sbrownn

I have found the difference in quality great enough to make Buckleguy hardware the choice for me. I guess it depends on what you are making and who your customer is though.

I think one layer of 3/4 is pretty thin for a 4x8 table top. I like to use a double layer of countertop quality particle board when I build workbenches. It makes a heavy and strong bench top that will support any machine tools you need to put on it and stand up to any serious pounding you may need to do in the course of your leather work. I glued and screwed the top and bottom sheets together and where I needed a wider top I biscuit joined the edges and staggered the joints. The countertop quality particle board finishes off nice with a router so you can round off all of the edges and sharp corners. I finished mine with two coats of clear polyurethane and after 20 years it has held up great. Just my two cents...

Totally agree. Make flip flops and then all you need to do is cut the sole to the right size.

I have a hardly used Cobra that I will sell for $1000.

"I'm not a fan of Chinese imports." You mean all of them regardless of their quality? Nobody is judging you here, we're all friends.

Nope I suggest you do a little asking around about the Cowboy and Cobra machines so many people on this website own.

Is there a quality issue with sewing machines made in China? I thought all of the 441 clones were made in China. I've never heard anything bad about them.

Why would you use anything else? That's what it is specifically designed for...lubricating gears.

You don't give any specifications on the air flow and pressure necessary to run the vacuum system so no one can tell you the minimum compressor size needed, let alone source you a quiet one.

The heat comes from compressing the air; the motor heat is insignificant by comparison.

I think you should donate some to the animal shelter and give the rest away.

Are you going to finish the edges or is that the final product?

And I think it's better to separate the two operations. It's a lot of work, clean it and then condition it and use a specialized product tailored specifically for each step.

Indeed Dwight...good choice. The Weaver Cub could be modified to put a servo motor on but you might as well just buy a Cowboy 3200 because that's where you will probably eventually end up anyway. Unless you need to sew in a place with no power the hand operated machines are too close to the price of a motor operated one. As you branch out into other items you might find yourself with a lot of straight sewing runs which will make you wish you had a motor. I do a lot of guitar straps and when I get to the end of the straight run I just run the machine by hand to get through the complicated end curves and then its back to the motor.

Cowboy 3200 with crank handwheel.

My rawhide mallet has ends that are replaceable.

I have one. It might be good for watch strap holes but I don't make watch straps so I never use it.

Rather than using a drill bit I just chuck my punch in the drill press as it makes a much cleaner hole.

Excellent reply.

You didn't say what particular problems you are having but with the set up pictured you should be able to successfully set any of the snaps shown. My guess would be that once you have selected the correct die for the snap you are setting then it's just a matter of setting the pressure. The quality of the snap you are using also makes a difference; they aren't all the same even though they may look the same.

I've successfully molded chrome tan by sticking in in the microwave for 15 seconds before I put it in the mold. I'm not sure what the heat does but it definitely makes a difference.

Thanks

It doesn't appear as if the pressure range has much adjustability. Is that so?

Does stropping make the blade sharper? I guess it depends on your definition of sharp but IMHO it is definitely sharpening. The handle accepts all sorts of blades and I have found it to be very useful.