Squilchuck

Hide House or Montana Leather are my go-to vendors. Strictly Herman Oak for veg tan.

Thank you, Johanna! I'll start regular reading again.

Just browsed the "unread list" as I do each morning with my coffee. Biggest conversation threads were gun control and abortion. Leatherwork? Guess I'll take a break from regular reading and check back when I have questions. I've enjoyed reading the forum over the years and learned a lot about leatherwork from members. Also, it seems like saddlery posts have dwindled to a bare trickle, if that, so losing interest on that account too. Cheers! John

Good conversation about my initial question. Of course, those whom I ignore were not read. Yes, it was a leatherwork conversation - about a lack of leatherwork conversation. Anyway, I suggest we've exhausted the subject, close it, and move on to the really essential leather topics like guns and covid conspiracy theories.

I've read a few messages recently about increasing ignored-member lists. I have about 10 on my list. Anyone else think this indicates a problem with the forum? If you are like me, my ignored members are all regular political commentators in this forum. I'd probably enjoy hearing about leather from my ignored members, but I don't have time to sort through messages. Why have an off topic forum in a web site devoted to leather? John

I've done it two ways. Attach a short strap to the concho post in the back, and punch hole to attach to stirrup. Easy. Or, harder, sew a leather concho to main spur strap and attach concho to this. Before sewing, punch two holes in main strap (will be hidden by concho) for attachment. inside hole is 1/2" for inserting spur button, other is about 1/4" located to rear of strap where spur rests in use. Connect holes with bag punch. i usually just do this for outside strap. Concho has to be about 2" diameter to make it work. I got the idea from a pattern I bought. Don't recall the name. Brazos Bob or something? --John

I buy chap leather and HO veg tan leather regularly. Great quality and service. I highly recommend. -John

Dwight, this forum is made for butting in. Thanks for the advice. I've threatened to dip dye but swabbing is so much easier in my work space. I'll think again. I'll try oiling again. Dying black always comes out good. Thanks. John Ps. Whats so bad about a Glock? Don't own one, just curious.

You must dye before assembling and sewing and molding? I recently made a holster with those steps. Dye job w Feibings pro light brown looked nice, although dying gives me fits to get it even applying w a swab. I hate dying! After wet molding, however, color was darker and uneven. Your's looks great. How'd you do it? John

Thanks everyone for the good advice! --John

Anyone have a surefire way to flatten coasters? I've tried several ways of wetting and pressing, but none seem to work. I'm using 6/7 oz HO leather. You can see in the photo how they develop a slight wave after I thought they were dry and flat. Previous tries ended up slightly cupped. The problem is to press and dry them. I got a few fungus spots from a previous method. -John

When you layer a different color between the yoke and leg, sticking out the bottom of the yoke a 1/4" or so, is your sandwiched layer under the whole yoke or just a strip at the bottom skived to fit smoothly under yoke? Also, in sewing a fringe on the outside, do you put the fringe on top or under the chink body? I've usually put it on top. What looks or wears better? Thanks. --John

Just stitched with this narrow plate and feed dog on my Cobra 4. Works like a charm! --John

I use one like fredk showed. Works great.

Can anyone post a photo of how the hardware mike02130 suggested works? -John

Will it work on a Cobra 4? -John

Never have seen such a sale. If you buy at a leather show, you often can get a good show discount if you order in advance of the show. I got my Cobra 4 at the Pendleton show a while back at a good price and saved on shipping charges. Leather Machine is usually at the show. Give them a call to learn about a show deal. Pendleton show coming up first weekend in November. Machines come assembled and they can do a demo. In the past Cobra Steve had done a free class on operation and trouble shooting. --John

Right, hard to make a saddle from photographs on the internet. I can make it if I have a real saddle on hand to measure etc. Need that hardware though.

I've been asked about making a balanced-ride barrel/gaming saddle. I've made six saddles, and had a balanced ride saddle in the past so am familiar w the rigging etc. I recall that most of the saddle follows conventional design, except for the in-skirt rigging, stirrup leather attachments, and a pretty flat seat. Is that right, or are there other different design features? She can loan me a b-r saddle to reverse engineer the construction principles. Another question is where to get the particular hardware for securing the stirrup leathers (large screw etc. for swivel action) and adjusting them (same function as Blevins buckles). Got a source for these? Other suggestions? --John

Weaver used to sell a veg tan w pasted back. Never bought it, but check them out. -John

Seems to me I've seen then on a saddletree catalog. Try Bowden, Timberline, or Chicago Stockyards. I've bought other types of trees from all three so maybe one of them. Randy at Timberline might know who, if he doesn't make them. -John

I didn't read all the posts, but I have a Little Wonder press from Weaver and it sets line 20 and 24 snaps wonderfully easy. Also have dies to set jiffy rivets (never a bent shaft), 104 rivets, and hole punches. Great press - love it! A huge time saver on large projects. --John

I tool first and assemble then wet mold. Mostly basket stamp or some initials. Neither gets mushed. I don't soak the leather. Just a 5-10 second dunk in warm water to get soft enough. Sometimes I'll dunk quickly again. Let it soak in a minute after taking it out. Not sure I'd do that for floral carving. -John

Thanks for the help. John

A client has a saddle with a Cheyenne roll that is broken on the right third of length. It looks good until you pick up the saddle w the roll. Seat leather, or at least the padded seat cover, is intact. Its broken, separated, at the fold. Other than rebuilding the roll is there a quick fix? I thought putting a bead of Liquid Nails into the broken fold might stabilize it at something less than full strength. Got any better ideas, or think the glue wont work? -John