Big Sioux Saddlery

I beg to differ. Lol.

If an item is lined, and the prongs of the spots do not show through on the back side, then the spots were set first, before the lining was stitched in. On narrow straps this is somewhat difficult due ro the configuration of the modern sewing machines such as the Cobra, Cowboy and other copies of the Juki 441. The old, true harness stitchers had a different feed system and narrower foot to allow for sewing close to spots AND close to an edge. There is an online foot available for the modern machines, but you lose lift capacity. Edited to add: on tack, I would not trust a liner simply glued in to stay in place for the life of the article.

Over 50% of my face to face business is paid for by check. Until very recently, you couldn't use a credit card or debit card to pay for items bought at an auction, and some auction companies probably still don't take cards. None of the Amish folks I deal with take plastic, with the exception of one wholesale supplier. Personally, I write only a half dozen a month or so, but around here, checks are still a very common method of payment, especially with the 40 and over folks and farmers.

There is so little information about the early years of the company, and as far as I know, no surviving records of machine serial numbers in reference to the year of manufacture. Your best bet would be if someone happens to have original documentation for a machine, and honestly, I would love to hear about that as well. A friend and I were just talking the other day about how interesting it would be to know the history of our machines: date of manufacture, original purchaser, etc. #2 and 3 needles are pretty large, and would not be used for general harness work. A #4 needle was the most common size used for general work, as evidenced by the scarcity of original needles in that size. #5 needles would be used for a little lighter work, while #6 and 7 for very fine work with light thread. New needles are available that will work in the machine, but they are somewhat different than the originals, and require some modification for heavier work. The top part of the shank diameter is smaller than the originals, and will more easily pull out of the machine in heavy work. It's not a good thing when that happens. I have two original lamps for the Landis #1 machines, and a couple of my machines still have the boilers on them. Once people quit using had wax, the boiler was something that could be dispensed with to reduce weight when moving the machine. There were small wax pots that were factory made for solution wax, and attached to the left of the tension plates under the bolt that goes through the pressure foot spring. My dear, you have no idea how deep that rabbit hole is!!

Most I have seen were one solid piece, a few pivot. I'm not sure at what point in time it was changed, nor why. To change the stitch length, you are suppose to put a screwdriver between the cam wheel #26 and the feed regulating arm #29 and pry to release the pressure on the ratchet nut. The handle on the hand wheel must be at the bottom when you do this. Sometimes on machine that has set for a long time, things are stuck and won't release. I have one I'm tearing apart right now that was completely stuck, and I can turn the feed regulator screw, but can't pry the arm #29 to release pressure. But it'll come eventually. If done correctly, there should be no clicking when you turn that screw. You need to have 3/16"- 1/4" of leather under the foot to be able to set this machine up. It was not made to sew lightweight stuff. When tuned and tight, they'll sew an inch. That is hard wax. Scrape out what you can, oven cleaner works to soften the rest up, but it takes awhile and repeated applications. Best of luck, I am having fun following your progress.

They live and breed amongst us.

Where are you located? I have bags and boxes full of scrap shearling from lining saddles.

Would you explain the reason for this please? I've never heard this before, but would like to hear why. Thank you!

I don't know much about the Champions. There was a wide throat harness machine, and a narrow throat machine similar to the American Straight Needle, and there may have been others. They aren't nearly as commonly seen around here. Parts, if needed will be difficult to find, like most of the other vintage machines. Hopefully someone else comes along that can tell you more regarding value.

You're welcome. I used Landis #1 machines exclusively for the first 15 years I was in business. I still keep at least one set up for special jobs. They are a very simple machine, and unlike most other heavy harness stitchers, are still capable of sewing when 3/4 worn out. It may not be a tight, pretty stitch, but they will still sew. A low hours machine, with little wear and set up original needles amd correct size bushings, can produce a finer stitch than any modern day threaded-needle machine. Keep us updated on how this turns out for you. Edit, Added as an afterthought:. See if you can find the serial number on the machine. It is usually stamped into the casting to the right of the presser foot bar, on top of the head. Its not of much importance, but does go some insight into how early or late of a machine it might be. Around my part of the country, the numbers seem to range from 3000-7000. Just recently I acquired #149. That is very early, and did not come from around here. I got it for the mere fact that it is such an early number.

Original, old stock needles for the Landis #1 are next to impossible to find, but the 331LR needles do fit the machine (kind of). They are a slightly smaller diameter where they clamp into the needle bar, so they tend to pull out of the machine on heavy work, when you least want them to. Also, the thread groove is not ground into the needle as far up as the old needles, which limits the capacity of the machine. If using a needle guide bushing of the correct size with the new stock needles, the thread binds in between the bushing and the top part of the needle and the thread gets snapped off. Work under a heavy half inch is fine; over that and you'll have to do some modification to the needle. Also, new needles are available down to 200 size, which means you aren't going to sew fine stuff. Thread size 277 and up is all most of the shuttles on these Landis #1 machines are capable of holding tension on anyway. There are a few key places to check for wear. . .needle bar, tension plates, shuttle itself, and basically any pivot point. The shuttle should have a nice, sharp, well defined point, and there shouldn't be evidence of having the needle smashed to bits on top of it. The top of the needle plate will give you some insight into how careful of an operator the machine has had as well. It is careless operation and using these machines dry, that does more way damage than daily use by a conscientious operator.

There was one for sale in Florida (?) awhile back. The rolls had an odd profile, unlike any other I've seen before. . .until this video. My interests lie mostly in harness an saddle making machinery, and I couldn't imagine what application the machine would have in my trade. After seeing this video, I understand that it would be useful for the belt trade. Raised harness straps have a different profile.

I have some pink chap leather, about 4oz or so in weight. It's close to the color of the breast cancer ribbon, in fact, I purchased it for a project for a survivor. I can get pictures if you are interested.

I wouldn't mind seeing those pictures also!! I'll pm you my email address.