Darren Brosowski

Schmetz are the best you can get. GB, Organ, Dotec and TNC are a pretty good second level. Orange from Korea on a good day. There are plenty of others but it can depend on needle class and type of sewing.

Serafil is not as strong as bonded Nylon but has a better feel and inherent UV resistance. I believe that it was designed for sail making and is used in many technical applications. Alll threads are a compromise but I believe it is the best for leather work

LOL Bob, unlike some sellers I have never pretended that the thing is anything other than crude and rude.

Best three threads in order - Serafil, serafil, serafil

The machine I think you are talking about is based on the Wertheim, Claase etc 1860's machines. They are crude but with the right set up can work very well. Primarily they are made for the third world market where they want a simple machine that is portable, can take all sorts of abuse and uses readily available needles. The ABLE290 is what I call the machine and I offer a proper manual as well as a bobbin winder that actually works.

There are a couple of simple problems that many people overlook. If the thread catches up in the upper thread path then it will do two things; fail to form a loop, and pull the needle away from the hook 1/ check the top - pre tension and see of the thread has worn a groove into it. If so then unscrew it and put it back in with a thin washer behind it. This will provide a fresh face for the thread to run over without binding. 2/ Pull apart the main tension and look at the discs. The metal surfaces need to be shiny and may need a polish with fine steal wool. The felt washers need to be oiled. New replacements are available on ebay. 3/ The wear in the take up spring can catch the thread which will cause problems. New spring sets are available on ebay. 4/ The take up lever has an inner wear ring. If there is wear in the ring then you undo the small screw and turn it around to give the thread a clean face. If there is a lot of slop on the bottom end the try turning the inner shuttle race ring around. If both sides are worn then new ones are available on ebay. Important note: when I say these parts are available on ebay I am probably the only supplier offering them. You can also contact suppliers such as Toledo, Cobra or Techsew

Long arm 441's are too awkward but anything else can be hand cranked! Not as good as a treadle but a good way to go and they can always be put on a table later on

Hi all, That is my machine on eBay Australia. Obviously if you are going to run the machine one handed you need a roller guide and I supply that with the machine.

Have you contacted the supplier? If not then you are acting in poor faith. Every supplier here knows that there can be variations from one batch of product to the next and we are not able to test every item. Unless customers let us know there is a problem then we keep shipping them. If the supplier does not respond to the issue then change suppliers.

If you want to buy a 29 direct from China then just go down to the nearest casino as you have more chance of coming out ahead

Seiko still builds the 153 and 158 class as the LSC and LSW so parts will be around for a while The Consew 227R (a Seiko) is still in production and the same machine as the original Singer

If you need new bits I can help as I have been sourcing new parts from all over the world. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Able-Sewing/Singer-45K-/_i.html?_fsub=4575201015&_sid=47422815&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Looks like a GA5 and for that price I would buy one from a known dealer. With a roller foot and some fiddling around it can sew 3/4" but it is not something any of us here would suggest trying at home...........

Seiko CW-8B is essentially the cylinder bed version of the 206RB and has more flexibility. Talk to the dealers about your needs

Knowing Singer I would never say that a particular model number is imossible.

I tend to use the pre tensioner before playing with the main tension - just a personal preference

It really comes down to the condition of the machine. If we were talking about an old school Singer or ADLER then they will probably run for another 100 years but newer machines were set up for higher speeds and have much higher wear rates. Unless you are buying a machine from a dealer you trust and will warrant a second hand machine then it is probably cheaper to buy a new version fully set up with a servo motor.

Great machine if in good condition If there is any slop in the mechanism then walk away as you will pay an arm, a leg and your first born for parts

We do our best but sometimes we have to give people news that they do not want to hear.

Every now and then we also try to get some sleep.

GC0318 is a reasonable machine. Just check the feet as some have rather nasty serrations and you need smoothe feet.

The only potentially annoying part of these machines is the "safety clutch" The Consew 227R IS a Seiko CW-8B. "Consolidated Sewing" is just a branding exercise for the Western market Of course the design dates back to Singer but Seiko did things like add reverse

Contact Toyota direct!!

Being a refrigeration mechanic I use very expensive electrical screwdrivers. As I use them every day I replace them every 12 months. Crap tools = crap job

I know I have mentioned this before but the Amman Serafill is a brilliant thread. It is used in many technical applications and has outstanding UV resistance. As a bonus it has a lovely "feel" to the hand and does not damage machines. Yes the really high end nylon has some of these properties but not all.