sbrownn

Generally snap installation instructions show the female part of the snap going with the cap so the back of it can sit down inside the cap. The male part of the snap and its corresponding rivet both have flat faces that mate. It doesn't really make a difference on how the snap works but I've found that if I install the cap with the female part it makes the flap fit tighter to the body minimizing the "snap gap" which I personally prefer.

I think your sheath would benefit from some beveling and burnishing of the edges.

What? You posted just fishing for complements or would you like some critique?

I don't consider mistakes to be a waste of either time or material. No one learns anything without making mistakes.

You can buy Tiger Thread on small spools.

Continuously but only for belts not for any horse stuff.

I once saw a pair of expensive Harley Davidson leather saddle bags that were turned into a floppy mess doing it just the way you said not to.

I rarely use neatsfoot oil at all anymore; usually only when I want to soften up something. IMHO it softens and darkens the leather too much. I like Skidmores Leather Cream. When applied by hand it warms up, thins out nicely, soaks in and buffs up to a nice semi glossy sheen.

I think the appearance of thread overlapping the edge is unattractive. I usually just continue my stitch across the belt below the buckle slot and back down the other side.

That was great. Was that from a pattern you made?

I looked just the other day for white dye and couldn't really find any so I used white paint without thinning. In retrospect I think thinning it would be a good idea. Some of the dyes, turquoise comes to mind, are so non opaque that they are difficult to use short of dipping as it takes so many applications to get it to cover. Obviously dipping for small colored areas is a non starter.

Even if that were true it wouldn't mean the quality of the two buckles is the same. Many manufacturers produce the same or similar items for different price point markets. I have purchased buckles from both suppliers and I haven't found the quality to be the same.

Excellent question directly related to the torque claim.

nevermind

Those are nice looking. On average how much do you charge for one of them?

I have had good luck with the large bed Any Cubic. Diagonally you can print something up to 20" long if it isn't too wide.

The motor is drawing too much current. See how easy it is to turn over by hand and look to see if it is binding up somewhere. Did it work okay prior to your sharpening it?

Does your skiver have a separate fuse or is it blowing a fuse in a panel?

That is probably the case but I haven't been a bit dissatisfied with the quality of the sides I get or the price I am paying for them.

I haven't found that to be the case with the vendors I use and if I was buying from a vendor that I thought was doing that I wouldn't buy any more leather from them.

I doubt the quality has changed but the price probably has; you might be getting a grade advertised as 2 that may previously have been 3. What you used to pay for grade 1 is probably what you pay for grade 2 and 3 now. In order for manufacturers and suppliers to maintain their customer base and keep up their margins I wouldn't be surprised if lower quality sides were selling for the same or higher prices that were previously charged for higher quality sides. Manufacturers often lower the quality of what they are producing/selling so they don't price themselves out of the market. It's probably a double edged sword as some customers are put off by the lower quality but I'm guessing the manufacturers/sellers have done their homework and know it is to their benefit to lower the quality and keep the price the same.

I'd probably stretch it on a rack

What is the shape of the piece you want to stretch?

Anything can be stretched and your piece of leather is no exception.

Thank you for the pictures. I particularly like the idea of storing leather in the sonotubes and your tooling bench looks awesome.