JerseyFirefighter

I've been told that Mark answered a colleague this past week and stated he is no longer working for Thoroughbred as of last Saturday. I do not know the specifics as to his departure, however the appropriate contact is now Jeff. Their phone number as listed on their FB page is 502-315-0315

Thank you Wiz for reaching out and finding them! I'm actually curious to see how similar they really are to the tension adjustment springs since that's what I had originally pegged it as when it first popped out on me. I must be a redheaded step child as I use the flatbed that came with the stand so loading the bobbin from the top is near impossible. I've tried sewing without it and didnt seem natural to me since I learned with the table on. (leaves a nice little side work space to place/stage stuff to boot. I'll certainly buy two just to have one to throw into that catchall/accessory drawer on the right in case I need another. You made my weekend.

Looking at Cowboy's parts diagram it is the same breakdown as mine. I take it that the section where it should be is labeled "hook assy" that I would have to grab the whole thing. I dont particularly mind but hearing the bobbin chinging around in the case is both driving me nuts, and making me worried that something is going to awry if I continue to stitch without it.

Thank you Wiz. After the first two replies I thought I may be going crazy. Indeed, it looks strikingly similar to say an upper tension spring (conical/beehive). Are there any good online resources for such parts? I'd like to put the order through over the weekend so I dont have to worry about placing phone calls during the week. Very much appreciated.

Dallas, Texas... I could probably put this on a few straps. :D

Perhaps the "shuttle spring" would be a better descriptive? Unfortunately I still am not catching it in the parts breakdown.

I was looking to grab a bobbin case spring for my ferdco pro 2000. Oddly enough the manual's diagram shows everything but the spring that pushes against the bobbin when inserted into its casing. As it seems the sucker must have popped out and after a thorough shop investigation, im almost certain my little helpers swept it up before I was able to notice it. I know Johanna has specifically mentioned the bobbin case spring so I know my terminology isnt too far off. I attempted my local dealer and have been playing back and forth for a week. I would just like to order the spring and a few bobbins and move forward. I would be brave to assume that it is the same spring that is used in cowboys and cobras. Could anyone point me to an online reference where I may get the ball rolling? Thank you!

You're right lol. Next time im up that way I have to stop by. Never been to a Tandy store before.

11 year old thread. Got to admire dusting off some of the archives. :D

Im sorry I cannot add to assisting you as my suggestion would have been the bigger needle as well... however would you mind sharing any good biothane distributors? I've been meaning to get some pieces and mess around with it.

Off the top of my head, it was about two weeks. Makes sense between time making it and international shipping from Bulgaria. Quality stamps.

I may be the sole objector to all of the other suggestions that treated or untreated wet/dry leather can hold a stamp. Most of my early work was a mix of natural veg tanned both wet and dry. It is most obvious that wet veg tan will make a DEEPER impression, however I have stamped numerous types of stamps ranging from makers stamps, to craftool alphabets, to 3d image stamps. For natural veg tan, wetting it is most ideal. I had stamped for a year using a 16oz dual headed poly mallet from harbor freight. You will notice a MUCH lighter impression in dried veg tan. Now finished leather is a different animal, but not much different than stamping dry veg tan. There will be an impression, it may fade over time with use, however it will still be noticeable. Aside from wet vs dry leather, what is more crucial in my opinion as to what is more important than the hammer type is having a solid striking surface. If wont make a difference what hammer you are using if you are working on a springy/spongy surface. Try seeing the difference between your work surface and a concrete floor. Also, I would caution about angling your stamp handle as you strike. I have deformed a number of stamp sockets using this method, and have learned if I am using veg tan, I wet it... I switched to an arbor press and will take the control and even impression over hand striking any day. Some stamps I use do not lend me the convenience of arbor pressing, so I channel my best steady hand with a dead blow hammer. Leather work is truly resource consuming. While I understand that investing more money into tools for a hobby is quite restrictive, think of all the happy gun enthusiasts that dump tons of dough on ammo that "most" can never recoup the costs that delivered peace and happiness for the day.

That's a wonderful setup. I love getting a peek at other people's workspace. I just reorganized my garage for the 5th time to try to work in an extra 8' bench. When I told my wife we should be looking at a bigger house so I can expand the business, her eyes lit up like the day we said "I do"

Got my stamps the other day. Digging them. Great additions.

A fellow leatherworker and I were discussing this recently, and it dawned on us that we have the same problem. Our side drawer of our juki clone stands have become a catch all for some/most of our bobbins. From switching constantly and the nature of the 207 and 277 thread they refuse to stay wound, thread hanging everywhere and just an unsightly mess to look at. Ive considered making a doweled rack for my thread which currently is nestled in wall mounted cabinets, but not sure if something like a smaller rack for dowels or finish nails would do the trick. Im interested in any other solutions out there that may seem outside of the box to store 2 dozen or more bobbins.

It's a long way from Bulgaria, but im looking forward to getting the few stamps I ordered. Particularly the dragon scales.

Texas Custom Dies. I actually have 4 en route to me from them. Love getting die shipments!

I see they're out of stock now. The last time I purchased I had bought enough to last me for a bit since they are out of Canada.

snleather... a stamp maker on this forum from Bulgaria has dragon scale stamps from 10-14mm in size. I just purchased a few of his stamps this week so im eager to get them and check them out. I bought a 10mm and a 14mm one. Aside from that I have heard mulesfoot stamps work similarly, but are all too small for the work I wanted to do. I like the english point idea, however something tells me I would not get uniformity in stamping each scale. Ask for a catalog by emailing him at snleatherbg@gmail.com

I am really horrible at creating templates for things like this. I really have to sit down and have that light bulb moment on how to effectively design stuff like this. I have people asking for custom sized pouches all of the time for their other orders.

Your jaw will drop when you see the difference between Weaver retail and Wholesale. I think they wanted like $1300 for that retail. If I recall I got mine for $8-850. The only thing I wish was a little better was the grabber (sharp pointy leather gouger) I understand there are probably design limitations, however something akin to a spring clamp to grab the pieces would be better than hooking it with a sharp pointed tooth. Totally worth the extra money. One of my top 5 biggest time saving purchases.

I have the four sided one and do batches of 25-35 60"+ straps and 25-35 14" straps at once. If you are doing or plan to do volume the extra money is worth it without question. If you are only doing a few belts, straps, or collars here or there the 2 sided one should work just fine.

Ive used the conical one for almost two years now attached to a harbor freight drill press. Does the job just fine. I do however feel like its time to upgrade a a burnisher with more thickness options as that one is missing the sweet spot for the leather I use so I end up jumping between widths to get a good burnish on my straps.

Angelus paint in multiple thinned coats.

Needs a 1/4 turn quick release though.