Jordan

Medically retired now, but I was a Psychiatric Technician in California for a long time, a Patient Rights Advocate, Computer salesperson, HVAC repairperson, Pool cleaner, Kiln unloader, Bartender, Cotton sorter, a short stint as a streetperson with no visiable means of support, Carpenter, Long Haul Trucker, Radio/Telephone/Fieldwire lineman for the government (Pershing Nukes Europe), Dishwasher, Cook, Heavy Equipment operator/ Public Works peon, a smattering of drug and alcohol testing in the old days, lots of other stuff that didn't pay good enough to pursue and of course leatherworking. I still want to try a few things, like backwoods self sufficency, grape growing / wine making, pottery, painting and to get good at playing the guitar. Looks like the backwoods thing may be soon, judging by the mess this place is in!........Jordan....Jack of All Trades, Master of a few of the more interesting ones!!!

Pretty funny post about corps losing sight. The people at the top forget what and who is generating the cash and they start walking around experiencing perpetual brain farts! You know there is trouble when their meetings have meetings to discuss who is bringing the dognuts to the next meeting!

Tidbit, Ebay, owns PayPal they absorbed it a couple of years ago very quietly. Used it once to sell a motorcycle, did not sell and never used it again, fees up the kazoo, The bike sold on craigslist to an out of stater, so while cl is usually local in coverage, it is available to a wide area. Any electronic transactions need added diligence, just seems too easy to get a raw deal. Maybe I'm old fashioned but I have never trusted electronic commerce in any form.

I guess I was trained young cause I have never reached inside a womans purse, Always gave it to her to find something no matter what. Guess it is one of those things like please and thank you and opening doors for ladies. And contrary to the scientists, black holes do not exist only in the vacuum of space!

Yes I meant gingher or more specifically the gingher clone that is sold by tandy and others, they work pretty well for me in most situations, sharp is the key. Injury with dull tools in any line of work, is almost always worse, not getting injured is best though.

I have used a variety of cutters, mostly Gingham shears and have found that as long as they are wicked sharp any of them will do the job. Some, you need a lot of practice and concentration (head knife, yes half moon evil looking thing) to make sure you cut only the leather item you want, not any of the all important body parts!

I was thinking of crossing/uncrossing my legs whilst settin in my favorite recliner. LOL, I don't get up too often once settled in but thought it would be a suprise if my shoes came undone when I had to move quick at dinner time! LOL Quite right though it would be a funny way to walk.

A silly question..... Should the button closures be on the outside of the foot to reduce the chance of undoing them while engaging in motor skills?

Welcome, besides photo's of your leather work, how about a few Classic Nordic recipes once in a while. . Enjoy your foray into leather and don't be afraid to ask questions, as these are a great bunch of leather aficionados (read leathernuts!)

I used a piece of saddle skirting (thick stuff!) from the scrap bin at tandy for the sole soaked beezwax in after putting them together. The footpad piece was 6/7 weight of scrap from some holster leftovers and the strap channels were dremel drum sanded into the sole to reduce the strap telegraphing through the foot pad. If I do another pair I would use the hidden stitch on the bottom that I read about in another topic. Also the rear strap loops need to be wider so they don't move back and forth so much, maybe wrap all the way around the heel. They are fun to make and are very comfortable once they form to the feet.

from experience, sand the edges flush before grooving, then the front and back will have a better chance of lining up. On the backside I found that grooving helps reduce friction wear of the stitches, esthetically I don't think it does much after all it is the backside and won't be seen much in use. Personal preference prevails in this case LOL

Great old chest, worth it's weight, they are not made like that anymore.

The Roy Utah store and staff are great. I think tandy did it right, as it seems most, if not all staff have the leather addiction like us, which makes for good sales and pleasant informed conversation. The only downside in my opinion is, they should carry some higher quality stuff like custom tools ( I hear rumors that the craftool stamps may be getting reworked) and sometimes the leather ain't so great.

A cup of coffee and a cinnamon role fresh out of the oven. And of course an extra dose of insulin to deal with the indulgence Other than that, the knowledge that the Saviour was born, is gift enough for me.

MacBeath Hardwoods, Woodcraft Store, Rocklers to name a few. There are ads for many more in Fine Woodworking Magazine.

Sweat guard will definitely pose a problem getting your hand around the grip, your thumb would have get between the leather and the grip. From what I gather the goal is to have the same grip on the weapon throughout the entire process of drawing it, that way more speed and less fumbling under pressure. Also the rear belt attachment as noted by Dan would probably benefit from a slight redesign so it will not interfere either. Looks good though, have fun with the design and build and be sure to post photos.

Luff Rife ain't it! The thing I don't like about the prong chisel I have, is the holes are too big and it seems to smoosh the leather all out 'o' wack rather than cut clean holes. I don't use it much.

Olo Bunce of Brockenborings Finde`cano Felagund Fun little diversion, my keyboard won't do ` properly, Jbird looks like we are both from Brockenboring and Utah

I think 90 looks about right, the others don't seem like they will look right with the straps. Just my visual opinion.

Surfing for hat patterns and came across a fun hat for the skull lovers it is made by Cobb & Co. in Melborne. I found it on Ebay. Hope they don't mind that I posted it.

Years ago I read an article in a model railroading book about using some formula to calculate the increase and/or decrease in the radius of a curve. That flap does look like the radius changes just before intersecting the straight portions. Your sample in the middle looks to be the closest.

I try to be about 1/4" or a little less from the edge. Which allows for the beveled edge not to crowd the stitch line and I found that the edge does compress somewhat towards the stitching after burnishing usually making it look ok.

All great advise, there is a tipping point as to where the weight of the weapon is in relation to the belt loops, if the weight is to high above the belt the weapon will tend to flop out away from your side and tend to twist the belt, all about comfort and ease of use, my scrap bin is loaded with experiments also. Nice thing is each one gets better.

Yes that is how most seem to be done. Unless you want more of the pistol to the outside of the holster which means the front panel is a bit wider than the back, at least that has been my experience. But I think there as many ways to do it as there are holsters out there! big help huh

I like the looks of the Lt. brown one in the second photo, has a cool clasp too.