Timbo

So if you went to TLF to make a purchase and got to the register to cash out and they told you that you had to pay for the employees time to stock the merchandise, help you with your buying decision, ring you up and then bag your merchandise on top of the price of merchandise itself........what would you do??? Oh and the plastic bag and receipt cost you another dollar, cause they aren't free either. What would anybody do????? You know good and well what you would do and that is tell them to keep there stuff and walk out and never come back. It is called the price of being in business and the merchant pays for it. You make it back by selling merchandise. It's built in to the cost, you don't charge extra for it. Why is doing business online different???? When I buy on ebay or an ebay store and the merchant wants 9.00 for shipping me a pack of sewing needles.........guess what?? I don't buy them. When I see an auction and the item is buy it now for 15.00 and shipping is 25.00........guess what?? I don't buy it. If you can't make your money for the selling price of the item, why is it okay to make it up with shipping and "handling"??? It's not. I realize a lot of legitimate store front businesses will charge a handling fee for mail order and they always have. But usually it was a pretty nominal fee. Nowadays it seems like everyones time is valuable and they want paid for everything they do for you to complete the transaction. Well folks, you ain't gonna make it from me..........cause that is the price of being in business. This attitude is very prevalent on ebay and I don't condone or support it in any fashion. If you can't sell on ebay and charge straight "cost of shipping only" fees, then get off ebay and pay for a website and sell your goods as an online retailer. As for the time and gas it takes to box an item and drive it to the post office.........this is just another part of the cost of being in business. You don't charge for it. I'm not trying to anger anyone.........I've just worked retail my whole life. Tim

Cool way to recycle Luke!! but..........where did you get those conchos??? I used to have a supplier but they quit carrying them and I have not been able to find them anywhere...........hopefully you still have a supplier. Tim

please expound on this and show a sample if you can tim

It's absolutely beautiful Don!!! Great job all the way around. Been waiting for the finished pics. It is very encouraging for those of us who someday hope to build our first saddles. Thank you for all the pics. Tim

I looked it up and don't remember the exact price but it was waaaaayyy out of my reach. I am sure it would be priceless for the info it contains, I just can't afford priceless. I think the advice on buying the saddle tree is good and I'll probably do that. Its easier to picture how things work when you have something besides pictures to look at. thanks tim

Luke, I do them pretty much the way Jordan shows. Funny thing is that I just made a Zippo buck over the weekend too. I make all of my bucks out of oak and use c clamps as well. Only problem with oak is if you leave them in too long they start to turn color as it draws the tannin out of the oak. I take mine out after about half an hour and set them aside and let them dry. On the cell cases I use a big enough chunk of leather to press mold all 4 sides then cut off the top. When you try to do three sides the open/top side won't pull tight. Which is okay for lighters as it makes it easier to get out of the case. But I still wind up cutting some of the top off anyway. Thank you all for kind words!!! Tim

Sweet idea on the flatbed scanner.........just got one on ebay for 8.75 shipped!!! If nothing else I'll gut it and add a fluorescent fixture to it. I've been watching light tables on ebay but this is going to be way cheaper, plus its got a handy dandy cover for the work surface too!! Thanks for the idea!!!! Tim

I love watching the Dale Harwood video!! I found that a few weeks ago and don't get tired of watching it. The carving contest entries are great too. Talk about a good way to get ideas and a great study guide!!!! Tim

Those look really good Luke. By the way.........do you make hats too?? Just noticed the 2 flat tops in the background. Timbo

They are not lined and are made from 7-8 oz veg tan. Tim

Sadly, no, I'm not related to her. The EVOO tip I got from Will Ghormley. He pretty much uses it on everything. I like making cases too.....seems like mostly what I do anymore. I made some really cool wood bucks to use on these. Tim

Here's some pics of a dog collar I just refurbed and by refurbed I mean I reused the conchos and buckle. Seems the old one was coming apart........so I made some new leather for it. Here it is................ Tim

