byggyns

try this page: http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/workman1/vol1k.htm there is a good image near the bottom. The one nearer the top is not a good scan. and here is a picture of the detail you're looking for http://yellowstoneranger.blogspot.com/2010/06/uniform.html

The distance from the stitching to the edge of the leather depends on the thickness. I've heard that you want to keep it about the same distance from the edge as the total thickness- in your case both layers. My general distance for the holsters I make is about 3/16". That is equal to 12 oz. of thickness. I like this even when I'm doing a slightly higher total thickness- farther from the edge looks chunky to me. If you are using 2 layers of 8 oz., then 1/4" for your stitch line is exactly right with that rule. When I took a holster class @ my local Tandy (how I really got started in leatherwork), they said that you want a minimum of 1/4" from your belt slot to the stitch line (outer stitching or stitch line for the pistol)- more if you are also doing a stitch line around just the slot. Since this is a mag pouch, and not a holster I think you can reduce all of the distances a little as the strain will be less. As far as fitting the mag in the pouch, I haven't done the exposed mags. I like a mag pouch with a flap secured by snaps or velcro, so my design goes much higher on the mag than you are looking at. Stitching distance from the mag body will vary depending on the amount of molding, thickness of leather, and the overall thickness of the mag. The thicker everything is, the further out the stitching needs to go.

Thanks for the info. It does look great, especially for a project done after such a short reacquaintance with the hobby. By the photos, it looks like you did not use a liner. Is that accurate? I'm still in the studying / planning phase of making my own bag, hence the questions. I hope to soon be in the "acquire supplies" phase.

OK, how about the details? what weight & type of leather? hardware?

well, here is a link to buying rawhide lace: here I've never done it, but one youtube vid I watched showed doing a mexican round braid with it. Not sure if you have to wet the lace, but I wouldn't think so. With it being that thin, I think it should move the way you need while dry. However, I've never done any lacing- at all, so take my info with that in mind.

Excellent job! I've been thinking of making something similar. Your step-by-step record will certainly help when I decide to take it on.

Having just started myself, I recently did my first paying project. A friend had seen some of my projects & asked me if I could repair the binding & replace the cover on her Bible. Having only done basic construction of holsters & sheaths. I had no Idea how to do it. I researched binding books, created a plan, bought the leather and made it happen. I only charged her for materials. It was a learning experience for me, and I've already had multiple requests from others to do the same for them. Word of mouth advertising combined with social media does wonders to get your name around. I'll have to post the pics from that to the show-off thread soon.

There are lots of recipes online for a beeswax , turpentine, mineral spirits mixture for waterproofing. I haven't used that on leather, but it should work- it works on canvas well. I have used a mix of neatsfoot oil & beeswax. I mix it about 2:1 oil to wax by weight. I'll tune it by adding more of either if the consistency doesn't come out the way I want. By adjusting the proportions, you can get it to a thick lotion / cream consistency with more oil, or a harder paste with more wax. I've toyed with the idea of adding shea butter or cocoa butter to smooth out the texture. It will darken the leather. If you use a heat gun / hair dryer to help it soak in, the leather darkens even more. I'm not sure about longevity. I haven't been doing it long enough to tell for sure. The recipe for Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner is Wax, Mineral Spirits and Petroleum Jelly acording to the MSDS. 10-15%, 15-35%, and 55-70% respectively.

Hi all, I wasn't sure where to place this, but I figured it would get the most traffic here. I have an old piece of family history: a USMC flight jacket that belonged to my grandfather. It is from somewhere in the Korea / Vietnam era, so I'm not sure if it is horse hide or cow hide. Any of you with knowledge into military issue items from that time, can you shed more light onto what the leather used was? The issue is there is mold / mildew on the jacket and it is rather stiff & dried out. I recovered it from a closet in the old farm house before they tore it down. What would be the best way to clean the mold / mildew off of it and then oil / treat it to make it wearable again? I have a cousin that could fit it and he would probably like to have it. My thought was saddle soap to clean and some olive oil to refresh the leather. I know that neatsfoot would probably darken it more than I would prefer. Would this work, or should I look into other options?

Thanks for this info. I was not aware of that. Is this true for both leather and metal plate? I would think that it may make more of a difference with the harder metal plate. But, I am neither an anthropologist nor an archeologist, I just like history.

The upper layers should always go outside of the lower layers. That way as a weapon (sword, axe, mace, etc) is swung it will not catch on the edges of the pieces. Weapon swings are almost all in a downward direction (overhand). Typically, only thrusts come up from underneath. Underhand swings are not a very natural movement, and because of the muscle groups used to execute, are weaker blows. They also leave the warrior more open to counter attack.

You might want to talk that customer in to a cross chest / bandolier type of holster, especially with the longer barreled (9.5")model. I have an average length torso & a 50" chest and my 7.5" 44 mag filled up the front of my hunting jacket with a nylon bandolier holster. If I had the scope on it, it would be even worse. That is just a B F pistol.