Troy Burch

Check out Al Stolmans saddle making books volume 1, 2, and three. It's full of patterns for 3 types of saddles. Very easy to understand with pictures of each step by step instruction.

I replace alot of sturrip straps because the quick couplers have worn sharp and cut through the holes. Wondering if he wears an old buckle thats worn down the post?

I'm just guessing but could it be something to make round lace?

Mine was putting new fenders on my dad's roping saddle. The fenders were fine but the carving was terrible! He had a new saddle he had won but prefered his old one. Well after I "fixed" it he gave it to his 11 year old grandson and started using his new one. lol Troy

That looks awesome,I would have never thought you could get three shades of brown from black antique. lol, I'll be needing step by step instructions. How did you keep the gel from wipeing off to much with the blockout on it?

That looks real nice. I suggest you don't use supersheen or any high gloss finish, the light will reflect off of it to much and you'll only get a nice view in just certain areas of the room. I learned this the hard way and had to take them down and refinish them, except were you want the wet look, eyes, noses ect.. Looking at the picture it already has a nice sheen when light hits it. Troy

I bought a heavy duty pair of scissors from tandy, they were about 40 dollars 8 years ago. Mine cut 12 to 14 oz skirting like butter. not any good for inside curves but really easy on your hands

Deb, try right clicking on the article and and then click translate in the popup box. Troy

The Boss is great for repair work. Makes it easy to resew in the same old holes.

what book?

That's how I got started. These are a couple I done before I started learning about how to really work leather. there not done well but it was fun. My advice is to start out doing things you like and enjoy so you will look forward to the next one and won't get overwhelmed or frustrated.

I'm sorry, I should have addressed that before, I just didn't think about it. After the carving is finished and dry I take blockout (a resist and finish product from tandy) and brush it on the areas I'm going to paint then use one of my modeling spoons that has a sharp point on one end to pick and lift the feathers or hair etc. When you get them looking like you want just let it dry, the blockout will stiffen the feathers in place and then it can be painted without any problems. Only do small areas at a time so you can get it like you want it before it stiffens, be liberal with the blockout brush it on heavy.

I just used some cheep water based colors from hobby lobby, cova colors work also, they're thinned down so much it's not really paint anymore. I'd probly lose the stitching, but it's just personal preference. Have you thought about a tree round with the bark still on it instead of plywood.

Nice work! personally I think some painting will make the carving look better. The trick is thinning it just right to get the color while still leaving the leather showing thru. It will still look like a leather carving and give nice detail to the eyes and such. Here's something I painted a while back that might give you ideas. Troy

That's good news! I got so frustrated with my 5 year old Tippmann I bought an Adler about a month ago. I haven't tried to sell it because I didn't want to screw anyone over. That's the exact same problem I've been having, going to try that tomorrow, maybe I can sell it after all. I was very happy with it until then. Thanks Troy

I don't think your that far off. If you take away the shading on the tattoo it would look snoutish also. I think you may be cutting to far under the nostrol, instead of beveling there use your modeling spoon to burnish a shading to create the 3d illusion, same for the bridge of the nose on the uncut side. I learned with Al Stolmans figure carving finesse book also, he has several faces with good instructions in there. That was my first attempt of trying to do a complete carving, I practiced a couple of days with scrap pieces much like you've done. Good luck Troy

If you could show a picture of your practice piece it would be easier to see what mistakes your making. Trying to tool the shading is probly the problem. Here's my first attempt at a face.

endeavor to persevere

lol, yes sir. I'm whet stone incapable as well.

It takes time, but I use a swivel knife and then work it some with a modeling spoon, much more realistic.

You don't have to do all that skiving sir. bevel around the feather then use a surgical knife, laying the cutting edge fairly flat to cut under the edge of the feather all way around. cut it feather thin for one half inch or so and use thinner leather. it will make your fluff easier and better also.

Thanks for the help oltoot, I think my problem has been wraping the leather while it was still too wet.

Hi Bobby, I have a problem with my cased leather not drying equally. Some places will be ready to carve and right beside it will still be to wet. Dries splotchy, any suggestions? Thank you Troy

It appears to be a instructional carving much like you'll find in the tandy art gallery. They are left natural to show the tooling. I think it's an old carving that has naturally aged.