cardinal leather

it would be less expensive and a lot less work to pull the carpet and pad out and store it until you leave then have it reinstalled. You can work on the sub floor and who cares about a few spills. Also give you solid surface to roll equipment around on. Maybe your land lord would do it for you at a reasonable cost.

RoosterShooter, contact Raysouth on this board. i think he has what you are looking for and he is movingo out a lot of things that he does not use anymore.

Ray sent me his steer skull for the postage, mentioned that he had the horns. I bought them for a reasonable price, then he included another set as the free stuff. All arrived in good condition, horns are very nice and I have some plans for them. Thank you Ray, it was a pleasure doing business with you.

May look into an activated charcoal filter so the air can be vented into the room keeping the heat in during the winter. Or have a preheater for the make up air coming in. Cardinal Leather, much easier to put a filter on the inside inlet than the exhaust. Easier to change, and doesn't get affected by outside weather/dirt/etc.. Biggundoctor, You are correct, this unit has an interior filter that will be revised to suit my needs. I am also installing an exterior filter to pick up anything that gets past the first one. I have first hand experience with how some of these products float on the wind after they have atomized. If it turns out that it is not needed the exterior filter is easy enough to remove. Jim

I purchased a used stainless steel range hood for that purpose in my shop. These units are designed to exhaust airborne grease and oils from the cooking process, so in theory they should be explosion proof enough to handle the stains and finishes that we use in our shops. One thing you would have to consider is which direction the vent opening would face. Airborne stains, finishes, glues will tend to float on the wind so if you vent into the prevailing winds you could end up with stain finish, glue all over the side of your house, same on the roof if you have light color shingles. Also watch our for parking areas as you would not want it on your car or your neighbors property. I am going to fix a furnace filter to the exterior exhaust to collect it. if you are in open space no problems vent away. This is only one idea. If you are nervous about it at all, have a qualified professional guide you thru this venting process. Jim.

pm sent

i just sent a pm to raysouth. i hit send and nothing happened, waited a couple of seconds then hit send again. it posted twice. so watch out for delay time to your server.

You can get soapstone and holders in round and square. if you get round you can sharpen it in your pencil sharpenter.

old radios, old drafting equipment, animal skulls, odd items not seen everywhere, belt buckles, old carpenter, welding tools, books of all kinds.

Put it in an old fridge with a light bulb 25-60 watt. add a thermometer to moniter the heat in fridge, adjust bulb to maintain temp around 60-65 deg.

I needed something small to dye the inside of a punched hole. q tips were to big so pulled a piece of cotton off of a cotton ball and wrapped it around a round wood toothpick. it worked great. I have tried it on a number of different applicators from sharpened pencils to chop stix from panda express. I like the chop stix best as they are flexible and strong and you can always break or sliver a piece off for smaller applications. haven't used q tips since. A bag of cotton balls last a long time and can be used for other things. Also have one of the stainless applicators that jreeser1 is using. that works well to,haven't tried it on glue but sounds like it would work well. Jim

Chief, Nicely done, From the photos it looks like chocolate pigskin liner, what is the zippered pouch made from? Thanks for your comments, Jim

Do you have a price in mind for this machine, Does it have any rollers with it?

You could find a local on line auction house for your sale. I talked to a guy in MN a couple of years ago that wanted to sell out. I went to inspect his equipment, all very nice and fairly new due to a break in and theft. He wanted around 10 grand for his shop. I did not have a place to store everything at the time. I did buy the only item that he did not include in his sale advertisement. In the end he sent all thru an online auction house that sold only his stock in the sale, they advertised it as his shop sale. I tracked the sale when it came up and was amazed at all of the product, tools, hardware that he had. Not sure how much he got for it but know that he was at or over what he was looking for. Just a thought, good luck with your sale. Jim

Tried out my own post from last night, this morning. built proto type to see how it would work out. Worked fine as a vert application. Not so good as a bracelet. I did not want to remove the finished ends of my bolo ties so used different types of leather lace. they all work but in the bracelett form they are to stringy for my taste. Then tried para cord, this worked the best. some downsides. ---takes some time to relace to bracelet ---re-lacing could lead to breakage of the arrow head or knocking it loose from its tiedown ---if the lace dangles out to far it is possible to snag on something and do damage to wrist as there is no breakaway like a snap. This project looks good on paper but will take some thought to get it to the finish product.

