Uwe

I still don't know which foot you're looking for, "double toe close presser foot" neither rhymes with blanket nor harness.

If the needle bar is still descending when the tip of the hook passes, something is most definitely wrong, regardless of needle system or needle bar height.

If you're talking about the standard double toe foot set you can just buy those new on Ebay http://r.ebay.com/azPYfk I'm sure our trusty banner vendors have some, too. No need to complicate things with a request for quote process.

This LW forum is geared to towards leather sewing machines of the heavy duty industrial variety. Hopefully there are other forums out there better suited to support domestic sewing machines. If you're on Facebook, you may want to shoot FB member Sew Restored a message . Apparently your machine is a Emdeko/Morse model NH, made by Toyota. He seems to know about this model of domestic machine and how to fix them. I stumbled across a parts diagram for your machine. It may be helpful. It's not clear to me how this design can even go out of timing. It seems all locked down with pins through shafts and other rigid connections.

Patchers are a stage seemingly everybody goes through while trying to decide on a sewing machine. In reality very few people end up using a patcher to make things. Patchers are machines mainly used to repair things that were made on other machines. Of course there are exceptions. Patchers are like horse-drawn Amish buggies that can do things no modern car can do. It looks all romantic in pictures and when you pass them on the road, but precious few people are prepared to deal with hoof prints, droppings, and equine flatulence on a daily basis. I once took a very memorable open carriage ride up to Neuschwanstein castle pulled by a flatulent horse - I nearly fell off the cart from asphyxiation and juvenile laughing fits. Yes, you can make beautiful things on a Patcher that you cannot do on any other sewing machine. I had a Techsew 2900 patcher some time ago that made an absolutely beautiful stitch on vinyl material ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiFOOdQydD0), but would likely leave undesirable marks on the type of leather you want to work with. Your best bet is really to take some material to a place with a showroom full of demo machines and try them out or have them demo it for you. In Ohio you have several day-trip options to choose from (Weaver, Neal's Saddlery, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines). No doubt the patcher crowd will chime, too (edit: like Wizcrafts did a few seconds before I hit Submit.)

Durkopp Adler 267 are seriously nice machines and worth considerably more than $750 in good condition, at least in my book. Check the subclass - the Durkopp Adler 267-373 is perhaps the most desireable one for general upholstery and leather type work. Some subclasses are specialty one-trick ponies and not desirable for general purpose work. They're well supported in terms of manuals and common parts availability like presser feet, throat plates, hooks, tension unit, etc. Some parts are available reasonably priced from quality aftermarket manufacturers like Kwok Hing, the OEM bits can add up quickly. Make sure the machine you pick is complete and turns over smoothly by hand. Get a spare if you can afford it. Here's a brochure that describes the various models in the Durkopp Adler 267 range: http://docs.uwe.net/Durkopp_Adler_267_leaflets.pdf

Let's keep this topic focused on Permata Sewing and take the UT441 discussion back to the original topic. I just added some info there:

I often get questions about which variations of 441 clones this table will fit. The UT441 table was designed for the 16.5" arm of the original Juki TSC-441. The model names and numbers on the various Juki TSC-441 clones and variations can be very confusing, even within the same brand. I double checked the arm length specs of common 441 variations: Juki TSC-441, Cowboy 4500, Techsew 5100, Cobra Class 4: 16.5" arm (UT441 table is designed to fit this arm as-is) Artisan Toro 3200: 12.5" arm (drill & tap hole in arm to accomodate UT411 table) Cowboy 3200, Techsew 3850: 10.5" arm (too short for UT441 table) Artisan Toro 3000: 9.5" arm (too short for UT441 table) Cowboy 3500: 9" arm (too short for UT441 table) I do plan to make a short version of the table for the popular Cowboy 3200, but it'll be spring 2018 before that becomes a reality.

The warning bells in my head are chiming in loud and clear, too. Most of the used sewing machine offerings on the Permata sewing website seem too good to be true, with prices too low, pictures taken anywhere but Indonesia, and descriptive text copied from other websites. My sample check was that Cobra Class 4, the text is copied from the Cobra website, and googling Cobra Class-4 pictures brings up that same machine in front of the same garage door from various websites. You're better off checking in with a reputable dealer in Texas, like @SolarLeatherMachines of Solar Leather , or one of our trusty vendors in the banner ads. More expensive but also more real.

Part of the difficulty comes from the common desire to find the perfect one machine to sew all seams on a product. This is the realm that domestic sewing machines are designed for - a dozen tasks, one machine. High volume and/or high-end production outfits take the approach from the opposite direction. They usually look at one seam and ask which one machine is best suited to sew that particular seam. Then they move on to the next seam or type of seam. A simple looking product may involve a dozen or more sewing machines. This is the realm that industrial sewing machines are designed for - one task, one machine. And each machine runs north of $6K. At times it seems that the bulk of effort amongst participants on this forum is spent on trying to make industrial machines do things they were not designed to do. Some machine designs are inherently more versatile than others. In my book, a cylinder arm machine with a good flatbed attachment is one of the most versatile combinations you'll find among industrial sewing machines.

Yes, it's much easier to find information about machines that actually exist. An admin like @Northmount or @Wizcrafts might be able to edit the topic title, so we don't propagate a typo for all eternity on the internet. Edit: Title fixed

As you already know, there isn't much available online for the Durkopp 235. You might as well be the one who starts making stuff available. Can you please get the ball rolling by sharing what you already have for the Durkopp 235? Please post detailed pictures of your Durkopp 235 and also upload a PDF file of the Durkopp 235 manual you already have. Without seeing the machine it's hard to guess if a closely related model may provide a useful starting point for adjustments.

