Hidemechanic

I don't know Randy, You may prove my reasoning wrong, but I think the carwash is too much water and too much presure(unless you leave it on low). My consern would be that the wool being soaked would dry so slow that it would allow the rott process to take effect. With the condition of some saddles I would only want to do a sponge bath on anyway. Just sounds like too much water to me, but proof is in the puddin I guess. May Dad's St.Bernard used to love getting a bath at the carwash. Woohoo!! G.H.

Doto, I had a hard time at first setting repair rates, I found an old Capriola rate list and adjusted it for the day. Then once I started doing more repairs, it didn't take long make any adjustments. If I felt something wasn't worth it I would explain why. Some jobs get done for sentimental reasons,I tell them anything done will be cosmetic and not intended for use. Nowadays we probably need disclaimers and release forms for such jobs. For stirrup leather replacement rates for example, if I order a set v.s. if I cut a set.I may adjust the rate (try to cut my own though it's more labour I control the quality) Either way I still clean them up and edge and burnish, and will add $ if I match color. Anyway, I agree that the value of the saddle being repaired has no baring on what it costs to repair it. Besides, it should be worth more when I'm done with it. If someone is having you fix it up to re-sell it, it still costs what it costs to fix it up, but the question is will the owner be able to get your repair cost and their cost out of the saddle when it's ready to sell? Ryan's suggestions have worked for me and makes things simple. Good Luck. G, Hackett

I like the name too, has a good ring,,lol. GH

Pete, In some cases that's part of the fun is trying new things. Frankly, I was tought to use bees wax for burnishing, so when I saw another saddle maker in town using bar saddle soap and I just never got the hang of it. What I think is a determination as to what compound to use for burnishing is related to what method you use to burnish. I spent a year or two burnishing by hand with a folded piece of #2duck canvas. I have delt with an artheritic condition since I was a teenager which was aggrivated by the things I did with my hands so I stated looking for other ways to burnish. I finally baught a soal finisher which had a 4 1/2" block of hard wood turned round with grooves in it. Now it sits in a less convinient location so when I have smaller projects that don't warent using the big finisher I use a dremmal. There is a tool attachment that has a little rubber drum(for sanding) with a washer and screw to hold it on. I removed the rubber drum and made a leather one about an inch round. I grooved it and have used it for years to burnish smaller items. Sometimes I have to rub the edge first with beeswax, in my case, add some to my little burnisher the get after it. I haven't read all the posts about burnishing hear so it may have been mentioned that burnishing on the dry has the same effect as stamping on the dry causeing the burnishing effect.(needing some moisture) Those who have other devices will have good results with other compounds. I think the differences is sucess may be in the combination of material used for the burnisher and it's speed, and the compound and how it responds to the friction that is developed by the speed of the tool. One other factor is probably the way the crafter finesses it all. I probably just never got that part down with the bar soap(glyserine). You may want to play around with different things just to see what you like better. If something that works for you, you stick with it. Part of the personallity of the craft. Hope that's helpfull. G.Hackett

Okay, I'll just sit in the corner here with Lippy wondering why I never get the girl,<;,

Greg, what do you no compredo? GH

You guys are sooo right. I've always threatened to hang a sign that says"This is not K-Mart, and the cutomer is not always right!!" It takes a certain amount of tact to deal with people that 'know' they know more about your job than you do. As for the flex tree, I can't speak for Steele Trees but I thought they only sold in volume to the prodution out fits. Now Ralide does too but If you know what you want when you call you may get a sample tree from them(free). Just dont' tell them I told you. Anyway, I got one from them that is what they call their flex-tree and it would make a good barrel tree.(it's a variation of the other recipe but has flex to it) It's been my experience that every gimmic has it's limitations, and myself trying to find other ways to do things to accomadate those with special interests or disciplines, I have found that there are really few changes that you can make from the standard. Some things work on some horses and not on others. Kind of like and un-named flex tree on the market, you either like it or you hate it, it either works for you or it doesn't. Solid wood trees have been tested for over a century and are still being used with little improvement made to them. I struggled with raising prices as my quality improves because I for one thought too much about economy, and second having confidence that the pride and quality of workmanship that I put into my product is well worth the higher price that some people get all offended over. That, in and of itself gives me the right to be offended that someone would presume that I (or you) should take a pay cut or cut the quality of our product to make them feel better about buying from me(us). What's the best way to handle those people? You might say," don't dothat sort of work maybe you could talk to what's his name down the road, but I could show you what I do if you are interested. Maybe that's another good subject to persue in another thread. Best wishes, G. Hackett

