gojosh

This is a rather poor shot of the top. It's massive - something like 75" long and nearly 30" deep.

On my 3/4" MDF topped work table I added a sheet of 1/8" tempered hardboard (Masonite is a trade name) and trimmed it with a laminate router. It makes a wonderful surface that's more resistant to damage than MDF alone. Consider trimming the edges out with solid wood, edge banding or filler+paint as the raw MDF isn't super durable. I also ordered a massive self healing mat from an online signmaking supply company. It's a wonderful table.

Recently I purchased an assorted pack of Bondo brand flexible spreaders. The glue doesn't seem to stick to them and the material is able to be cut to width. They work pretty well and cleanup nicely.

Hi everyone! Awhile back I purchased a Barry King small awl handle and awl blade. The awl handle is the small sized collet style with the flat side. The blade is the size 1 blade. The issue I'm having is the blade slips in the collet regardless of how tight I get the hex nut. I'm using the smaller end of the collet and the blade is super tight (difficult to insert by hand) but slips when I try to use it. I'm familiar with collets (Dremel tools, lathes, mills, pin vices, exacto knives etc.) what am I doing wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

None that I've noticed, it's thick like Elmer's glue (not watery like solvent dye) and I don't use it in huge quantities so that might contribute to the success.

I have used the brown on brownish shades of Buttero with great results. It's durable and tends to blend with a range of colors.

Thanks! The primary function of the glue was to hold everything together during stitching but it seemed to stand up decently to burnishing. I wasn't gentle with it at any point in the process.

This is some blue CXL glued to Buttero on a wallet. I burnished with clear Tokonole and it turned out much better than I expected. Not as durable as the Buttero inside but not too bad.

I found this post accidentally looking for something else and this simple illustration makes this as clear as I have ever seen. I've watched Nigel's video more times than I can count and I've struggled with the exact issue and couldn't make sense of it. Thanks so much YinTx for your great advice and thanks to Strathmore for the excellent illustration! This is why I keep coming back to this forum.

This is awesome stuff - have used it for 18 years on a number of different things from high end boots to leather bags and straps.

Is there enough clearance to allow you to put a thin layer of felt on the underside of the tabletop only in the area of the pockets? Goal would be to protect them from rubbing.

There is a serious misconception - diamond chisels are completely different than any of the things anyone has called out. They are not thonging chisels and the points are very fine and close together. I'm wondering if something like these would work: https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Carving-Tool-Slips-P268.aspx?gclid=CMX73tL42MwCFQmQaQodRmoF_w My biggest concern would be making sure that you don't end up with tips shorter than others.

www.buckleguy.com has a fair selection of watch strap hardware.