Hockeymender

Universal sewing supply: https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=default&s=yes

Thanks Gregg!

Might want to post this in the "leather sewing machines" section. Will probably get more and better input there as this is a forum for selling machines.

For what it's worth, I've had two of these machines and I can say that when they are set up correctly they are absolutely wonderful machines to sew on. I think they require a little more tweaking than say a 335, but once dialed in they are real work horses. After seeing those pics I'm kinda sorry I gave mine up.

Answers price point question.

I would suggest trying a larger needle.

Make certain the thread is properly placed between the tension discs and is staying there. I had an issue with a machine where the thread would "pop" out of the discs while I was sewing and create a similar mess. Also, check that the thread is feeding off the spool without binding or sticking of any kind.

I have speed reducers on two of mine and they work just fine with the needle positioners.

Goldstar GBSM-550S. I have four of these and have had them in service going on two years. They are easy to set up and work flawlessly. Plenty of power as well. http://store.allamericansewing.net/goldstar-gbsm-550-brushless-servo-motor-550-watt-34hp-with-needle-positioner

Sold

Yes, that is all adjustable.

Guess some people here don't have to do any precision sewing in the work they do. I for one need a very slow machine to get the stitching correct on the gloves, skates and other hockey gear I sew. To go "zip zip, done" would create an unsightly and unusable piece of equipment (and hockey players are very fussy about the fit and feel). In my better than twenty years of doing this I have learned it is actually quicker to sew at a snails pace, because I don't have to go back and redo things that sewing fast caused me to do incorrectly and thus I lose time going back to make corrections. I'm sure that for many applications sewing fast works well and is the preferred and recommended method, but not in every case.

Andrew, I'm thinking the machine I had would be to large to fit into the toe of that shoe. I wanted it to sew the tongues into skates and it was too much for that job. Check the pic of the business end of the machine and I think you will see what I mean:

The best method is the remove the head from the table and crate it. Attach the table to a pallet and then band the crate with the head under the table to the pallet. Some then choose to use a shrink wrap type material around the whole lot but I think that's optional. As far as shippers, use a freight company. They will get it where it's going with much less chance of damage. The absolute last choice for shipping a sewing machine would be UPS. I've seen first hand what they can do industrial sewing machines. Just my two cents.

Just be aware that the 1342 has a larger arm than the 335 does. If getting into tight places on the items you intend to sew is an issue, you might want to rethink your choice. If that's not a concern the 1342 is certainly a more robust machine than the 335, but they both have their place and uses.

Never heard of that brand, but I can say that is a direct knock off (clone, copy) of the Pfaff 335. The 335 is an incredibly versatile machine. Can sew thick to thin. I can say that with confidence owning three of them.

I had a 1341 before I acquired my CB 4500. It was a great machine and was built like a tank. Everything I threw at at it handled without complaint. I used to run 180 needles and sew plastic knee caps on to shin guards. I also sewed skate boots with it. Don't know how the Kobi version stacks up, but the Juki 1341 is a war horse IMHO.

Just make sure the hook is set correctly for the larger needle, and both the upper and lower tensions will need some tweaking. It's never been a big deal.

I've used a 134-35 160 needle and 138 thread without difficulty.

I am selling one of my German made Pfaff 335 machines. Hardly used this machine is in like new condition. Comes complete with new table, thread stand, servo motor and some bobbins. This machine uses the larger style 335 bobbins. $2200.00 OBO. Prefer local pickup.

Kind of hard to do with an oil drip pan under the machine, attached to the table. I've just learned to run with it.

For what it's worth, I have a Seiko STH-8BLD3 and it's an excellent machine. My only gripe is I have to tilt the whole head back to access the bobbin, as I can't get my fingers thru the opening with the slide plate pushed back. It's not a big deal as these machines go. What really counts is it sews great and that makes up for the bobbin access issue.

I may be all wet with this (and I know if I am someone that knows for sure will chime in), but I think you need to adjust the tension assembly at the opposite end to the left or right to adjust how the bobbin fills. I have used that method when I had a similar problem and that fixed it. Based on your photo, I would think you would want to move the tension assembly slightly to the side opposite to the side the thread is piling up on.

Very nicely done! I know what you mean, I get asked to do alterations and mods on hockey gloves I really wonder about sometimes.....but they're willing to pay me, so I make it work.

Same here as stated by Northmount, iPads cannot play this type of video. Got it to work fine on my PC.