If the race is missing the shuttle hook and bobbin are probably missing, too. Parts might be available, I may even have some in my stash, but you really need to find part numbers to get the right bits and pieces. Kinda sounds like a parts machine, or one that has donated some parts, willingly or not. Make sure you have time and money to invest after you buy a machine like that. This thread contains manuals and other useful info regarding the Singer 45K53:

You'll have to press a few buttons to select a top speed the motor is allowed to spin at. The Consew CMS1000 manual will tell you the details. "Read manuals" sounds like a great new year's resolution.

This same question came up a year and a half ago. Summary: your machine is about two decades old, give or take a decade.

The Pfaff 1295 referenced earlier sold shortly after that video was posted. In my experience, used walking foot post bed machines in good condition are rare and not cheap. New walking foot post bed clones like the Techsew 860 run close to $3K new. New OEM machines from brands like Juki, Durkopp Adler, or Pfaff are easily twice that. You'd only need one hand to count the walking foot post bed machines that have popped up on CL in the Detroit area over the past few years. The last one I remember was a Pfaff 1296 for over $4K. Without knowing where @BrownChicken is located, it's hard to make meaningful recommendations for used machinery. I do have several post bed machines, but not all of them are walking foot designs. The only walking foot post bed I'd consider letting go for $1,300 is a Durkopp Adler 168 (once I put it back together.) My two Durkopp Adler 268's (one single, one double needle) are nearly pristine and worth considerably more. Many folks making bags manage fine using a suitable walking foot cylinder arm machine, which are generally more plentiful in supply and cheaper than the post bed versions. The cost difference is partially due to manufacturing complexity and production volumes.

It would be useful to know which presser feet @spurdude101 is actually using. Some combinations are just doomed. Sewing wet veg tan leather with harness feet on a 441 class machine is like olympic weightlifting in stilettos on a waterbed - interesting but not quite what you hoped for.

The two feet are connected via linkages and work off the same pressure spring. Any adjustment to the presser foot spring will affect both feet.

For noncritical out-of-production parts like your Pfaff foot lift roller, I'd recommend make your own, or find/make something functionally equivalent. It's not a high precision or critical part and you're free to make stuff up. You're not running a Pfaff museum, after all. For example, this roller tip from an edge guide on top of a suitable bolt/shaft/rod is functionally equivalent to your missing part. Of course your parts drawer may look different than mine.

I'd try using the other screw hole first. Perhaps that is actually the original one. The screw hole you are using now may have been added to make the old combination work. Don't assume that the two holes have the same thread and pitch - you may need a different screw for the other hole. The tab on your bobbin case also looks like it's been filed down already. On my Singer 153W102 the hook saddle and the bobbin case opener finger look quite a bit different than yours, and my machine the opener is adjusted to the opposite end of the adjustment slot to make it work.

Your needle size seems much too small for size 138 thread. This may cause problems because the hole the needle creates is simply too small to consistently pull the knot tight in the center of the material, especially in hard leather. To make room for a lock stitch knot, the hole theoretically needs to be about three times the diameter of the thread. Soft vinyl is much more forgiving. Needle to thread size combinations depend on various factors, but your needle is much too small according to the chart below. Stepping up the needle size may alleviate some of your apparent irregular tension problems. A whole bunch of things have to come together just so to make forward and reverse stitches line up perfectly and knots pulled tight evenly. Change one thing and all bets are off.

There are two clamping blocks on the presser foot bar. The top one makes sure the shaft does not rotate. The bottom one just provides a ledge for the presser foot spring to press down on. The top block has the clamping screw in an obvious, acessibe spot: The bottom block does have a clamping screw, but it's not readily accessible. My guess is that you have to first remove the presser spring, then loosen the top clamping screw, then rotate the presser bar so that you can access the bottom clamping screw from the open end of the head. Whether or not the front-to-back blade mount feet you find will work is not entirely clear. I do have various vintage Singer feet that fit the cross blade mount on Singer 153W100 and similar needle feed models, just in case you see something that will work for you. They're $10 each.

My Pfaff 145/545 PDF manual (Pfaff 145 545 User Manual.pdf) has some service training info appended at the end. It's not quite a full service manual, more like a handout for an instructor led training class, but it's better than nothing.

The Sunstar KM-380 uses "normal" bobbins, similar in size to Pfaff 335. On the plus side, the Sunstar KM-380 does have a full motion feed dog, which is somewhat rare among small diameter cylinder arm machines . On most Pfaff 335 and Adler 69 class machines the feed dog only moves back and forth, but not up and down.

Perhaps I should have said "Sewing 1/16" from the edge along applique curves is actually a very hard thing to do well, no matter what machine you use." Vintage and modern walking foot machines generally share the same inherent advantages and limitations of that design. Modern machines are just more likely to have convenient mounting holes for swing down edge guides, and easy momentary stitch length adjustment for placing stitches in precise locations for corners and peaks, and motor controls that allow precise needle movement. Many machines that are specifically designed to produce a seam 1/16" from the edge employ and edge cutter that cuts off the material 1/16" from the seam as it sews the seam. Below is a photo of a sample I sewed on a Durkopp Adler 1183i with an edge cutter. It may look simple enough at first glance, but I would wager that this is nearly impossible to do on any walking foot machine without an edge cutter. Following curves and peaks that closely is not an easy task even on modern machines that are specifically designed for sewing extremely close to an edge, allow easy on-the-spot-turns, and where nothing obscures needle visibility. The YouTube video where the skilled seamstress/seamster follows an edge of a leaf design looks deceptively easy. I tried something far simpler on the DA 1183i and I failed rather miserably. At some point the operator is the limiting factor, not the tool. I don't really see how an edge guide could be employed to make sewing that leaf easier.