I agree with Randy. In my experieces with BooBoos, using anything to remove glue that will thin it will just make the spot worse or at least leave a spot that you have to get real creative with, and you still have to live with something you know is there. An old timer told me a long time ago that the mark of a good craftsman is how well he covers his mistakes. As to removing glue from grain surface I too wait till the glue is on the dry. Sinse I use sheepskin scrap for spreading glue I usually have a dry patch laying around so I use that for lifting glue off. It's rubbery and sinse that's how these glues work(assembling when on the dry) the dry glue patch will adhere to the glue spot and Usually lift it off. Sometimes you need to "role" it off meaning lightly rub from one side to another,like erasing just in one direction. Good luck. G.Hackett

Beeza, Let me encourage you to hang in there, but go at it from a different perspective. First, the spot you are in right now is why those of us doing leather (or any craft)work for a living need to have contact with others in a simular trade. It helps us stay fresh and encouraged, keeps us on track and stimulated. Not to mention keeps our mind open to other avenews to perpetuate our business which is our end goal. I'll try to keep this short, but part of the decline in sales for me was not getting out to shows and events where prospective clientell go. I'm not implying you are sitting around, you obviously have contacted mags for adds, maybe even going to shows. Yes things are slow all over right now. There has been a big boom in the economy, in your case, everyone had to buy a freeking harley to fullfill a 'dream' they couldn't back when most were too dorky or broke to pull it off. But now, besides the ecomomy which varies across the country, there are wives putting their foot down, or guys that can't handle the bike and don't want to admit it. There are higher motorcyle accident rates now and many other factors that are causing a decline in motor cycle sales in certain ares. These things are normal for any busines as they deal with the fluctuation of the economy. That to say that the 'Economy' is levling itself out. In my opinion, things are cooling off, but there will always be an interest in bikes. The tough part is you and David and other seat makers are in a 'nitch' industry. You have to capitalise on that nitch. If you keep your quality up and stay active with the related nitch mfg.s(OCC, BMC,other custom chopper mfg.s) you will increase your odds of being one of those that become at least as stable in that industry as the industry is. One thing I did learn though "Don't put all your eggs in one basket", DIVERSIFY, keep yourself open to other persutes to maintain a balence but don't be too quick to bail when things slow down. Hang in there, step back, see if there is a different way to go about the same thing. Good Luck. G. Hackett P.S., I love the heck out of Big Daddy Ed Roth and the Rat Fink Squaud, that's another nitch! Please pardon the spelling errors, spell check isn't working for me.

In case anyone caught the mention by David Genadek in the 'floral carving' thread about Bob Brown design technique, There is a Bob Brown Portfolio for sale on ebay for 3 more days. Some fantastic design and art history in carving for those who like to add to their collection of sources. G.Hackett

Just curious, why no throat latch on the bridles?GH

I agree with gstrydr, other than mechinised tools, if you use them all the time and put them up when done there is no issue with rust and little issue with lubrication. I have 75 and 100 year old tools that have no rust and probably haven't been near a drop of oil in 50 yrs or better. The only things I have had rust issues with are things that didn't get put up properly or were stored incorrectly. I oil the heck out of my stitchers, finisher and once in a while my splitter and crease roler, but hand tools for the most part non't get the kind of use that requires lubing. My 2 bits.G.H.

Suggestion. I use my hand drill a lot for simular things and auto run can be too fast for most things(high speed burns leather). One day I grabbed a small strap that had a buckle on it, I wrapped it around the drill handle and triggar and could set the speed with tightness of the strap, can be a little trick but slower speeds usually yield better results. I learned the hard way that BURNishing didn't have anything to do with charred edges, not mention it stinks. Happy trails. G.Hackett

Hay Billy, I'll jump in since it's been a couple days. First off, never hate to ask questions, I have questions I'll be asking that others think I should know but if you haven't had an occation to need to know then you gotta ask when the occation does arise. I think that's what this board is all about. Most folks are self taught and don't have the luxury of having a mentor near by. If you are charging for your work then you just saved yourself a trunk load of headache by asking. Now I'll tell you what I do which is not to be confused with the only way to do it. I do a light oil before adding stains or dies. My reason is because virgin leather is ready to soak up anything at a fast rate. Meaning that when you first touch it with your sreading instrument, that place is going to soak up more than the rest of the leather in that stroke. A light oil coat will make those fibers not so thirsty and allow you to get a more even distribusion of color. I'll leave the finish coat to others except to say that I use TanKote or the like, but there are seat makers on here that can tell you what holds up better to weather and hairy legged biker butts. Good Luck, G.Hackett