Heres some pics of a couple cell phone holsters I just finished. The border stamped one is finished with some tinted EVOO that I mixed up. The flower one is finished with TLF's new all in one antique/dye, which is very easy to use. It looks like a multi part dye then antique job, but it was just one step. It is finished with Bee Natural Rudy's. These are for Razr phones. Let me know what you think. Tim

Don't know if it is what you are looking for but what I do is by a pack of Tandy Leather Factory line 24 snaps, then I buy a pack of their economy rope edge conchos. The conchos come in 3 sizes-5/8, 3/4 and 1". Then I use the conchos in place of the snap cap. ..........but what I do before I use them is to scuff the face with green scotchbrite, then dip then in some gun bluing. It will turn the whole concho a bluish black. Then rinse them off really well with clear water. Dry them and scotchbrite them again. The design stays black and the face is matte silver. Now you have your own homemade antiqued concho. I think they look pretty good. You can also use just about any rivet back concho in place of the line 24 snap cap. It won't work with the smaller line 20 snaps as the setter won't fit down inside the snap to set the rivet. I'll try to get a pic of what the concho looks like and post it later. ..............and welcome to the forum!!! Tim Here is the snap.

So instead of soaking the leather you just sponge it on and I assume let it return to almost normal color before carving?? Like you would if casing with plain water?? Tim

...........so how do you apply this??? Tim

Ya know, I only have 2 issues of the Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal, and one of them is the issue that shows how to Sam Stagg rig a saddle. I have read and reread that article many times and studied the pics for hours. For the most part it is that article and that saddle that first sparked my interest in making saddles. I'll check into the Jeremiah Watt video's too. I admire his talent and ability very much. He has a very unique carving style too. Some of his flowers mystify me as to how he does them. Thanks Ashley, Tim

Looks great Luke. I've got a friend thats been bugging me to make him a sling. How wide is it where it goes thru the rings and how long is it?? Do you make them adjustable and if so how?? Tim

Books are going to have to be my teacher. I can't afford any saddle schools and can't afford to miss work to go to them either. I think my skill level is pretty good. A local saddlemaker saw my work and offered to teach me how to make saddles, but he doesn't do it full time and when push comes to shove doesn't have time to teach me. He is also the only maker in the area that I know of too. So I'm pretty much relegated to book learning. I know it would be best to have a mentor to work with, but, it appears that is not an option. I have done alot of research on it for the past couple of years and have learned alot, most recently from this forum. Every little piece of info helps and adds to the knowledge base. Tim

This is a new one on me..........why do you heat a creaser?? Tim

Well, actually no, it turns out I don't have someone to walk me thru...........but then again, I've got access to some of the best right here in this forum!! I got an PM from Don earlier and he sent me some excellent links to go thru. Can't wait to read them. The above pic is pretty close to what I want to build the first time out. I might go with a half seat though. Then again the loop seat is pretty sweet too. Not sure yet. Thanks for all the advice. Tim

Okay, so I am really wanting to learn to build saddles and am thinking about what I would like to build first. What I really would like to build is an old time slick fork or "A" fork saddle. What is the difference between the two?? I am looking at the Bowden catalog online and can't tell much diff between the two of them. I also like the Wade trees and all the variations they come in but..........I really want to do Sam Stagg rigging, which is why I am looking at the A forks and slick forks. What advise can you guys offer me on my first endeavor?? Am I biting off more than I can chew?? Thanks in advance for any responses. Tim

The 4 prong punch you are trying to use was not meant for such heavy leather. Getting the leather wet helps punch the holes but distorts the edge. If you have the single diamond punch it will work better but be very tedious. As others have said the norm for stitch holes in skirting is a very sharp diamond blade sewing awl. I've punched thousands of holes with the 4 prong punch but it has limitations, mostly getting it out of the leather after it is all the way through. Tim

I don't know if they are 1 quart or 2 but Wal-Mart here used to carry them then they stopped. Now Academy sports carries the same thing. But like I said I don't know if they are 1 or 2. I'll check mine later and let you know. I see alot of people covering aluminum canteens and the only thing I can think about that is they have never drank out of an aluminum canteen. YUK!! Tim

...........this is interesting. Why don't some of you guys post some pics to go along with it?? Tim