Jump to content

Squilchuck

Members
  • Content Count

    210
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Squilchuck

  1. You could try inserting a dee with leather tab between the bottom of the cantle and top of the jockeys. Screw into the bottom of the cantle. A saddler did that to one of my saddles long before I did leather work. Not sure if your build w lace will leave enough space though. --John
  2. Can I use Renia thinner in Barge TF (toluene free)? Barge thinner has toluene, so defeats the purpose of using the TF. I haven't seen a thinner specifically for Barge TF. -John
  3. I thought I'd seen plenty on this topic a year or more ago, but can't find anything. What's the best way to sharpen a convex edge on a round knife without machines? Sandpaper on a mouse pad? I have a Ken Onion Worksharp but I find it tricky w a round knife. Is there a round knife technique for this machine? Is there a better machine for convex edges? Thanks. --John
  4. Art, I read some of your old posts on glue thinners. Didn't find an answer to this question. I have Renia Top-Fit thinner and wonder if it will work with Barge TF (toluene free) contact cement? I mostly use Top Fit for wet leather, but bought the Barge in a small can in a pinch for cement. Don't want to buy Barge thinner if I don't have to. -John

  5. Squilchuck

    Trees

    I just posted this on another thread you are on. I've had four made by Bowden from DL measurements and all fit very well. Cost of last one this winter was about $475. The rawhide finish was a big lumpy but smoothable. --John
  6. About trees made from Dennis Lane measurements. I've had four Buster Welch ranch cutter trees made by Bowden from DL measurements and all fit very true. The rawhide work was a bit lumpy in places, but those could be smoothed. The one I had made this last winter of 2020-21 was about $475 as I recall. I had a regular tree from Timberline and it fit well and the finish was very good. -John
  7. Along w Ken's suggestions, the Jeremiah Watt DVD. -John
  8. I made a low-tech one from cardboard. Saw it in Leathercrafters mag. Solid base, build up with pieces with bottle-size hole in middle. About 4"x6". Never a spill and a place to set your swabs. John
  9. On most larger strap items I'll machine sew one side of the loop, use clinched shoe nails to attach the other side of the keeper, then put a stitch or two between keeper and buckle. Will hand stitch that fine stitching through small items if I have to, but what a pain. -John
  10. How were the trees from Timberline "custom"? I've bought four trees from Bowden made custom per Dennis Lane measurements, but Timberline doesn't make from DL measurements last time I bought one from them. My limited experience from both brands (5 saddles) is similar - the finish on the Timberline wade tree was much better than the seam finish on Boden trees, some of which I had to build out and smooth. However, the Bowden DL custom trees fit perfect. John
  11. TF also has a strong smell, but I assume it is less toxic without T. Same with Renia Top Fit which I use too. I wear a respirator and have a vent fan. I'll use both when I have to glue wet leather, like in saddle making, but otherwise I switched long ago to Renia water-based glues. They work great - no toxic smell, apply easily, and bond great. I've had no problems with gluing dry, then wet molding after a brief dunk in warm water eg for a holster. -John
  12. Hmm, not sure about forward leaning. The book has some good info on fender design. Their shape is unique. I've made a few saddles, so am no super expert, but found good guidance on making fender patterns in the Harry Adams book. A simpler sleeker design. Seems like different styles of saddles have different shaped fenders. Make one that fits the design and function of your saddle, and looks good to you. --John
  13. I think in volume 1 in the intro section he talks about different fender styles. I'll look later. -John
  14. Never made one that way, but I guess they'd be the same length as inside except maybe a bit longer to do the outside curve around the stirrup. I think Stohlman mentions that method in his saddle book. -John
  15. Yes, call Leather Machine. I had a similar problem with not stopping fully. At Pendleton they showed me a quick fix of the servo switch. May be the same thing.
  16. Thanks everyone for the great advice! Glad to hear from Bruce as I'd looked at his stock on line and was puzzled not to see any shaves when there are lots of other tools. I'm an infrequent saddle maker (on my fifth) and have gotten by pretty well with a skife razor blade potato-peeler tool used one or two-handed and a cabinet scraper (a la Stohlman's book). Never have figured out how to use the other T-shaped razor skiver that you pull as in the previous post - always gouges. I'm not real keen on sharpening blades. I'll think about getting an inexpensive one to try. Ed gave lots to go on. -John
  17. I'll look for it locally. You can get Aquilem products mail order from Sorrell Notions or Montana Leather, I think. Thanks --John
  18. Are the shaves used for wood working the same as for leather working? At Lee Valley I see lots of shaves with a flat blade, but somehow looking at pictures or videos of saddle makers using them I got the impression the blade was curved?
  19. Good post, thanks. I bought some and went to use it for a refleece job, but it had sat on the store shelf too long, I guess, and was thick as toothpaste from the original bottle. I didn't have time to thin w water, so just used regular rubber cement. Sort of ticked me off it was unusable after just purchasing, but I'll thin it out. -John
  20. I've looked on the market for spoke shaves to use in saddle making several times but only find dubious used ones on ebay or wood working shaves, which I guess are different with a straight blade? Do ones for leather have thin curved blades? Where might I buy a good one or do you recommend two sizes? -John
  21. Yes, still looking. Cary does not have any. How much? I can pay you via PayPal or a check jn the mail. -John
  22. Curious about the Buster Welch roper tree. I've use a BW tree to make ranch cutter saddles with a TD horn. I didn't having roping in mind but someone asked if you could rope with the saddle. I asked the tree maker Bowden and they said the horn was strong enough but maybe not the bars being a cutter tree. They said roping calves might be OK. So, does your BW roper have beefed up bars to handle roping? I've always associated slimmer close-contact bars w BW cutting trees, so if the bars are beefed up for roping I guess it must be the swell that makes it BW? -John Ps: Saddle nicely done!
  23. Anyone have the Cary Schwarz ground seat DVD they'd sell me? I know you can buy them new on Amazon but it says 5-6 weeks delivery. I'd like to get it sooner to help find tune that skill for a saddle l'm making. -John
  24. Thanks for the full reply. Lots of good info. I like the template idea. I use them for lots of other things, so not sure why I didn't think of it. I'll check out the Cary Schwarz video. --John
×
×
  • Create New...