Since no one has responded yet, I'll give you my 1/2 of 2cents and it my not be worth that. You are better starting out with lt. brn and going darker or strait to black, but chome tan is pretty much what it is because of the tanning process.(I would go spirit rather than water because chrome tends to repell, but I've never used water base so I can't say for sure) Let me admit that there are others out there that have way more experience in dieing than I, but I just haven't had much luck trying to change chrome. The main issue for me is if the artical made with chrome leather was going to get a lot of use and exposure then the new color may come off (only the top grain will want to take the die)and you'll have a nasty looking piece. Maybe my less informed coments will stimulate others to jump in with more qualified suggestions for you. Good Luck. G. Hackett P.S. Do a test piece. Rub it role it bend it beat the living daylights out of it and see how it reacts.

On another board dealing with vehicles, we've noticed a couple guys just from there that have found ways to on ebay to use camofaged user names to artificially inflate bids. Computer gurus can track them down and expose them but by then the damage is done and ebay evidently can't or won't act on it. As usual, you put safe gaurds in place and someone finds a way around it. Be suspect and know your prices. Best wishes G.H.

Looks good to me Clay. I'll mention a couple ideas too. It's the same as your wife's. And you can't replace playing with your kids so if leather work has to take a back seat,well. Anyway, walking away is something some of us have a hard time doing when it's the smart thing to do. #1 when in the middle of a project things start getting tense it's not always wise to try and work through it or you wind up with a heap of scrap leather. You have to know the difference between being on a role from getting roled over. #2 when you get near the end of a project, don't stay too long nit picking. Step away and ask yourself if the nit you're picking is something the average viewer will notice. Better yet, ask you wife to look at it. Ask her, " what if I do this or do that?", she'll usually say,"looks good to me honey", or "well how about you do this, then stop?" The best seats I've put in saddles have been the ones my wife helped me fine tune. #3 as to drafting pats, I've done a version of what Blake mentioned, in my case, even if I have something that needs to be a specific size, I decided that if I start my draft either smaller or larger I by bass the need to work in the details that can come together later. Those darn details get in the way sometimes. I also found that I can use a dry erase board with a broad tip pen for general shapes for vines and brabches and a fine tip later for general details. The old addage works,"sleep on it". You'll find yourself dreaming about a project and an idea will wake you up and you jump out of bed looking for something to draw with and your wife thinks the house is on fire. Good luck. G. Hackett

JAN-FEB----MAR-APR----MAY-JUN----JUL-AUG----SEP-OCT----NOV-DEC 1 2 3 4 5 6 1999---- 4 ? 6 2000---- 1 ? 3 4 5 2001---- 3 4 5 6 2002---- 1 2 3 4 5 6 2003---- 1 2 3 4 5 6 2004---- 1 2 3 5 These are the issues I have, They all have pat p/o. The two with ?s show a little ware, the rest are in nice shape. They are out of their sleaves so they come as is. I would like to keep the full sets together if we can. Contact me with any questions. Still trying to get the wife to spring for a new camera, hopefully starting a new job next week sooo, maaybee. Then I'll get pics on here of the dies and some aluminium templets I have.

D.A., I don't know any other excalamations other than expletives without sounding repetetive. I like that you were able to capture the feel of the early toolers while using a somewhat contemporary design. That's something I have been looking for as in recent years, I have come to feel that many designs have become alomst redundant to me,that's just me. It's been a source of frustration for me while attempting to come up with a fresh twist on things. You pulled it off!! If you are still answering questions about this saddle, did you do a hidden stitch on the back of the cantle binding or a stitch and roll over? Way to go good man. G.Hackett

