 dowel rod. At this point it looks like glass. Dye the edge. Buff. Apply an acrylic from Zack White, let dry, buff and it is very nice. 50/50 beeswax and parafin is bondo to the leather world. Someone said that here. I use it also.

No criticism here. Some love the raw edges. Some like the look of cleaned up edges without burnishing. And I am no way qualified to criticize anyone. Just curious. I do about what HidePounder does. He has a tutorial on this ite. I guess what I noticed is the "corners" along the edges of the holster. From all I have read and practiced is "sand, sand, sand". I shape with a rubber sanding block using 120 grit. Then I take the long stuff off with 220. Most of the time I will finish it off with 400. With all this stuff removed and providing smooth curves, I find water and the wheel will slick the edge beautifully. Here is where there are numerous ways to capture the edge. The eternal search continues for the perfect stuff to get a glass slick rounded edge and keep it. Your edges are very clean and looks smooth. Again just curious.