Troy Burch

I took one of the tandy bevelers to my belt sander and steeped the beveler from toe to heel (not the width) then repolished it smooth. Works great for over the border beveling. It bevels deep but not way out on the border, similar to a bevel you get with an letter stamp.

I have a flat thin stick with rounded edges about six inchs long and 3/4in wide made from a hardwood with a slick finish. As WyomingSlick said punch holes at both ends and slide the stick in and burnish, kinda like useing a file. Before you sew the pieces together.

I think the beveled look is best on the over the border but it appears too wide. Did you use a figure beveler or a sheridon beveler? Maybe tip your beveler a bit to get a thinner bevel. looks nice

Sorry I was wrong. It does refer you to how to make holsters and after looking in that book theres nothing on that either. I went through every book I have on the subject and found nothing. It must have been in an article in a Leather Journal edition that I read about it. Gary's post is basicaly what was described to do, when it starts to get out of line just run the needle back through the same hole on the short side. Good luck, feeling foolish Troy

lol, I'll go to the shop and see which book it is for sure.

It would work the same as sewing the butt plug in a rifle scabbert. Al Stolmans book on how to make cases covers it, but someone on here can probly explain it.

I really like mine.

Yep, I live 20 miles from their factory outlet and it cost me 10 dollars.

About how much would a servo motor setup cost?

I'd like to see the alternatives also.

That's just one of several different styles of a camouflage stamp. You can find it anywhere leather tools are sold.

Al Stolmans how to make leather cases volume 1, 2 and three shows how it's done with about any case you want to make. He mitres the corners for square corners such as breifcases but he doesn't on round plugs, theres just no reason for it.

Tom heres a picture of the tape. These two rolls were given to me years ago, the old retired leather worker said he bought them in 1992. Terrible picture but I just used them on that scrap and it still works, sticks good but very dirty. It's Scotch plastic tape by 3M. It says Tape repairs, Decorate and identifiy on the label. Shouldn't be hard to find. Good luck Troy

I may be able to find out, I'll let you know.

Back in the seventys names on belts were very popular. They would take a belt that was already finished and put a type of colored tape across where they were going to put the name and stamp the letters over it. The stamp edge would cut through the tape and leave the letters looking like they were painted then you just peel off the cut out pieces. It looked very good and lasted the life of the belt. I don't remember what kind of tape it is but I've got a roll of brown and used it once to put a fellas initals on a used saddle, it came out great and he was pleased with it. It only takes a few minutes so the customer doesn't have to wait.

That looks nice. Was wondering what kind of bevelers did you use, figure bevelers or floral?

Belt blanks from tandy are prone to stretch. Their not very good leather. Pull them between your thumb and index finger and you'll likely feel broken spots inside.

Had a secound thought, What do you think about cutting the eagle out of the excess leather and letting parts of the tail and wing extend beyond the round? lol I'll shut up now.

Yep, Northmount's got it right. Grap your chain saw, find a tree that's the right wideth and make a long angle cut. It'll be worth the effort. I polyurethane mine to help keep the bark from coming off.

If you find that book there's a section on how to build a form for scoped rifles, I built one and it works great.

Saddle lac is readily available and is the same thing as neat lac. I don't know anything about Seiwa lacquer.

I use deglazer then oil dye, works great every time.

Them are some really nice looking knifes! I was wondering about the prices though because of the extra work you've put in with the file work, exotic wood, etc. I would love to have an extremely sharp skiving knife that holds an edge with just a occasional stroping but can you compete with the prices. I don't care about fancy I just want a very good sharp skiver. Naturally being a leather worker I'll be making my own sheath. Troy Also are they crynogenicly (spelling?) treated?

My burnishing machine and bench grinder both turn the same. I thought they were all pretty much standard that way. If your useing the top half it turns toward you the bottom half away from you. I guess if you wanted it the other way you could just turn the machine around.

I agree with everyone above. I have a electric motor with a shaft on both sides, one fitted with a burnishing dowel and the other side with a sanding drum, it will make your life easier. I have a dremel tool and a table top drill press, hardly ever use either.