Spending a lot of time with 4-H and saddle clubs I have gotten in the habbit of trying to educate people as to how the treat their horse and their equipment. Suggesting the they incorporate a few minutes for cleaning and inspection of their horse and their gear. I explain how it can help avoid problems on the trail, as well as add life to their tack which translates into saving money replacing things that ware out prematurely. Makes sense to some, others don't care if it looks like it was 'drug behing a truck'. In my case I am able to set a saddle outside,(exept winter) and drag the hose out, I do want to add thought that you never want to 'soak' the leather, just enough to get the job done. The only thing I do extra before washing is using an air hose to blow the dinglebarries out of the nooks and crannies. You'd be surprised how much junk you'll find hiding in there. Helps fluff up the wool too. It has been my experience from cleaning and repairing hurds of saddles just for one dude ranch(of course they own 5) especially the saddles drilled for strings, juniper and pine needles find their way through the holes in the trees and settle at the bottom between the tree and the skirts and create a lump. Beleive it or not a small lump(epecially in front) can lead to white spots and soars on the horse. Yes even through a pad. We found that I save them the cost of replacement saddles, by digging a little deeper to get the debris out. So keep in mind that sometimes cleaning may involve pulling some nails and screws to get the job done right(or really well, if I were to be PC). This has also helped to locate an impending catastrophy that may not have been detected without a deeper look. Best wishes all.G.Hackett

Hi Folks, I have some clicker dies for an english saddle and some other misc. dies. I also have some duplicate(extra) Leathercrafters Journals I'd also like to sell. My cam is not compatable with my new computer and I can't afford a new cam yet. If there is any interest I will post a list of the Journals. Interest in the Dies I'll see if I can borrow a cam that will work on my comp. G. Hackett

Ken Hale of Durango Gunleather carries Beard's tools. He has a website. You'll have to contact him and see what he has. I'd also go with Barry King for many tools,also Horseshoe brand tools(Jeremiah Watt,@ Ranch2arena.com) Lots of good makers out there. Good luck. G.Hackett

I know this post is over a month old but I thought I'd ad my $.02. As has been said, how the tree will be used is a factor. Going to the other extreem, lets say your customer can live without a horn and other parts of the saddle that have been pared down. A side note, Steve Gonsoles in Bend, OR.(down the road from me) has a specific patened designed saddle he builds that is ultra light for the enduance riders and really has no tree as compared to traditional saddles. I'll let him explain it. Once I reallized that I couldn't go Steve's direction when designing an endurance/trail saddle I went back to the traditional tree to see where we could lighten things up. I worked with a tree maker and mainly came up with a slick fork(no horn) with the front of the swell cut square off about where the front of the horn would be, slotted bars and the tree maker picked the wood. Either way though, I'll let tree makers confirm this statement, you can only go so light with a tree. Let's say we are looking at 6# to 7# at the lightest. The rest of the weight is in the leather and hardware. I came up with a design that was still around 22# for the finished saddle(w/o stirrups) and it still had enough rings and ties on it for all the gear you want to tie on.In this case I used latago for the primary hide so yah it was heavier with waxes, oils and dies but it is dang near weather proof, which was the idea for this model. It also had and english style girth setup which may or may not have reduced weight. This is a western/english 'hybid' but is rugged for it's purpose as well as in the lighter weight range that many smaller folk look for. So I guess I am confirming what has been said, that most of your lightening up is after you get the tree issues delt with. I think we need to address the difference between most commercial saddles and custom makers. The custom maker can afford to take advantage of alternatives in materials which can offer more options. (Yes I used some synthetics in this model)Whereas in the commercial market most of their materials though still may be high quality aren't chosen for lightness, thus we have a lot of horse people out there who assume that the lighter weight saddles are either of poor quality or non-existant, meaning most good commercial saddles are heavier than they want. Was that $.02? G.Hackett

Tree shopping can be a task. You need to ask yourself how hard you arew going to work your tree. Serious ropers can go a couple ways. Arena ropers could be happy with fiberglass or glass incased trees as made by Hadlock and Fox(also make traditional trees).Lower price range. Ranch cowboys who rope hard would probably opt for the laminated trees I think is what Nikkels make as well as Ben Swank in Billings and a few others around the U.S. Top end. Bowden and Hurcules, Timbeline,and Superior make custom and stock trees wood and rawhide. Superior also covers trees with bed linerlike product they call ultra hide. has it's place but I would personally only use it for pleasure saddles.This group would be in the lower to mid-range price. Notall tree makers have websites. If you need phone numbers give me a hollar. G.Hackett

My old draw down is strating to split and I got tiered of jumping up and down on the bar to get a tight fit, so I found a sissor jack out back and use it now. I may switch to a small bottle jack one of these days. Small mods and I'm on my way. Just hope the O/L doesn't get a flat first. HA!! G.Hackett