bladegrinder

The speed dial might have a set screw in it that came loose, Check for that and maybe see if you can pull that knob off and just turn the shaft behind it with pliers or something and see if that changes your speed

Looks great, I don't have kids so mine just sits on a table next to me but that's a great idea.

If you do a search for "vacuum bag" you'll find a video Dwight made and posted, I don't know how to copy the link here, but In making mine I pretty much did it just like in his video, it works great!

A friend of mine had a friend over his house drinking, he fell down some steps and broke his arm. all was good at the hospital until his insurance company found out where it happened. my friend got sued by the other guys insurance company. in this case my friends homeowners insurance took care of it. I never asked but I'm sure his rates went up.

Thanks JLS, like I told Walter, those ends just appear to be closed in the picture. I didn't dye the slots because I was worried it might bleed out to the front or back. the brown holster is oil tanned from the sun, I didn't want to risk having the dye weep out to the front or back.

Thanks Walter, actually the toe isn't closed it just looks kind of like that in the picture. the holster is about 3/4" longer then the gun slide so the vacuum bag pulled the ends in, there's still an opening there. That Elephant hide is nice looking, I tried dying a small piece but it didn't look good at all. I believe this is tanned the natural color. I'd say this was about 3oz. it seems easy to work with but there is zero stretch,even when wet.

Those look great! Nice work.

That looks ok for a first Diesel, my first had a lot of mistakes that I realized after it was finished. it sill worked and I use it around my property but what JLS and Hags is saying is spot on. I draw a pattern on construction paper exactly like JLS has shown here. and like Hags said, you want good clearance for the grip and especially the mag release. after you make a few the lights will come on. but I would stitch it up prior to wet molding. one other thing I do it after it's been wet formed I leave the gun in it and let my vacuum pump run a couple extra minutes to help pull some water out of the leather, then I let it rest out in the air with the gun still in it for about 15 minutes, then I pull the gun carefully and place the holster in a pid controlled toaster oven on a piece of cardboard set at 150 degrees. I flip it every 30 minutes till it feels pretty dry but more importantly, the leather hardens. you have to be careful doing this or you'll have leather jerky. once the holster cools and probably shrinks a little I put the gun in a 1 gallon ziploc bag and force it into the holster, 24 hours later it fits like a glove in a nice firm holster.

Wow! Very nice maul!

Thanks Diesel, I mark my stitch line around the gun from the pattern, then do the stamping. Thanks Hags!

These are both for a Glock 19, the first one has an Elephant hide overlay. the second one is a standard holster. Thanks for looking!

Very nice work on those holsters!

Ron told the wife he was really excited about the upcoming four day hunting trip, that's all he talked about, the night before he left he asked his wife to pack his clothes. so the next day he had all his deer hunting stuff in the truck, wife wished him good luck and off he went. After four days of hard drinking and gambling with his friends in Vegas he went home and the wife asked how it was staying out in the cold woods hunting, and did he get anything. he said, well I took a few shots at some nice deer but somehow I missed, I guess my scope is off, other then that it was kind of boring. but you must have forgot to pack my socks, I couldn't find any socks with my cloths. his wife say's, I put five pairs right on top of your rifle inside your gun case.

It seems like nothing is made in America anymore. I just bought a TV and it said, built in antenna...I don't even know where that is.

Thanks Cattleman, I’ve got a holster I’m going to try it on soon, I’m looking forward to trying it again and getting some good results

Thanks Hags, I was on the fence with it too that’s why I never used it, but just recently I was thinking there’s got to be a way to make the stamping pop a little more and after reading up about antiquing and watching some YouTube videos about how to properly apply it I thought I’d try it. It seems like I pulled it off ok and it sealed up good so I’ll keep on trying it where it seems applicable.

That handle material is called Raffir, it's an epoxy based resin with what the manufacturer says are plant fibers inside. it kind of looks like corn husks to me. I like it, it's some really different stuff for sure. I use black G10 liners between it and the tang to highlight the yellow in it. Thanks rleather!

Thanks, the Damascus steel is from Brad Vice, Alabama Damascus and the other knife is CPM154 stainless. the stamp came from Sergey, yea have to be selective due to the price but they really stamp nice and he has some patterns you can't find anywhere else. Thanks Marshall, I actually wish I started using it on some things a long time ago, I'm sure I'll be using it more often now on certain pieces.

Here's a couple of standard style knife sheaths I make. this is actually the first time I ever used antique. I used a base coat of Fiebing's tan kote, then Fiebings light brown antique paste then another coat of tan kote, the next day I put on one light coat of resolene. I think they came out ok for my first try with this stuff and am pretty happy with the finished results so far. Thanks for looking!

I can't speak for eco flo super sheen but I did my first antique on a couple knife sheaths the other day and used feibings antique and tan kote as a resist and it worked good, i should have a couple pictures tomorrow.

Those are some really nice looking wallets!

That looks awesome!

Those are nice!

I got a CB4500 a year or so ago and ran a lot of practice leather thru it before trying to make anything decent, you just have to get to know your machine. once you learn the ins and outs of that machine you'll love it, just keep practicing on scrap. One thing I learnt was to watch out where you place the belt loops, you don't want that running under the foot when your stitching the side of the sheath. nice folder there!

I think for large pieces air brushes don't give enough penetration, or I should say depth unless you spray it 100 times. at least for me when I first started using an air brush on leather it seemed to me like a light scratch exposed un-dyed leather. They are great for fading, I only use mine anymore for doing a darker fade from the edge of the piece inwards over lighter dyed work piece.