cardinal leather

I ran into this scam on Craigslist, seems its been around for a while. i told the guy when u show up with cash we will deal. never heard from then again.

nice job Yin, why u worrying about what someone else thinks? Last winter i worked to complete Steve Yezeks challenge of 100 flowers in one hundred days. It didn't work out like i wanted (took more than 100 days) but did manage to complete around 100 + flowers n other things. i dated and numbered them then put them in a 3 ring binder as i completed them that way i could track if i was making any headway. i learned a lot and could use the completed pieces to test new techniques as i already had a good idea of what i did wrong on the finished ones. and i used up a pile of scrap that i wouldn't use for anything else. sad to say I'm a long way from Steve's class but had a great time behind the hammer.

rossr, nice job as always. where u getting the colored deer skin? i should have some around here for liners.

From your photo it looks like the band is about 1 inch or a little wider with the fold of the brim at the bottom behind the hat band. Could you take a thin strap the same width as the band, of leather like kangaroo skin insert it around the hat and run pva glue between the strips? It would be a fairly delicate restoration as you would not want glue to soak down into the brim area and soak thru but if a guy was careful it should work out, When the glue is dried for a day then you could condition the existing hatband, it should take, and the glued backing would add valued support to an otherwise lost cause. not sure that this would be considered a period restoration but it would salvage the band.

I watched a u tube vid on this item. the guy used candle wax rubbed on the project n rubbed it with some kind of pad. if you google dieselpunk.ro u can review the vid. for yourself.

Thank you for the Christmas present. I enjoy studying your holster designs.

Rossr, I like all your knives but have to say the is one of your top knife designs. A lot of the Bowie's that i see are not balanced, ( at least to my eye) to big in the blade and to small in the handle. This one is well balanced with both blade and enough handle for a great grip wet or dry. nicely done.

I have a small shop about 20x20 that is attached to my metal building. the entire shop floors ceiling and walls are 6 inch and well insulated. After some debate on propane, natural gas, electric, wood heat, i decided on electric heat for now. I am remodeling my carpenter shop this winter, when that is completed i would like to install a propane furnace of some kind that can be tapped for the leather studio as well. In the meantime i installed a 120.00 dollar 5000 btu 240 volt electric heater. this unit does an excellent job in keeping the shop around 48 to 50 degree's, it hangs from the ceiling above the entry door and is easy to adjust when i come in in the morning. The cost of running it in northwest wisconsin during the cold months is about 90-95.00 per month. But i have to say there is no muss no fuss no odors with it so it may stay.

Rossr you did a spectacular job on that rebuild considering what it looked like when you started. It looks totally natural and ready for another 40 years of service.

Hey Rossr, Nice job as always. Your knives remind me of the old English style. i like the carving on the end. Back in the old times the owner of that knife would have used it as his personal seal. Could you make the front part of the retention strap wider in the front and narrow in the back like you have it ? or add a second one up around the top?

Yin, Nice finish up to that project. I don't know that the knife is ugly, just different. The sheath is top rate. Don't you just hate it when the project drags on?

I couldn't figure out why the spring on the take up lever snapped. After inspecting it again I found that the last time I threaded it I missed the upper thread guide some how and managed to thread it into the take up arm direct from the tensioner. This action must have put enough pressure on the lever to pull it to the side and cause fatiguing to the spring. When the thread is going in straight there is no problem, but there is a slight side play to the take up arm on the pin to allow it to move freely. The moral of this story is to use all of the thread the machine correctly.

I've done a couple belts and a guitar case where I took out the old stitches then resewed them with new stitching all the way around. On the guitar case I only removed the bad stitching then replaced it with same color, well almost the same color. customer was happy. the case was worth more than the guitar. Can't do a belt in 2 hours tho, takes me about 5, never use more thread than I can pull at my wingspan of about 5'8" and can never quite use it all as it gets to beat from the in and out.

this is the other photo, hope it does not blow up again.

sorry about the photo, im trying to learn how to downsize them.

Mine says made in Great Britain, it does not have the large copper bolt with the t nut on it that was on the one Wiz had.

Mine is the slate blue color. Do you have any other historical info on the 172?

I do like that idea as well. I put the service manual for the 29k72 and the 29k172 up side by side and they both show the same dimensions, set up, threading, darning, same depth to right of the needle. The only difference that I see is that the 72 has the wheel on the end and the 172 has the wheel on the side. does yours have the wheel on the end? The 172 must be a sub class of the 72, maybe one of the collectors or service folks on this forum can tell us the difference.

lol, I had thought of cleaning up the clutch then adding something to slick it up a little but wasn't sure that was a good idea, sounds like you have already been there n done that. the clutch motor runs good so before I switch I will go ahead and clean it readjust it and see how it responds. the reducer sounds like a fair idea as well. the small pulley is 1 3/4 or 2 inch now with 6 in at the machine so 3 in 1 would bring it down where I could control it better. I will get ahold of Toledo and see what they can do for me. I went ahead and bought the phase converter for my 3 phase pfaffs, they both run pretty well I am in the process of getting the veristops repaired and running. I've been using them without but want to use all of the features so need the air connection. thank you for the return to my questions.

sorry about the double post, must of double clicked. Any one that has a 29k172 feel free to jump in., I sent to Wiz as I know that he has this machine.

Wiz, A couple of questions for you. Do you still have your 29k172? I found a series of photos of the one that I bought being rebuilt by and older gentleman. I don't think it was used after he finished it. At any rate I like this machine, it seems to do the best with 92 thread. When I use 138 it seems like I'm always fiddling with the tensions. I was sewing a couple of 8 0z straps together when the metal spring on the upper take up lever popped. it looks like this is a fairly new spring but I must have reset it to tight. I found one on line but they are very expensive, just wondering if you have a source for parts for this machine. Also I need to do some work on the clutch motor set up as it is difficult to feather the machine. I checked the pulleys on the 1725 motor on the machine and it appears that it is running at around 583 rpms at the machine, the manual says it should not run over 500. I would like it to run around 350 rpm at the machine. my question before I spend any more time on the clutch motor would this unit benefit from a conversion to a servo motor?

Nicely done, also nice job sewing with a patcher, what thread did you use in your patcher to complete this project.

Great job as usual, love the bone handled knife.

I don't think this is a worse case as the bearings and shafts needle bar etc. all seem to be tight, the paint is clean and tight, no repaint that I could see, no over usage or paint wore off. the hand wheel is small and did seem to be tight when I rotated the needle up and down a little. I did not bottom it out but did raise it as far as it would go to check it. they could have it jammed with thread under or around the bottom of the bobbin case. I did not take it apart but almost looks like more operator error than anything else.

A neighbor offered to sell me his consew 227 r-2, clutch motor fully assembled on sewing table. He would like to get 500.00 for it, he reports that he has had some trouble with the timing on it but admits that he does not know much about the machine so decided to get rid of it. I found info on this site about machine numbers all around this one but not much on this machine. My question is is this machine worth 500.00 even if i have to have some work done on it to correct the timing? Also i saw somewhere on the net that this machine is good up to 207 thread, does anyone have any experience with using larger or smaller dia. thread?