sbrownn

I don't know what your budget is but you can buy a 12"x12" printer for less than $400. I have made lots of templates by gluing pieces together to get the size I needed. The thing I like about using CAD and a 3D printer is that you can make everything exact. I especially like for all my curves to be tangent and it is easy to make them so in CAD.

I thought it looked like some of the edges had been rounded as well as beveled but I guess not.

I don't see why you need a flat bed machine.

Excellent. The only thing I might have done differently is either reduce the stitch tension or increase the spacing to make the stitching show up more as a part of the design.

Learn some simple CAD and buy a $200 3D printer and you can make all the PLA or ABS templates you want. You can learn that kind of CAD in a couple of hours and then the 3D printer does all the work.

I made 50 fly wallets once for a benefit auction and used wool and spray adhesive...worked just fine.

Nice looking holster. If I were sewing it, I probably wouldn't pull the stitches so tight. I especially like the rounded edges. What did you use to do that?

I have had the best luck with studs and a slotted hole. I hardly use snaps at all anymore.

I have tried almost everyone and so far I think that the Chahin leather from American Leather Direct is the best option. The thicknesses are accurate and the back on all the leather, split or not, are pasted. Yes there is some inconsistency but for me it's not been enough to make a difference. If you ask for a split, as opposed to buying already split and pasted, you are going to be subject to the vagaries of whomever is doing the splitting and will probably get no pasting. I think the backside of leather work is important. I don't want crappy looking stitches and I don't want fuzzy looking split leather that I have to paste myself.

Very nice job on a "treated" leather edge. I prefer my edges be left to show the natural "end grain" color of the leather, but to each his own.

I have been using Chahin bridle leather from American Leather Direct and with even the heavier weights with a pasted backside there is no "loose stuff" to worry about. Yes, I do get your point because I have used a lot of different leathers and many do have the "loose" issue even with pasted backsides. I have not found that to be the case with Chahin bridle leather and that is what I use almost exclusively these days.

The bag has a wonderful used patina; just consider the ink spots as part of the patina that comes from use?

Why don't you just borrow the clients p85?

Yes, I've gotten to the point that I won't buy leather that doesn't have a pasted backside.

Really nice job.

That is really nice craftsmanship.

I think they look very nice. I especially like the one with the colored background.

Oh, I see. The wax mold for a brass casting is what is 3D printed.

I wasn't aware brass could be 3D printed. Thanks

I've been wet molding colored bridle leather for years. It works just fine. I have also molded harness leather and latigo by putting it in the microwave for 15 seconds before molding. The heat softens up the oils and waxes for molding and when they cool they stiffen and help the leather hold its shape.

Why don't you just order some black leather?

Wow that is very nice. I love the choice of artwork.

I understand and you are welcome.

I think lighter weight leather would be just as durable, would mold better for the pocket and look more proportional on something this small. I think your edges would look "more finished" if they were beveled before you polished them. I'm not sure it makes any difference, but I think the snaps are usually mounted with the female piece on the flap. I think it would look better if the stitching were just a little bit further from the edge. Perhaps the flap would "look better" if it were rounded to match the outline of the sheath pocket instead of being squared off. Thanks for being open to suggestions.

Are you open to suggestions?