sbrownn

I agree. Most writers/artists try to put forth their thoughts in as few words as possible. If all you are trying to say is "Cowboy" then no one can mistake your statement for anything else.

IMHO...I think putting your maker stamp on the front of the holster takes away from the look you were trying to achieve. Everything flows nicely towards the toe of the holster until it runs into the stamp.

thanks

Actually...I read on one of the tool websites that the bevel goes towards the straight edge to compensate for the angle of the wrist when cutting. When I experimented I found the statement to be true for me.

Got it. That makes more sense.

Yeah, I agree and I don't even blame the tribe all things considered.

If you can get by without a round knife there are lot's of single bevel knives out there in both left and right hand configurations.

I'm running a Campbell Randall with a servo and speed reducer and it has a monster flywheel so I'm guessing you would probably be all right. A lot depends on how slow you want it to run.

My 206rb-1 seems to be only getting around 4SPI at maximum when the manual says around 2.5 should be maximum. Something wrong with this statement? Are you sure you didn't mean it the other way around?

Well...that's probably because I screwed up and failed to post it. My fault, not yours. https://www.amazon.com/Autodesk-Fusion-360-Beginners-Modeling/dp/1086599500/ref=asc_df_1086599500?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588513703&hvnetw=&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115045215&psc=1

Here is a link to an instructional book. I haven't done this particular book but I have found that the step by step instruction books are the quickest and easiest ways to learn CAD. Once you download and install the program you could just purchase the book and give it a try. It all really depends on whether or not you enjoy the process. The designs like I created are really quite simple to do and even the most basic books would give you the skills to do them. After that it is simply a matter of saving your file in a format the printer can read (STL) which involves just the push of a button, and then giving it to your printer to read...presto...it makes the part. The parts I used in my project took less than 5 minutes to print.

Didn't know that but since it's not something I'm selling it's probably not an issue for me anyway.

I've tried lots of things but these days the only thing I put on leather is Skidmore's Leather Cream.

I'm not sure what the plastic is but if it's PLA then acetone won't dissolve it. In addition, the heating in the muffle furnace fuses the metal together. In any event I don't have a muffle furnace so it's moot for now.

Are you sure it isn't the units you are using? Maybe it was designed in millimeters and Cura is reading it in inches?

Has anyone done any printing with PETG filament?

I'll probably be switching over to PETG filament as its somewhere between ABS and PLA.

I agree. I used to do all of my printing in ABS because I was concerned about strength but after changing over to PLA I have to say I don't see a difference in strength but PLA is way less problematic to print.

Well actually the 3D printing itself is pretty simple as the machine is easy to operate once you have made the file for it to read. Making the file is a little more complicated but nothing you couldn't learn in a few days. I think Fusion 360 is a free program and although I use SolidWorks I think they are pretty similar. I taught CAD design in a University engineering program so I did have a leg up in that aspect.

Yes, I've done some printing with copper. The problem for me is that there are some additional tools and work needed to make it actually look like metal. Most of the metal filaments are about 60% plastic and 40% metal so you have to burn out the plastic in a furnace and then you have to sand and polish the remaining metal otherwise it doesn't look much different from plastic. I tried finishing some copper pieces without burning out the plastic but found the work necessary to bring them to a shine was really time consuming and maybe not even possible with so much plastic still there. I didn't try an orbital sander but that might be a possibility.

Thanks. For anyone interested the parts were printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and are 0.02" thick. The clearance between the inlays and the outer parts is 0.017". I wish there were some other materials in a wide array of colors that could be 3D printed besides plastic but for now I'm just experimenting with the technique.

I think the Marine one looks the best.

Just finished my first 3D printed inlay for my guitar strap. The inlays are set into a debossed pattern on the guitar strap. The inlays are based on the New Mexico Zia and the design of the torch from the Preston Thompson guitars.

I haven't found anything yet that "holds up" over the long term and I've tried about everything but I haven't tried the ironed in hot beeswax so thanks for the tip.

I'm sure it would.