Troy Burch

Thanks cgleathercraft that's just what I needed. I have 2 machines a Boss and an Adler 205 but sometimes I hand stitch also but not enough to know what to use.

Could you give me the site you ordered from and would you know what mm size would be just smaller than the 277 thread. Thank You Troy

If any antique has touched that I really need to know what he uses for a resist. The knife cuts and mule feet seem to have been but much of it looks like good burnishing. Even the backgrounding doesn't look to have been antiqued to me.

Thanks for the replies.I will definitely clean off the wax if I use this stuff again but WScott probly has the best idea to use a better thread.

I used some of Tandys heavily waxed thread, even though my hands and table were clean the wax turned a dirty grey. Is there some way to clean it without hurting the antique and finish? Thanks Troy

Is that the same stuff taxidermist use to bleach cow skull?

Yep, sometimes I'm in a hurry and misspell thank goodness your here to correct me.

There is a much better deal at Tandy right now. $2.99 each for out of production craftools, looks like about 95 kinds to choose from. Make sure they're stainless the flier dosen't say.

I have a few craftools in the Z series. They look like those but I thought they were made in Taiwon ( however it's spelled). I went to my shop and took a file to one and it was stainless steal. My pic is terrible but they look like them to me. However the basket stamp on my ct is a X series and the 7th from the right is a S series. The leaf third from the right and the first one on the right is a L series but your pic doesn't show the numbers. I bought a fella's tool set years ago and these were mixed in so mine are fairly old tools. I'm a little suspicious about the wrong lettering because I have about half of them in your pic that are labeled V, C, etc not Z. The pic is worse than I thought. If you need it I'll find my good camera and take another.

Your going to have to explain that one to me. My social media skills dont go much past lol

Your going to have to post bigger pictures for me to help. I can't see the ends good enough. The bottom one is a modeling spoon on one end and a stylist (used to trace patterns among other things) on the other. I think I see a hair blade and a groover but I'm not sure.

Nobody knows what the white splotches are? I've seen it a lot on other hides but picked over them and never asked anyone that worked there what it was.

Got my first HO back in yesturday. It has what looks to be a white tanning solution streak on a slight angle down the middle the entire lenght of the hide. Will this stuff cause problems or can it be ignored? I've searched for answers and couldn't find anything about it. Haven't had this problem before because I 've always hand picked my leather at tandy. Am I going to lose a 1/3 of this hide or can something be done about it. Thank you Troy

I've had my Boss for about eight years and it's been one problem after another and nothing I tried fixed it. Today I decided to take it apart and go through it one last time before i threw it in the trash. The problem turned out be be an easy fix. After all this time it was the arm bracket thread roller take up on the needle bar shaft. It came from the factory not quite in the right position, it was stopping the handle from making a complete cycle, It wasn't off much but just enough. After adjusting it I checked it on scrap then sewed an entire belt (for the first time with no problems) and it's working great. When the handle goes to the top it makes a much different sound now kinda sharper and more solid click. The people on this site have helped me so much I thought I'd post this and maybe help someone else. I sewed 2 pieces of leather one 8oz and one 5oz and when I ran off the 8 onto just the 5 it didn't even miss a stitch. Troy

Colt, unlike Tandy leather I'm not going to knock crafttools, their very good for figure carving which is about all i've been doing but they aren't for floral carving. Hopefully now I have all the right tools for any kind of tooling I want to do. I also read a post Hidepounder wrote on caseing leather about a year ago and since I've been doing it that way my tooling greatly improved even with Tandy leather. Happy carving Troy Oh by the way I like that you carve your letters in stead of stamping them.

That's where I'm at Colt, got my first HO back today and $560.00 worth of Barry King tools. I've been tooling for about 8 years and kinda quit improving, hopeing this will take me to the next level. Little worried about the HO it has a white streak right down the middle, tanning solution I guess. Anyone know if this hurts the finish product? Troy

I did a black belt once and in the right light it had a brown hue. An old timer told me to dye it blue first then black and I wouldn't have that problem anymore. Might be worth a try at least on a piece of scrap.

Thanks everyone for your advice you've been a big help. I know what direction I need to go now. A special thanks to Wizcrafts, I'm not in the dark now. Cowboy Bob has send me a pm with some possible help so I should be in good hands. Troy

Thanks oltoot, I'm definately going to get it set up right or I'm just going to sell it. I'll try that adjustment to see If I can get by for now. Thanks Troy

Tom, I'm used to one handed sewing because of the Boss I've been using. I hold the throtle cable in my hand so I can actually use my left hand and my thumb and index finger on my right hand also. It works pretty good for me except the speed control part. Thanks for your help, Troy

Wizcrafts, That slow steady speed with full power sounds like What I need. Would I commission your kind of setup with an Adler dealer or where I'd buy the servo? The Adler dealer is 45 minutes from my shop and would save a lot of shipping charges because I'd have to ship the table too I guess or should I just call Cowboy Bob.

I bought this from an old friend that retired because of his health. The machine works like new, but my issue is trying to control the sewing speed. I'm in a wheel chair with no use of my legs or I wouldn't have a problem with useing the foot petal. I've tried a couple of modifications but keep having the same problems. I cant get a steady speed, it either goes like a bat out of hell or slows until it won't punch thru the leather with things I've tried so far.Will a servo motor fix this? Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you Troy and yes I know my shop needs cleaning lol

Lol, probably just snicker and walk on by wondering what kind of parade saddle that was.

Fredo, that looks good to me. The only thing that caught my eye was the thumb prints. I think maybe they would look a little better if they were walked a little instead of just stamping one impression. good job Troy

Michelle, I guess it's a matter of who your customers are. Mine are almost all working ranch cowboys and team ropers who put lots of wear and tear on there equipment 4 or 5 days a week working, practiceing, competeing, sweating, etc. If the stitching sits on top of the leather it gets rubbed a lot and frays and comes apart over time, this really upsets these fellows. They expect the leather to wear out before the workmanship. I learned this the hard way when they quit coming back to me and went elsewhere. Lucky for me my brothers and nephews let me in on the problem and I started grooving and eventually got my customers back. I repaired a 1954 championship saddle for a Mr. Moss ( he was inducted into the National Rodeo Association hall of fame in 2010) and the stitching was still in good shape sitting down in the grooves. I'm not saying British style is wrong or not pretty, I'm saying different styles for different uses. I was just giving Betabun my experience on the matter. Happy tooling, Troy By the way Al is one of my heroes too, maybe he taught it for the same reason.