Colt W Knight

I am pretty sure those copper rivets come from the factory with a coating to keep them from tarnishing in the box. Once you cut, hammer on them, it wears the coating off leaving them subject to tarnish. Yes, you can polish off the corrosion. Something like Never Dull will take it right off. If you want to prevent the tarnish, you can top coat them with something.

Thanks Bill

Yes, Copper rivets will turn green. I just had some do that.

I amazed by the original artwork you biker and tattoo guys have. I struggle with faces. Did you actually use your knife on the face, or just trace it on with a stylus?

It will look even better with age and dirt, but you can add a layer of protection like resolene or leather lacquers like wyosheen

Thanks windrider

Glad that turbine system is working for you.

This is what it looks like in natural light. I really like the mop n glo finish because it preserves the leather feel. Thank you Thank you

Do you use an awl or a chisel to make your holes? When I used a chisel, I found I had to dye, allow to dry, seal, then punch the holes. If I punched the holes, then dyed, I couldn't keep the thread clean.

I think my padfolios are getting better, but still room for improvement. I have been trying to incorporate more backgrounds and colors whether they be acrylics or two-tone dyes. Finished these with mop and glo. First time trying that. Felt bags Backs Inside Didn't like the plain A, so I painted it

Looks very well made.

Depending on thick you need to see, you can pick up older treadle operated Singers.

Just read your post about the frayed thread. I went through that when I switched to 138. What I found is that indexing the needle properly was key with the larger thread. When I used #92 thread, it really wasn't that big of an issue. However, when I switched to 138, I found that the slot on the needle has to be aligned perfectly, or it causes fraying problems. The needles I use don't have a flat spot to index them, so I have to watch very carefully to keep the grooved side of the needle on the left and not twisted any to the back or front. Another thing I noticed that would cause problems is if the bobbin was almost empty, or the needle is dull/nicked. I just read another post of the Leather Sewing Machine forum that said you can easily index the needle by using a toothpick.

Bags look nice. I want to start making bags soon. Quick question, why the roll top instead of something like a zipper or hasp?

Nice stamping. I was going to buy one of those nice Cowboy machines, but I had some things come up that ate away my sewing machine fund. I hope to get saved back up and buy one by January.

Mine does this if the needle isn't seated just perfectly.

Consew 206rb

My sewing machine does this if I don't have the needle turned just pefectly. I don't K own what needle system you use, but mine has a round shank, so indexing the groove on the left side of the needle is critical. It will also do this if the bobbin is about empty, or the needle is dull.

I bet you could sell that machine out right locally. I watched the classifieds for 6-7 months in Arizona for a used leather machine, and used machines very rarely came up for sale. When they did, they typically sold for a pretty high price.

I don't have much real experience with lvlp. So take this with a grain of salt. I do not think you can cover a hide that quickly with a lvlp. I think you will want a hvlp to get the volume up. That leather is going to literally suck up the dye you spray on it like a sponge. I doubt that compressor will not run during use with a spray gun. That doesn't mean it can't keep up on small projects though. It's just going to be noisy. Ideally the compressor will keep about 120-140 psi in its tank. You will have a pressure gauge on the tank to adjust how much psi the compressor will hold before the motor kicks on and starts refill ING the tank. You will have another gauge that allows you to set the pressure to the Ling going to the gun. I generally set mine about 60-80 psi. Then you can pit a gauge on the gun itself that will allow you to control the psi entering the gun, ~30 psi. Then you fine tune the spray with the adjustment knobs on the gun. If the pressure gets to low, the gun will start to spray different and you can just release the trigger and watch the gauge till its ready to go again. If the pressure gets to low, the gun will start to spray different and you can just release the trigger and watch the gauge till its ready to go again.

I would completely avoid electric sprayers. Everyone I have ever used either broke, or didn't function anywhere near as well as a pneumatic spray gun.

I use a variety of spray guns, but they are all pretty standard size hvlp guns designed for automotive use. I think they generally have 1.4 mm tip for the larger ones and .8 mm for the detail guns. I use very large 60-80 Gallo air compressors because I also utilize them to run pneumatic tools like impact wrenches and die grinders. Cheaper spray guns are less durable, don't hold adjustment as well, and don't atomize paint as well. However, those might not be an issue with leather dyes. Dye is lot different than trying to get automotive paint to lay down as smooth as possible. You might also be better off with a siphon fed gun. You could keep all your different color dyes in different cups, and have an extra cup full of cleaner/solvent to flush/clean switching from color to color.

I have gotten a lot of request to make dog collars, especially, rolled dog collars. I can handle the construction of the collar, but I am curious as to what weight leather is generally used, and how wide the collar should be on the non-rolled section. For example, this is my test collar. Made it for a larger yellow lab mutt with a fat neck. I think the leather either needs to be thicker, or the collar shouldn't be as wide. It is a5/6 oz leather and 1 1/4" wide. used some pretty HD brass hardware.

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Are those machines loud?