Squilchuck

Stohlman shows putting a board between the skirt and saddle stand when installing the inskirt rigging piece to elevate the pieces and avoid a bulge in the rigging piece when cinched up on a horse. Do you all use this method or do you attach rigging as it hangs on the saddle stand -- John

I just bought something from Pro Edge Burnishers, so they are in business. I ordered on line and got it in a week or so -John

To disassemble I'd use a Xacto blade to cut through stitching and glue. I've used a heat gun to take apart large pieces, but be careful not to get the leather too hot. I peeled back some then directed heat to where leather joins. Not fast or fun. -John

I've made four saddles but none w built in strainer. I'm thinking to make one this winter from a Chicago Stockyards tree w built in strainer. There are some posts on building on those trees that talk about building a ground seat. You might search for them. My recollection is that you might want to build some seat to shape as you like. --John

Depends on how much has been stitched before the miss. If not much, redo. If a lot, like halfway through a saddle skirt, I'll take out to missed stitch then start by overlapping a good stitch and continue. Seems to happen only in thick stiff leather if I don't use a slightly bigger needle. I've also used a diamond point needle in those cases. --John

Thanks, all, for the advice. --John

Any recommendations on weight of leather to use for a sporran? I've made a couple from leftover 4-5 oz chap leather, but I have to order leather to make a couple of sporran and wondered if people generally use heavier or lighter leather. One pattern I found used 8 oz leather which seemed thick? Sporran would be a semi-formal style with some fur on front or flap. --John PS. Wondering if plural for sporran is sporran or sporrans?

I’ve made four saddles – one with flat-plate rigging and the others dropped-ring rigging. I want to make a light-weight trail saddle with in-skirt rigging this winter. It seems pretty straight forward to make an in-skirt rigging with rear jockeys covering the back of the rigging, as Stohlman or posts from Keith Seidel and others on this forum show. However, I am puzzled about how the integrated rear skirt + rigging is secured to the tree without jockeys. I have not seen this discussed. From what I can see in photos there would be screws under the seat jockey, the seat ear, the rear concho, and under the skirt into the cantle, but that seems to be pretty light compared to what you’d get with rigging under a rear jockey. Any advice on this? Any detailed instructions (other than Stohlman) or videos on making an in-skirt rigging like this? --John

Anyone used the new Strap-Eze strap cutter from Frontier Gunleather ?

What they said. One of the most useful tools I have for making high-quality work efficiently. - John

I'd give a call to Leather Machine company. Steve and his crew have always given great service. Before calling double check you are threading correctly and for snags.

I don't use RTC finish much but have a Sheridan piece that I'd like to take from shiny to satin finish. What can I use to take the shine off without stripping the RTC? The bottle says to use RTC conditioner to give a satin finish, but I don't have that on hand. -- John

Round edge then dye before burnishing for best results. I might dye after burnishing w water if edge is ragged.

The Stohlman books used to come in three volumes, but I think it's printed in a single big volume. The JW video is great, but only shows how to make a Wade saddle. So, if you have to cover different swells or horns then the other sources cover that.

I'm a novice having made four saddles. Stohlman books have lots of great info and clear instructions. Some of their methods have been generally modernized by others, like using metal seat strainer vs leather ground seat. I've found Harry Adam's book to be quite helpful and shows different, maybe better, ways of doing things like making patterns. I'm more and more veering to techniques in Jeremiah Watt video. The Stohlman books' advantage is they address lots of basic issues and designs. Look for them on sale at Tandy for less than $100. There are lots of discussion threads about this topic. Others swear by different sources. I've also used a couple techniques and info from Pete Gorrell's series from Leathercrafters journal. --John

You take several measurements of the horse's shape along back using a series of templates w various arc shapes. Give the numbers to tree maker and they replicate shape. Look up Dennis Lane saddle tree system in Australia, or similar words. There is a video out there too. -John

The Weaver website has a good video w Chuck Dorset explaining the difference between the two Feibings dyes and their use. He recommends the Pro dyes, which I've found best. --John

I think I saw an attachment like that on saddles sold/made by Len Brown. He sells a line of saddle pads and now saddles and tack. Look him up on line adding Protector pad to search. Might also be called Len Brown Innovations. He responds well to inquiries. He has a goofy website but you'll find the saddle section. I use his saddle pad on my horse - it does work. --John

Hide house in Napa has a huge selection of quality leather, fast shipping to WA, and great service. If you qualify for a wholesale account, you can save big on retail costs. -John

I've given these away. --John

I think Barry has couple tool lists on his website. The assortment depends on what you want to tool, e.g., geometric or basket designs vs. floral rolling. There are a lot of posts about swivel knife decisions. --John

I've used tan kote on a couple saddles. I usually wait a few days for the oil to distribute well, but I guess 24 hours in a well heated room? I only use one coat of tan kote. Mostly, I use resolene on strap goods and other leather projects. Resolene diluted 50/50 goes on easy, dries fast and even, and gives a longer lasting resistant coat than tan cote from all accounts. I used it on saddles because it gives a nice finish that eventually wears off so the saddle could be oiled. Hard to re-oil w resolene. --John

For my first saddle I made his saddle1. I kept it simple by following the book exactly. What rigging do you want? I think does several kinds in the books. He does go on about his ways are best, when there are many ways to do tasks. I've made four saddles and I sort of mix methods from Stohlman, Harry Adams book, and Jeremiah Watt video. -John

I got a roll of thin cork backing w adhesive at Hobby Lobby to put on all my metal rulers. Works great. --John

Bob Klenda sells a nice pattern and he is very good about answering emails with your questions. Look at his website. -John