Hillbilly tim

Missed that part! Sorry

Why dont you use a heavy sewing machine with big needle installed and NO thread. it will punch lots of holes in a line one after another. Bro Tim

The small poundo im using is like hard rubber, no holes. just flipped jewel side down on it and set it. Bro Tim

easy, get to within your last stitch and use the stitch length/reverse lever to position the needle for a handwheeled stitch. then turn the work piece, reposition the stitch length lever and sew away to the next corner. Bro Timothy

Firstly, tell us what process you are using. I've been setting those jeweled-faceted rivets in straps some recently. the process i was told was to use a small poundo board and place the jewel upside down and set with your tool on the bottom. It worked for me, so....maybe. bro timothy

A lot of folks but burnisher accessories to put in drill presses, etc. For about the same price you can have a purpose built burnisher to fit an old electric motor many have lying aroundIt could be mounted out in the shop or on a board to make portable like the mixer/beater idea. Thats the way to keep the old noodle working and remain frugle too!. A question to the OP, sorry to be off topic but what is the color of the piece you posted? tannery dyed or did you do it? I'm not sure if its the lighting or what but, I like the hue of it, a lot!! Bro Timothy

Dwight, I really like that! most everyone makes cases that slip on from a narrow side. Nice design! Hope all is well my Brother! Bro. Timothy

When I bought my cobra class 4, steve told me it was a normal matter of operation to raise the presser foot and then pull the thread at the take up arm only when it is at the top of its travel to allow extra thread and easy product removal. Bro Tim

I really like the griffin/dragon creature. Its cool!

I agree that Joyce has the easiest option and if I were to be using the pattern on a regular basis I would purchase the template. Bro Tim

Or use your dividers to mark a light centerline and outside borders. Then use an object such as a paper plate to mark the outside radius of the plate over a chosen distance such as 8" to 10", just make sure it divided evenly over the length of the belt. lightly mark that radius to the ends of the belt and stitch. no need to reinvent the wheel or make it more comlicated. Bro Tim

Chief, I've looked at these several times since you posted them. Nice work BTW. Some reason I expected it to appear more prominate, I've never had any 346 in hand. Are you cutting a groove or creasing? As I said I sew with 277 and sometimes think its small but, sometimes it looks huge! I'm tempted to buy a spool of 346 in red to put on as a contrasting element to a black side I've got here. I wonder why folks don't do a contrasting thread more? It seems to me that folks try to hide their seams instead of using it as a design element. I'm a believer in form and function. Bro Tim

Hey Chief Jason, Do you have a pic of the 346 on a holster i/we can see to help illustrate its visual form you speak of? I regularly swen my holsters and most everything with 277. I would like to compare please. It may do us all some good. Only difference is I sew with a class 4 machine. Thx, Bro Timothy.

Hmmm, I haven't tried that as yet. I'll give it a go, thanks!!! Bro Tim

Well I'll jump in here as I also have a class 4. For what it's worth, I have the same basic setup as Harold, redcent, has come to use. I however still use bonded nylon, I do use a lubepot with gly. saddle soap too. 277 top always and 207 and 277 bottom depending on what i'm doing. I do think in my testing that 207 on bottom is less problematic. I tested the 207 in the bottom by buying prewound bobbins of it on a paper core from springfield at 0.39 cents each. oddly enough, it works better loaded turning in reverse from how I load the 277 in the shuttle. Go figure!! I do agree with harold somewhat but I think there may be many more than 379 ways to thread a class 4. I had considered adding the threaded rod in top of the machine like the cowboy 4500 runs but, if you think it through it will only increase tension on your top thread because of the drag going through the 2 holes thereby exacerbating the problem. That said I do love my machine but, still have problems if I try something too thin. Yuk, what a mess it'll make!!!! Bro Tim

Planes are also valuable for squaring or leveling stacked glued leather too. better than trying to control a knife while trying to straighten up the lines of a project. Bro Timothy

Only problem is with the custom makers is the OP is in italy. There may be import taxes or tarrifs on such. Tandy items can be bought in europe already. Bro Timothy

Harold and all, I look around for a gun I liked for spraying finishes only, Resolene. I finially ended up with a gravity fed touch-up gun from lowes home ctr. It was the cheaper of the two but, it has a smaller one pint capacity cup that is plastic and can see the fluid level without removing the lid. This helps keep out dirt and dust while helping to avoid spills. One main feature that help me decide to purchase was that they stock and sell replacement fluid cups. While it is in the 30-35 dollar range the quality is high and it is also a high volume low pressure gun as well. This allows the use of a wide range of compressors too. I've been VERY happy with its performance thus far and the cleaning is easy. One cavot, I have only sprayed clear finshes with it. Bro. Timothy

I saw the clips and I'm looking forward to your review and thoughts on them. Bro Tim

There is always the option of using granite surface plates. Granite stones that have been ground level, plumb and square for the metal machining industry and others too i suppose. Grizzly tools seems to have the least expensive examples I have seen. Link here. They have several sizes but, I do not know about shipping costs but I have ***always*** had good experiences with the company previously. Bro Tim

I dont know anything about the ancestry of your tools but, there are some really interesting and unique, to me at least, tools. Nice thanks for showing, Bro. Tim

Palermo, I was fortunate to be able to purchase a new Class 4 a few weeks ago, I love it! I suggest you take some time to review the offerings of the companies that advertise in the banners found on the top of the pages here. All of these folks are knowledgeable and eager to assist you in finding just the right machine for your needs. You will find some fantastic people to work with. Give it a try! Bro. Tim the pistol packing preacher!

thats a great resource to know!! Thats for sharing with us all. Bro.Tim

Austin, its been my experience that the mk I,II,III are esentially the same w/respect to barrel differences. Those pistol pattern are easy to really make. I wish i had a scanner i would send you a copy but I dont. If nothing works out for you maybe I could snail-mail you one. But keep in mind there were many many barrel variations in that series of pistols. Bro Tim

Hello all!, i've got a small problem, I just got my new class 4 a couple weeks ago. When it came I didnt get all the correct presser feet in the package. As seen in the accompaning photo I recieved 2 that were esentially alike and did not get a single left foot nor a open toe center foot. Kinda disappointed there. Steves recommendation was just to cut one of the dual feet to make a single I need, no problem at all. I only need to know if there is any signifigance in the two feet as there are slightly different. One has a wider center area compared to the other. Is one of these specific to another function, plate, feed dog or center toe that would cause problems if I chose incorrectly which one to cut off? Yes this was one of the white ones that steve had a few of. thank you for taking the time to look. Bro Tim