Geneva

Are you looking for a pull-through splitter? Or a hand cranked splitter like listed for sale in your post. I have a 6" E. C. Atkins splitter I would be willing to sell. It looks like the #86 Osborne. It is very sharp and has an almost new blade. I bought the blade 2 years ago. I would sell it for 375 us dollars. I will split the shipping with you. I replaced the 6" splitter with a 10" Chase pattern splitter made in 1859. The Chase pattern splitter is WOW. I can now split 6 or 7" material with no problem. Let me know if you want it.

The only way to use a larger thread is to take the bobbin cover and either mill more clearance or grind it out yourself from the slot that is cut in the underside of the bobbin cover. There isn't enough clearance between the top of the bobbin holder and the bottom of the bobbin cover for any thicker thread. You would not be able to run the larger thread in the bobbin just on the top. Good luck.

It depends on what buckle u use for the collar. I use 1" buckles with a roller nose they require a 1" bag punch for the center bar. Good luck.

I would not use Neetsfoot oil on a belt it is not a sealer and it can cause the leather to stretch. I use a tallow concotion for my belts the leather does not loose oil when it is tanned it looses fats the tallow helps restore some of it. I use bees wax on the edges after dyeing and burnish of course. I use Resolene to seal my finished belt. Good luck.

NO FEEDING MECHANISM. Lifting presser, link take-up and work plate. For sack darning. Hook oiling device. Singer suggested replacement 133K18. I don't think this will sew leather. Good luck.

If you don't plan on making money with your effort and time you should find a different hobby. Just my two cents

This sewing machine is not designed to sew leather. It is an in home sewing machine.

Try Garrett Leather Co. Buffalo, NY. They sell mostly upholstery material. Their web site is located in their name. Good luck.

That is the first and only one I have seen. Henderson sewing does not have this model lilsted in their Singer parts manuals. Good luck.

I agree with Constabulary. There is no such sub class as 31. I did a search for a couple of hours and did not find anything on such a machine

This is a split leather probably not chrome tan either. It looks like Nubuck one side looks like suade the other side looks like really fine suede almost as smooth as a babies bottom. I would hate to wear a boot made from chrome tanned leather it has lots of nasty chromeium salts and other stuff in it that would cause skin irriations and other nasty stuff no one wants. If you succeed in sealing this material you will loose the smooth texture. Good luck. PS: Never use chrome tanned leather on any animal leash, collar, bridal, halter, cinch, you get the idea.

If you are going to do some serious leather sewing this machine will not hold up. PS: This Youtube video should help. I will keep my mouth shut this looks like a good machine.

This is not caused by dying a piece of leather. It is caused by the use of belly leather. A good piece of leather does not have the top grain loose like this belt does. This stuff does not make good dog collars let alone belts.

It is possible to cut 30' staps from one piece of leather. Using the method I will try to explain commits the hide to this type of strap so here goes. Use a large hide 20 to 25 sq. ft.. Cut all of the right angles off of the hide you will have a large oval. Latigo tends to stretch when used for this. I would stick to the English bridle. A creaser works best to straighten the stap that is all there is to it. Or if all else fails sew the pieces together. Good luck.

A little west of Philly (63 miles) is Beiler's Manufacturing Supply located in Ronks, Pa.. If you live around road Street Road it will be a little longer. I am pretty sure they have any thing you will need along the lines of clicking leather. Their phone is 717 sevensixeight 0174. They are Amish they do not have a web site. Only a catalogue

Once Resolene is applied as a finish; that is all you can do the the product. Resolene seals and water proofs, it does not allow anything to penetrate.

Resolene is an ammonia base product. Water works the best to cut it.

Why do you feel the need to reduce spirit based dye? Doing that will change the color of the dye. You don't need to use neetsfoot oil on your leather products. It causes the leather to stretch. You would be farther ahead to make up a tallow mixture to treat your projects with, tallow does not cause the product to stretch. I think there is a post about the tallow in LW somewhere. Good luck.

Luberto is out of business. I think someone should take control of the sales of this machine and raise the price to 2199, what do ya' think

It is 6 parts of Feibings Light Brown Pro oil leather dye and 2 parts of Feibings dark brown regular dye (not pro oil) mixed. The material is veg tanned. I emerced the belt in the mix and drug it through the mix. I did not use a brush to apply it with. Have fun with the dye.

Thank you gentlemen. The buckles are from Beiler's Manufacturing in Ronks, Pa.

These are some belts I finished last Tuesday. Hope ya' like ukm, the pictures are not great. They are all 1 1/4" wide 9 oz. material. I use tallow before sealing the product with Resolene. The buckles are stinless steel. What do ya' think of the dye job?? I discovered that while trying to make a solid color belt. They all went through the same dye and all came out different patterns.

This machine can be purchased for 3 to 400 dollars at the Weaver auction that is if there aren't a bunch of knot heads running the prices up on them

It would appear the leather u used is a piece of belly. Not good for mkaking straps as you know now. You can not get rid of the wrinkles don't put any oil of any type on the strap. Oil will cause more streatching. The best thing is to find a piece of kyour leather that does not rinkle when it is bent towards itslef like you did the finished strap. Good luck.

Anytime.