You could do this project with a 1 1/2 wide x 2" high platform depending on the size of the arrowhead. run a row of holes down ea side on the outside of the arrowhead about 1/4" and about 3/8 to 1/2 in apart and starting about 1/4 down from the top and up from the bottom. The holes size would have to be the same size as the finish end that you use on the tie, and likley oval holes to allow things to lay flat as possible. Your bolo necklace tie would have to be long enough to allow for large. medium, small wrist. Convert it to necklace by pushing the ends vertically out thru the top hole from behind and thru the bottom hole and out the back. To convert it to a wrist band you would insert one end thru a hole, loop it around the wrist leaving the full end and a little extra hanging out. then go around thru the next hole and around again until the upper end hangs out the upper hole or one of the upper holes. This would give considerable adjustment for wrist size, better if it a little loose than to tight. You will have to work with the concept some to see how it works out. but since we are brainstorming the problem. Draw it out on paper and see if it works for you. You will also have to fasten the arrow head. You might consider using small rawhide lace that you would sew thru the and around the nock of the arrow then make an x over the lower part of the arrow head and fasten it behing the platform and coating with finish when done and dried. this allows full view of the centerpiece and should still hold it in place. I am just tossing out some ideas for you to consider let us know how it works out.

My dad had a siding and roofing business for forty years so I grew up on a roof and a ladder all over Wisconsin. During high school I joined the Navy Reserves and spent 10 years as machinist mate. In the meantime I worked my way thru a carpenter apprenticeship and into construction. Twenty five years of commercial, residential construction and project management lead into a custom cabinet shop installing custom and semi custom cabinets along with build/install laminate and solid surface countertops. A great business but would not support two families so I moved back into the construction business. An opportunity came along thru a friend to apply for a job as a property insurance adjuster. Another great job but after 19 years I started to see the finish line. I managed to fall off a roof in MN a couple of years ago and during recuperation I discovered this site. It inspired my last career choice. I had not done any leather work in years and then repairs and hobby things for myself and family. After considerable time and study I am aiming at the repair side of the business with a few shows thrown in to meet more leatherworkers and enjoy the craft. I started a new shop for my craft work this year and hope to have it up and running prior to retirement from my day job. Along with my wood shop I will be plenty busy. I am already doing some small custom leather work and doing custom strap work for my son’s pet store. Moving ahead slowly to make sure that I can keep up with everything. I will not likely approach the level of work that I see on this site, but that is ok as there is plenty of work out there for every skill level. One of the best parts of this site is the chance to follow new, opposing and independent views of the craft, equipment and techniques both old and new. Thank you all for your input, keep it coming.

One thing that I forgot to mention on this post last night was that if you try to bend a strap with this product at 180 deg for a buckle, d ring, pet snap or whatever. Be very carefull as the product will crack across the bend. You need to recondition the leather to do this. I also discovered this morning that you can soak the bend section in water and it will absorb thru the stain. I kept it in the water until the bubbles started to come out and a little longer. By bending it slowly and applying a clamp it worked out fine. I am going to try that again on heaver material to see how it works out.

I read Will Ghormley's article on this stain some time ago. Purchased dark brown, tan, black. I have used this product on molded epee pen cases, cell phone cases, holsters, belts and leather coverd buckles. so far it has held up well on all items and looks great. My grandson has a molded paddle style epee pen case that he wears daily, little boys are rough on things and I told him not to spare it as we can make another one if needed. the case is pretty beat up but the finish still looks good. his mother reports that it does not rub off on his pants. it also gives good results as an edge dye. To get the best results the best application seems to be anything used to apply it in circular motion until absorbed and blended together, then stop. It does not hurt if the leather is a little damp when applied either just be liberal with the dye. you can apply a second layer and it stilll blends in well with the first coat.

Thanks Constabulary, I will be working on a couple of these machines in the future. Any photos that you have along with these diagrams may be usefull. The big question would be how does the US power system compare to the one you are using? I have a couple of electricians that should be able to do the work or talk me thru it. Jim