Rayban

That's a great looking rig.....I first heard of a BBQ rig while reading a book about the Texas Rangers....seems they wear the fancy stuff to special occasions. Usually the rigs are dripping with bling. The chicks dig it!

Hey I saw it in the Packing Iron book!! Congratulations!!

Are these the type polishing wheels you're referring to? http://cgi.ebay.com/DREMEL-FELT-POLISHING-WHEEL-1-2-LOT-2-414-/180501677794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a06bd06e2

I know guys who make knife sheaths and other such gear that look for "character marks" on leather......I guess it matches the rest of their work.....just kiddin.... I buy from W&C and if I buy the "special" side, I may get some not-so attractive looking spots on it, but not bad at all.......it costs about $25 more a side for one with no marks on it....so you may be buying from a similar offering........ I never end up with any sizable pieces however, I always manage to use it up in making things other than holsters.

I'm REALLY digging the Ruger bird/design on the first holster...I've tried doing that in the past and I sucked at it..I realize now that it's probably because I tried staying too close to the trademark design, instead of doing something more creative like you have done...... ...same with the holster design...you stepped out side of the box and I like that...looks badass..... Now go to your room and don't come out til you have matching belts for these bad boyz......

Lobo, as usual, you come through with a very thorough and insightful piece of info. Thanks much.... May I be your firstest taker on the wax/felt polishing wheel kit? I'm ready to roll with Dremel at arms reach. I also have a small drill dedicated for such chores... Thanks again, RG

Can you buy bars/cakes/chunks of 50/50?

Thanks, I figured 1-1/4" would be a good general purpose size.....works good for me.

I'm very disappointed with a source I thought I had found for these things (along with belt clips)...I guess they don't care for my small orders, but I'd rather they just tell me so instead of ignoring my phone calls and emails. Anyway, I'm thinking of asking a small water-jet cutting company to give me a quote on cutting out some thumb break stiffeners. I know in the initial run I'll get more of these than I'll ever use, so I would like to be able to pass these along to those who need them at cost plus mailing... What I'd like to know is the most common size used out there......I'm thinking 1/2" x 1-1/4", full radius at each end, with two holes, one at 3/16", and one at 1'4", .025 thick, in stainless. I'm not banking on selling any of these, but as long as I'll have a bunch, I may as well have the good sized ones available. What say ya'llz??

Before you lift the presser foot, make sure the needle is in the upward part of the cycle. I really slow it down when I approach the spot where I intend to turn or pivot, the last two stitches are done by using the hand wheel. At the last stitch, turn the wheel til you see the needle start it's upward movement, then make the turn/pivot.

I think what's happening is that because the punch is tapered, the ends of the slot are stretching when the top part of the punch passes the actual cutting edge....and if the leather is too dry, it will split there. I don't believe it's a bad idea at all to punch while the leather is wet....I don't mean dripping wet, just damp.

I have changed to this method as well...I was using it full strength out of the bottle but I was getting streaking (I quit doing that in the mid 70's).....now I need two coats of it b4 I'm satisfied with the finish, but no mo streaking.

Anymore I'm liking pancakes with the gun or mag molded out of the front panel, and leaving the back flat. More work because you have to let the leather dry before you stitch it up........but I'm liking the looks better.

On each side of your tracing, add half the thickness of the mag, plus the thickness of the leather. Say your mag is 1-1/2" wide x 1/2" thick. Your tracing is at 1-1/2", then on each side add 1/4" and 1/8" (8 oz. leather) So from stitch line to stitch line you're 2-1/4"

Cool stitching, you must set the outline of the gun after you stitch, correct?

How bout when you cut the pattern out, leave the shield part plenty over-sized, then as you're fitting the leather around the gun, you can just start snipping leather away til you have the correct placement, size and shape of the shield. No guessing involved.

Looking good Mad......I really like the looks of horse when you leave it it's natural color.

I agree with you about putting it on the back.......it would just be a waste of time and material....you would be way better off just sending it to me...

I like...good sturdy work, and design....can't help but wonder why he would insist on horse hide...what difference can it make for an IWB?

Here ya be....these magnets are 3/8" in dia. and 1/16" thick....and they are STRONG!!

It's steel, and there's a few magnets between it and base of the press. STRONG magnets, I have to really try to budge it.

It's sooo nice having a gun totin tool and die type in the neighborhood.....look what he should up with today.... A jig so I can edge stamp on the arbor press, and he wouldn't have to hear me pounding on a dead cow from a mile away..... I couldn't wait to try it out......it's GREAT!!

Looks very nice....why not stitch another line along the trigger guard where you scribed that line?

The nylon thread I use on my machine (277) takes dye pretty well.....if white thread is requested, I'll dye and finish before stitching. If I apply a finish after dyeing, some dye may bleed onto the thread with the sponge I use.

Before I make a belt for someone anymore, I send them this illustration. Just last week a fella asked me to make him a 35" ranger belt......I sent this to him, he responded...."make that 40" I tell them to send me their current belt size, not their jean size.