sbrownn

That is absolutely beautiful work. What filament did you use for the conchos?

If this is something you are selling and that wetting with water and burnishing won't fix, then either reduce the price with the customer's approval or start over; if it is something for yourself then don't worry about it. Customers pay for the quality of your leather work so it's up to you what you want that quality to be. When I am making an item for a customer that I make a mistake on I usually just start over and give the one with the mistake to the customer for free.

What kind of wood are they made out of?

Nice catch Frodo.

I understand.

rckt1rcn was using a "round knife" or somethin similar which indeed would probably work better pushed...I'm not so sure I would push a sharp pointed X-Acto knife though; it's geometry is designed for pulling.

Unless it's a round knife...ever try pulling a round knife?

Yes.

I have one of the lasers pictured and it works just fine. I haven't used it 1000 times yet though.

"b. pure turpentine is made from the resin of pine trees" Oh yeah, that's right.

I'm not familiar with a "dubbin" type polish but if it rubs off on clothes it seems like you could rub it until it doesn't rub off anymore. Isn't that basically what you do with most shoe polishes? I am really hesitant to use petroleum based thinners and removers on leather; for the most part because I have had poor luck with them.

That's interesting that the shoe polish rubs off on your clothes. I have no idea what is going on but I've never had shoe polish that was on shoes rub off on anything. I suppose it might if you didn't finish your shoes off with a brush or rag though.

You mean the pocket for the knife? It is at the front when worn on the right side. The sheath he has used for a decade is similar to this design and shows a lot of wear but the unlined knife "pocket" never seemed to be an issue, at least not one he was concerned about when we redesigned the sheath. I have over half a dozen 3D printed molds and templates I created to form and make this piece and one of them was 3D printed model of the knife that was used as a basis for the mold design so the knife fits in its pocket perfectly.

The fixed blade knife is a TOPS Street Scalpel.

I can't remember what the fixed blade knife was but they probably use the knife for the same purpose as the small crow bar that you use. The flashlight is for getting around in the orchards they are pollinating at night.

One slot is for a non fixed blade knife, the second is for a Leatherman Wave and the third is for a small flashlight.

I made some of these knife/Leatherman/flashlight tool sheaths for a local bee guy. They were designed to hold the specific tools he wanted his "people" to use. He is an absolutely wonderful employer who gave them the sheath fully outfitted with the tools to his employees for Christmas. In total I made about 20 of these using 3D printed patterns and molds. I get about $125 apiece for them and he adds another $250 in tools. Boy Howdy what a great employer he is to give Christmas presents like this!

It sounds like from your post that this finish is "soaked in". If it is truly "soaked in" then I don't see how any surface removal techniques will remove it. Soaking leather in something like acetone may work but it seems like it would remove all the oils and fats used in the tanning process rendering it just a floppy piece of "cardboard" leather. First question: Why do you want to remove it? Second question: How about you accept the color that it is and instead try to figure out how to make it look and feel better?

That's a really nice bag. I like the soft leather and the lining.

Buckleguy sells thin leather in small pieces.

Yes, I agree with both of those modifications. The other thing you might do is round the sides at the top to give the flap a little curvature to seal against.

The only thing I might mention is the unfinished edges on the flaps. It would be easy enough to bevel and polish them. Also...a line of stitching around the edges of the flaps would look nice.

It would be helpful if you included a picture.

I've never had it Aquilim go bad however I have had Weldwood contact cement go bad, probably from freezing and it behaved just as you are describing.