Colt W Knight

Just guessing it's so you can turn it inside out easier...

...double post....

The vast majority of your inexpensive hardware is simply painted with epoxy enamel paint. If you prep the surface you intend to paint properly, it's pretty good stuff. There are lot of different epoxy enamels, and you can buy them in a lot of different forms. Sherwin Williams sells it as Polane or heavy equipment/tractor paint, gun refinishers use Dura Coat, and you can buy it at the hard ware store as appliance epoxy enamel, I believe it's made by rustoleum. Lots of other manufacturers and trade names as well. If you decide to do it yourself, you need to scuff up the surface really well so it will hold the paint. Clean thoroughly, then spray on the enamel. You can let it air dry, but it will fully cure and be harder if you bake it. 170 for 30-45 minutes will do the trick.

Thanks yall.

My buddy in Texas asked me to make him a horizontal draw sheath for his pocket knife. He told the store bought pouch ones wear out quickly, and the knife just flops out. I gave a wet molded sheath a go.

If you have put that much wax and sealer on them, I doubt the soap is penetrating. I would suggest stripping off all that sealer/wax you have on there. Then give em a good scrubbing with saddle soap, and then recondition and give it a coat of Kiwi. I haven't used a boot/clothes leather sealer that worked like it was supposed to yet.

Choose the weight for what you stamp. Heaviest ones are best for big stamps like letters and punches. Medium weights are great for borders. and lighter weights are best for detail tooling. The heavier you go, the less work you have to put into it, you just pick up the maul and let it fall, the weight of the maul does the work. However, if its too heavy, your arm gets fatigued. Too light, you have to put some umph.. in your swing and/or strike multiple times for a good impression. I haven't noticed much difference tooling thin/thick leather.

You can do a lot with just a few stamps, especially if you have a good piece of marble/granite and a good maul. I cheaped out on mauls for a long time, but getting a real maul made a big difference.

8 ounce leather, tooled wonder woman pinup, and rope border. Finished with 50/50 mop n glo and neutral kiwi I think I used too much resist, it cracked a little, but guitar players go nuts over aged stuff ( not all, but this customer will). This has some gold and red wool felt lining

What are those staples called that hold your keeper together, and where can I get them? What kind of weave stamp is that?

I am surprised the machine is sewing correctly with that outside presser foot falling of the edge and shifting everytime it comes down.

Thank you Weaver, I didn't know they were fancy til they arrived.

Thanks Greg

And this one is going to Kentucky

I think that is a realistic estimate for a running leather machine in the States, especially in areas that don't see a lot of used machines. When I was looking for a used machines, most of the ones I found were damn near retail for a new machine of similar capabilities. I talked to a lot of older leather workers and saddle repair guys, and most of them would tell me I had to buy an older machine to get one that would stand up to leather work. I know that isn't true, but that is the perception of a lot of the older generation guys I have talked to.

Couple of questions for you, how wide do you make your inside keeper? Mine are 1/2" wide, and they are riveted/chicago screwed all the way through to help the buckle from sagging. The keeper itself is pretty tight when assembled. Those were just buckle sets I had left over from a Tandy sale. I like the idea of roller buckles though. Do you have a good source for them? I looked at some roller buckle at the feedstore yesterday, but they looked like poor quality and ugly.

Good call, I would be too timid to use the original holster.

Had a lot of interest in this style belt from friends, so I got to make some more This one is going to Texas This one to Kentucky Those were made using two pieces of Veg Tan leather. Nice 8 ounce leather on the outside and some cheapo 5 ounce on the inside that wasn't good for anything else. Glued together with contact cement, then I sanded and burnished the edges real nice. I attached the buckles and such with chicago screws this time instead of sewing and riveting. I think it looks cleaner.

Found how to fix it using google. Had to use that safety clutch button

I was sewing with my Consew 206RB-1 and everything was going well. Started a new belt, and it kept fraying thread. I played with the top thread tension, and got it sewing. Then, as I was going around a corner, the thread got tight, and broke. It was almost out of bobbin thread, so I wound a new bobbin, and put it back in but the needle wont pick up the bottom thread now? I have no idea what is wrong, any suggestion?

Thanks Chief

That is what is nice about a Ranger belt

My first attempt at a Ranger Style belt I needed a new work belt, and I was tired of my old belt stretching so much. This one is pretty HD. 13 ounce latigo I had left over from making GPS tracking collars. 1" portion of the belt is 8/9 ounce veg tan with copper rivet reinforcement Now I want to make a more decorative one.

My over lap is about 2" longer than the 1" strap with the holes punched in it. The inside opening of my buckle sits flush with the wide end on the other side of the strap * still need to finish burnish the edges and add a few copper rivets. Belt is 13 ounce latigo I had left over from GPS tracking collars I made for cattle. The 1" straps are 8 ounce veg tan.

I have never owned a Ranger belt, but have wanted one after I saw one for the first time ( and new what I was looking at). Decided to make one, but I couldn't find any guidelines about the over laps. I just winged it after looking at a few picture. Couple questions for yall. 1. How long do you make your overlap on the wide part that tucks in behind the belt? 2. Where do you position your buckle in relation to the end of the wide part of the belt?