The Major

ACHTULIEBE!!!!!!!!!! Its a crazy crazy world!

WOW! Absolutely fabulous!

Very cool.

Reptiles skinned alive? Have they ever seen someone try to skin a rattle snake alive? Personally, I feel these guys are just uninformed zealots. I think the cause that everyone should fight for is the fight for the rights of plants and foliage. The animal can run away, the plant is stuck there. So all the vegetarians are even more cruel than those others mentioned. I made this up years ago when I was confornted by one of these PETA folks at a party which resulted in a lengthy debate and me pointing out her nice leather shoes and handbag. (No offense to the vegetarians out there) There is nothing wrong with having an opinion and wanting to fight for a cause. I think some people just don't know what to fight for. Now don't get me wrong, I think people that abuse animals should be shot, but lets look at the bigger picture here folks. I have even less respect for PETA now than I did before. :fire:

Might also try David Morgan. http://www.davidmorgan.com/index.php?cPath=7_11_194 I have been very satisfied with the skins I have purchased from him.

LOL. I know the feeling. even after I actually stopped using my kitchen table and set up a work area I just can't escape it. While deciding on a bench to purchase, I was driving through my alley one night and what do I find...you guessed it...someones old kitchen table. Which now serves as my work bench. Works great. But I really would like a nice oak butcher block bench. (Hey Christmas is right around the corner right!)

Nice work.

Thanks! I used a fine swivel knife blade to cut the letters and rounded them off using my modeling tool. I used flat black acrylic paint with a very fine brush to color the letters.

Its been a long time since I posted anything. Been too busy with orders (yippie). Anywho. Here is a wallet I just finished for a client. She wanted a fire fighters emblem, but with a not so traditional twist. So this is what I came up with. I don't think it turned out too badly. I need to work on my lettering a little. The "halo" around the flames and emblem is intentional to offer a little shadow. It is all colored with spirit dyes, cept the white. Let me know what you think.

You are correct. A method I have found that works real well is to do the main color in several coats, thin out the dye and increase the color as you go, this hides the brush marks. Another thing that hides the marks is to color in different directions. The method you describe will work, but just make sure you trim your dauber. I like Peter Main's method of burning it to size, this also eliminates the fuzzies. It is also recommended you use a different brush for each color. And don't forget to use deglazer to open up the pores of the leather and clean the surface.

As Greg mentioned, The only way I know to accomplish what you are asking for is to do it with allot of applied patience and a detail brush. If you want nice looking flames and a contrasting background it has to be done with a brush very carefully. See the attached picture for an idea. Please excuse the crappy pics. The flames are nowhere the quality of flame that Jeff Mosby puts out (not yet anyway!) , but it will get the point across.

Well, for tap-offs you really dont need a deep mold. For those I use a piece of 10/12oz to make the mold cavity around the design. For tap-offs I dont use bondo, I use that acrylic plastic resin train modelers use for water, either the pre-liquid stuff or the stuff you melt is fine. If you want to use bondo double the thickness. For stamps. use the bondo. the rule I use is for 1 to 1 1/2" square stamps, your mold cavity needs to be a minimum of 3/8" thick. Bigger than that, I would increas it about 1/8" for every 1/2" larger your stamp gets. For molds I use mold cavities I machined , but you can also use vulcanizing molds that jewelers use for casting. You can also use wood, or leather. It really doesnt matter. As for the base design goes, your cuts need to be fairly deep. But also somewhat wide, so the bondo can penetrate in the cuts and details. And just dont forget to carve it backward. I will try to get some pics posted this week on how to do it. I am also trying to get a sheet made up on lace making. But I am still waiting for them to switch over to the 36 hour day so I can have more time. LOL Let me know if I can answer anymore questions if I didnt get specific enough.

Delivered was $1200. I have sewn many things with it from light weight 1.5-2 (vests) oz and double layer 10 oz (saddle bags, holsters, etc) with ease. I have not had any problems at all with it. I really like the height of the table he makes for it, it is standard height so a regular chair can be used. John the owner is very quick to respond with all inquiries, and tech support. That is really what sold me was his professional service.

Check out Leightons. I picked up one of their MACH 1's a couple years ago, and absolutely love it. Price isnt bad even with the freight from the great north. http://www.leightons.ca/index.html

I was beginning to think I was the only one lacing this way. It sure does make short work of it. This way everything is right there, no need to search for the needle and make sure its straight. Lacing seems to go much quicker this way too. Its funny, I actually had someone tell me once this method wont work. LOL Half hour later I was explaining it to them.

Another thing to consider when using roo or goat lace is its stretch. Most of the better roo/goat laces out there need to be stretched before use. Or if they are stretched they are stretched too much. Especially if you cut it yourself. You stretch it until there is about 2 inches of stretch in the piece. Now lubricate the lace with white saddle soap or parrafin wax and braid away. When those start to dry out, it will draw your braid nice and tight. This helps reduce the risk of a break from over stretch.

I have seen that process told in Stholmans books. And have been using it for years. I didnt know that point of not using Neat Lac on Oiled leathers cuz it will crack. Learn something new every day. Thanks for making that Dave and thanks Johanna for posting.

If you find a place let me know. I agree with you about its performance. I have resulted in cutting the lace myself when I need it.

The Encyclopedia of Leather Braiding is an excellent resource. Tandy and Hide Crafter both have it, it covers alot more than just lacing though. A smaller version is Leather Braiding doesnt have all the knots that the other book has. Both are by Bruce Grant. I dont think Tom Hall ever did a book on lacing. But if he did I would pick it up. All I've seen from him are his books on Turks Heads (Which are Excellent!) Tandy also has some smaller books on lacing. But all those techniques are covered in the above books.

I just checked out their ebay store, thanks for pointing me in that direction. I am definietly going to have to spend some money there.

Not sure who is aware, but have you seen the new e-books from tandy? They only have 3 out there right now, but I have been trying to get my hands on both copies of Leather and Wood for a while, and now I do. I am happy (for a while at least) Clicky Here For Info -> http://www.tandyleather.com/eBook/eBook.html Happy Tooling!

I can definitely agree that the creativity is squashed right out of them. Especially if they earn the merit badge at summer camp as most of the scouts do. The majority of the counselors dont show them what else there is to leather than stamping. a common misconseption is the kids just wont get it. Well I beg to differ. I have done several merit badge clinics for troops in my area, and do stamping projects for the merit badge. But I also do an advanced class in which I start the basics of carving. And once they figure out how to use a swivel knife, they turn out some reallly nice work and with refinement, I see future masters of the craft. I have attached a picture of one carving project. It looks rough to our standards, but it was done by an 11 year old. I guess what I am trying to say is dont be afraid to teach the advanced topics, they might like it. BTW at the end of my class, each kid walks away with a carved coaster, carved wallet with braided edges, and a moulded leather rose. The most popular is the rose. Happy Tooling

Thanks Dave! Appreciate the help

I am familiar with the process for edge braiding along an outside curve, but I am about to face a project that will force a braid along an inside curve. Do you handle these by subtracting a hole or two along this curve? Please let me know. Thanks

McMaster Carr also sell the components individually. http://www.mcmaster.com/