Squilchuck

All great info! One question: After you trace the lettering from the pattern, do you first cut the letter outline w a swivel knife, then proceed w bevelers? Or, are you using bevelers or modeling tools to outline letters? --John

Thanks, Bruce. I did not find photos on the website, but their Facebook page has a number of photos that show how it works. -John

I could not find a roll a sharp online. Have an address?

There was an easy to make pattern in the Leathercrafters Journal a few years go. I've made several to keep stamps in. Made a wood block too, but holes always seemed too small or too big for stamp shafts when tryin to keep similar stamps together. I'll look up issue and post later. --John

Thanks for the great ideas, Gary.

I've thought about airbrushing, but I work in the basement and wonder if you need ventilation or a big background to catch off spray? How messy is it? Can you spray on a horizontal surface? -John

Like-new Rex Riveter bought a few years ago from Weaver. Comes with both splash anvil and cap-setting anvil to set all sizes of #104 rivets. I bought a more versatile Little Wonder, so don't need this nice tool anymore. $50 plus shipping cost. Board shown below not included, unless you want it too.

Post a photo for us.

I deal with them all the time and recommend them. Great service, great selection, quality, and prices. Fast and reasonable shipping. I've only returned a side or two, and they are very good about returns/replacements.

I'm trying something new with applique braiding on a headstall. I've done buck stitching and edge lacing before. I have Grant's Encyclopedia. One thing I find lacking in the book, and a bit frustrating, is advice on hole spacing, and size for holes other than the width of a lace. For example, on p. 453 with a split-thong applique of two thongs how wide and far apart are the holes. Then, how best to make neat holes? I have 5/32" and 1/8" chisels, so that type of single slot is easy; but, the applique looks like it needs holes >1/4" wide. How to easily and neatly cut/chisel/punch these? Several whacks of the 1/8" chisel, which can be tricky to line up, or something like a wood chisel? So, any rules of thumb on hole spacing and size, then how to make neat large holes (not round punched, that is) is appreciated? Thanks. --John.

What brand tree is that? I don't see the conventional rawhide covering. My first thought was a Precision tree w Kevlar covering, or just some kind of resin? Without the rawhide the tree would be much lighter, I'd guess, but still strong? What has been peoples experience with trees sans rawhide, or Precision brand trees? I've made three saddles and thinking the next to be lightweight. --John

I have used them for small areas like small lettering and touching up. Experimenting w larger areas, it seemed like the color had a flat sheen compared to a rich full color from regular dye. I mostly use dye pens from Tandy (filled w Feibings), but still use fine Sharpies for narrow lettering. The dye pen tips are not super narrow and seem to soften w time. --John

Interesting about stirrup leather position. I recently replaced stirrup leathers on a saddle - the tail of the leather was on the inside and was so long it ran under the stirrup. I haven't repaired lots of saddles (made a few) and couldn't understand why anyone would want the extra leather bulking under the stirrup like that. I put the new leathers on the outside. In my limited experience, long tails of the stirrup leather flopping around or folded up indicate the fenders are too long for the rider, and the fender and leather needs to be resized. I've done that for several small women who were riding saddles built for a long-legged person. I'm curious to know how many custom saddle makers put leathers on the inside? Is that a common practice? --John

I have a newer Rex riveter from Weaver and about 25% of the time it sets Weaver steel 104 rivets crooked. I try to make sure I use a proper sized rivet and the shaft and cap are aligned. Also, I have to press hard to set the rivet and often still hit it with a hammer to set the cap down well. Is it me or the riveter? I'm thinking of getting a Little Wonder to solve these problems. I'd hope the LIttle Wonder sets rivets straight wo me getting a hernia pressing on the handle. I can't get the Rex to punch a hole and set a rivet w cap - will the Little Wonder do this? Any advice on using the Rex, or using a Little Wonder? --John

I had the same thoughts as Randy when I looked at the saddle. --John

I hate the solvent glue smell too, and its definitely not good for you. I use the Renia water-base glues when I can. if I have to use a solvent glue, then I use the less toxic Renia or Barge cements in a fan-vented room and I wear a good respirator that completely filters out the solvent odors. I bought mine at Lowes off the shelf. --John

Those mails are currently on sale? The black one looks ok, but is half the weight of the others. Would be good for stamping, but heavier nice for punching and cutting. There are existing discussion threads on maul weight. I'd guess either are decent. You can get high quality mauls from Barry King for a bit less than the TLF white mauls. Buy your stamps from Barry too. I used Craftool stamps when I started because of price, and was shocked someone would pay $35 for a stamp! But once you use a quality stamp like BK's you will not go back. Check out a current thread on stamping tools. The example Bruce Johnson shows tells it all. You invest a lot of labor goes into stamping so invest in a quality stamp to get professional results that stand out. The same can be said for using quality leather like Herman Oak. --John

I have a small anvil from Harbor Freight, I think. I mainly use a metal plate bought at Lowes hardware. --John

Most Lexol products can be bought at ranch supply stores in the horse section. Try one of their cleaners or plain saddle soap. Neatsfoot oil is my choice for conditioning, but I also like Feibings 4-way care spray. The Al Stohlman 3-book series on case making, available at Tandy, will tell you everything you need to know In detail about making custom cases and lots of basic leather working techniques. Volume 1 covers making custom knife sheaths. Have fun! --John PS I got started w a Tandy starter kit and think it a good way to get started wo having to start from zero re tools and techniques. The kits and books are often on sale. Watch Tandy website

I have a Cobra 4 and have gotten excellent service from Steve, and other staff as well, over the phone and at the Pendleton show. The machine has been solid too after 4 years of use. --John

Dragonfly, did you ever fix this piece - draw the oil out? I thought I had earlier seen a photo of the restored piece, but can't find anything. -John

I re-fleeced a saddle for someone, and she later came back to tell me that the stirrups ride further back (an inch or two) than before the work. I couldn't think of a mechanical reason how that would result from re-fleecing. I asked her if she was riding properly with heels down, and she told me indignantly that she had been riding since she was 13 yr old (now 65)! An inspection of the stirrup leathers showed them unmoved and in the proper slot built into the tree and saddle. My guess is that the new fleece subtly changed the rider's position, perhaps raising the front a bit and moving her back in the saddle? That might go away after the fleece compacts. Any ideas on why re-fleecing would change the rider's stirrup position backward? --John

Jeremiah Watt in his video also has an easy procedure for setting the rigging. I highly recommend his video to watch in whole, then again as you do particular parts. The Harry Adams book is helpful too, especially about making patterns. The Stohlman book is excellent, but some of his procedures, like the rigging jig, can be done more easily. I've made three saddles. The first was Stohlman's #1 saddle made as written. Next was a mix from the above sources. Last one I veered toward Watt's methods, especially cutting and fitting parts. I always go back to Stohlman for his detail and comprehensive treatment of different styles. -John

Tucker saddles have used felt instead of sheepskin and I think they still have felt skirt lining. I've never used one nor known anyone with one, so not sure how well they hold up or function. --John

How well do needle-tip applicators work with Feibings dye for coloring letters? --John