TwinOaks

I've never had 'roon 'rub off', but it is possible that there's some transfer from the leather if it's getting wet. Was your batch 'smelly'? If so, the acetic acid was still active.....may need to be neutralized. When I use it, I apply Aussie conditioner instead of oil. Perhaps you could check to see what kind of moisture it's being exposed to, and if needed, seal it. I made a belt and used 'roon as the color/finish, and quite honestly I sweat HARD (like, time for some dry clothes), but have never had any problems with color transfer.

In that case, you are correct in BOTH posts!

Welcome to the forum! Good to have you here.

Great to hear some new things are coming, and it wasn't really an inconvenience, just a curiosity. Thanks for the update.

We used to have, among the stats at the bottom of the page, a listing for who was in Chat. Am I overlooking it, has it been moved/removed? Kinda nice to be able to see if anyone is there. Thanks, Mike

Fantastic sheath!! Overall proportions look good and the edges....wow. You sure you don't wanna make knife sheaths too?

A few more answers.... A lot of tack is sewn to either join two pieces of leather, or to increase it's durability. Stitching the leather helps to keep it from stretching, and you'll often find that tack is pretty thick because thicker=stronger. Bronc straps are typically a good bit thicker than 'standard' tack because of the nature of it's intended use. While breaking a bronc, you most definitely don't want to have a piece of gear break and lose (what you think is) control. Yes, you most certainly can use a sewing machine, and unless you just LIKE sore fingers, it's highly recommended. There are a lot of machines to choose from, and some are better than others. We have an entire sub-forum dedicated to the discussion of sewing machines, and there's more info there than I could retype in several years. My advice on a sewing machine is this: Buy the uppermost limit of what you can afford. Get more machine than you think you'll use, because you'll need it on the next job. One of the most popular and well reviewed types of machine is the clone(s) of the Juki 441, and variants. They'll handle a wide range of projects with ease. If you look at the Ad Banners at the top of the page, you'll see our advertisers. Just click on the links to find out more about them. A word of caution- For a good machine, EXPECT to pay upwards of $1500 dollars. Most of the "Industrial Leather Sewing Machine" you'll find on E-bay just don't have enough arse to do the job correctly. Stay away from the "head only" deals unless you're a sewing machine mechanic, or intend on becoming one. The advertisers selling machines here, have machines that are set up for power and control, and usually include a DC motor and a speed reducer. Standard 'industrial machines' use an AC motor that develops its power at high speed. They are built to run at 2-3000 stitches per minute in a factory setting. It may seem like a deal, but by the time you do the conversions, you've spent a good bit of money. oops, looks like I got to rambling.....more info like this in the sewing machine forum.

Excellent first wallet! Probably outlast the cheap ones by 20 years or more. A few minor details, like the stitch line, but over all a fantastic job.

Marlon posted a Tutorial on this a good while back: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1669 There's also a few other pinned topics in the "tools" heading that deal with sharpening.

Something else you must know is that the example of stitching looks to intentionally favor the Campbell. The turn in the stitch was NOT done correctly with the Artisan machine. Performed correctly, the walking foot machines will NOT leave the marks on the leather that are shown. No other type sewing machine will match the stitching of a 'needle and awl' machine, but the 'unison feed / triple feed' machines can still produce a MUCH nicer stitch than what is shown.

I see an immediate "problem" with the first holster. With no support at the back (trigger guard side) of the holster, it's left to lift and rotate using the clip as its pivot. The result is as the holster pivots, the draw transfers from "up through the big hole" to "trying to draw the weapon through the stitching on the trigger guard side of the holster. Adding in the extra( loop like on the second one should alleviate that "problem". The reason the word problem is in quotes is because for a crossdraw, it's in exactly the right place. It's not a problem of design, but implementation.

I think this one has moved on.

I always tell my customers of IWB holsters that they need to increase the pants size to comfortably carry that way. Otherwise, they're effectively adding an inch or more inside the belt. I agree with the statement about the belt being crucial. The choice of gun has a lot to do with it, as well. A slim gun like a 1911, High Power, etc., will be more comfortable than a blocky shape like Glock, XD, etc. A J-frame Smith would be okay, but a RedHawk would be uncomfortable. Also, the amount of pistol IWB contributes. Placing a revolver so that the cylinder is under the belt would be difficult to draw. My set up is an IWB for an all steel 1911, worn at 4 o'clock, spares on the other side. On weekends I wear it for about 12-14 hours per day w/ no probs. You may have to tell the customer that carrying a pistol under a roll of fat is problematic and they need to order style 'x' from you instead.

Dibs!!!!

Went for a check at the local doc-in-a-box this afternoon. They told me they can get me started but want me to get a regular doctor (primary care) b/c there needs to be some blood work done, etc., to make sure I'm on the right med. I've been on my diet for a week and a half now, have lost about 8 lbs, and when they check the BP, I was 15 points lower across the board. The doc said that if I lost another 5-10 lbs, and get some regular excercise I probably won't have to take ANY meds. Speaking of meds, the one she prescribed is a diuretic. ?????? It warns 'may cause dizziness, avoid direct sunlight / prolonged exposure to sunlight'..........my next job ticket (Friday?) is to relamp a roadsign.....during the day, outside, in my bucket truck. Maybe I should go to medical school so I can be smart, too.

Beautiful work as always Kevin!!!

Yes, Veg tan leather is good for the environment. We're using up all the hides from the cattle that die. We are RECYCLING!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the encouraging words. Viewing my initial reaction.....I may have over reacted a bit. The thing is, I'm a DOT driver, and I have to meet the requirements or lose my DOT health card. No card, no job. So....I'm planning on a doctor's visit to see about some meds. In the meantime, I'm on a spouse enforced, low salt, high(er) exercise diet, with a reduction of goodies. Hmmmmm ............if I lose my job, I might have to take up full time leather production..............PASS THE POTATO CHIPS!!!!!!!!

I use a stylus as well. I've put a enough misplaced lines on leather that I typically don't do it anymore. If I do, it's on the flesh side IF I know it'll be covered.

For detailed info, please use the search funtion, 'cause we've got pages and pages of info on it. Vinegaroon is a chemical compound created by dissolving a ferrous (rustable) metal in acetic acid (vinegar). You get it by making it yourself, in whatever quantity you like. It gets better with age. You apply it with either a dip, brush, spoon, paper towel, etc. It turns the leather black through chemical reaction, and once dry, will not rub off. When making it, you might get some bleed out while the leather is wet, so blot dry with paper towels.

It could be a combination of all three. A single needle should pass through an empty hole easily, all the way to the thread in the eye, then need just a little tug. The second needle will be just a little harder. When back stitching, I sometimes need to assist the last pass with pliers, but that's the 4th pass through the same hole. The puckers sound like you're pulling WAY too hard, or stitching while the leather is too wet.

Spend a little extra time to slick and seal the side that will be the interior. It'll make the draw just a little smoother.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! We're glad you happened across this corner of the internet. Thanks for telling us a bit about you, and we'd love to see some pics of your work.