Uwe

Welcome to LW. Juki has a dealer locator on their website https://www.juki.com/distributors-north-america.html . Any Juki dealer should be able to order parts for you. Some of the dealers are here on LW. Online support and ordering options vary.

The only Adler 104/105 manual I have is an all-in-one affair which covers the common elements up front and then has a bunch of subclass specific supplements. There may not be a standalone manual specifically for the Adler 104-64 subclass. Here's the PDF: Adler-104-105-Manuals.pdf

Wow, that is seriously impressive work! There isn't a millimeter to spare anywhere near that reducer pulley. Thank you so much for taking the time to disassemble the parts and document your setup. I had been contemplating mounting a "floating" reducer pulley on a swivel arm, but your solution is way simpler and more elegant than what was bouncing around in my head. I too have a bunch of skate bearings left over from previous projects - time to put them to work. Now I have to figure out workholding for turning my own reducer pulleys. The small pulley seems straightforward enough, but the big pulley stumps me. Is your lathe chuck simply big enough to hold the big pulley on the outside diameter to turn the center hole first? My experience on a lathe is limited and I know just enough to be dangerous and occasionally productive.

Folks, please include links to sources you use whenever possible. I know it's work and not everybody is up for it, but fact checked and/or referenced info is so much more valuable. According to the ISMACS serial number reference the F-8901955 machine was indeed produced in 1919. The ISMACS model reference list does not provide a production date range for the Singer 29K60. So either it's the a Singer 29K60 with the very rare time travel option, or they started making that particular model earlier than stated above (or the type plaque got swapped or misread.) Photos are super helpful. As for your Adler 67GK373, I'm not aware of any resource for dating Adler machines by serial number. You can narrow it down to within a decade or two by looking at dated documentation like parts lists etc. I'd place an Adler 67GK373 in the mid 70's to late 80's. The earliest mention of the Adler 67-GK373 I know of is January 1976 in a German language service manual (Adler-67-GK373-Justieranleitung.pdf - I don't have an English version and I don't do translations, sorry!) The parts list I have for the Adler 67-GK373 is dated 1982 (Adler 67-GK373 Parts List.pdf) . A photo of the machine and type plate may provide clues to narrow down the date range. It's nice to know when a machine was built, but not the end of the world if you don't.

If the metal sheet is thin and soft enough, I doubt the mechanics suffer. Thin copper sheets may work, too. Might be useful for attaching laser-marked or etched name plates or decorative elements. The needle may not be happy for long. Now, what I REALLY want to know is more details on your motor mount and speed reducer pulley. That is probably the cleanest and most compact installation I have ever seen. Can you please make a separate topic on that? I have a few machines with the same form factor I need to motorize.

I'm not really familiar with the Consew 220, but if it's a standard industrial garment machine, this may work: This foot looks like what you're describing, a open quilting foot on a regular industrial garment machine: This Youtube video has a bunch of comments, some with sourcing tips (watch it on youtube to see the comments). Perhaps it will be of help to you:

If you knew that why didn't you say that along with with the question? The machine is hard enough to figure out remotely without trick questions. I don't see why Pfaff would make the large lever purposely operate the way you describe. Maybe parts of the feed mechanism are wrong or totally out of adjustment. Maybe the lever cover plate is incorrect. There are dozens of feed mechanism variations and combinations in the Pfaff 145/545/1245 series alone and there's really no guessing exactly which bits they combined for your machine. My Pfaff 545 with extra long stitch length also does not have reverse, but it also has a special cover plate that restricts movement of the large lever to the top half of the normal range of motion (it also has full FWD at the top position instead of the normal bottom.) This machine is just fountain cool weirdness. Since there are apparently no manuals for this exact model and nobody else has direct experience or access to that model, it's all up to you now. Try out all lever combinations and report back. Find out part numbers of your feed mechanism and compare them to existing manuals. Don't rely on your initial assessment of it being a combination of a Pfaff 145 and a Pfaff 4143 being correct, either. It may look that way at first glance, but so far the functionality details and key part numbers (e.g. looper) don't really support either.

Just flip the big stitch length lever all the up and it should sew in reverse.

Do you know the model number of this machine? It may be an early or transitional Pfaff 571 or Pfaff 474 model where they changed how the stitch length and reverse was controlled (motor controlled bottom wheel drive), and before they got around to changing the casting to remove unused controls. If that's the case there is nothing functional behind that black cover plate. You'll would probably the original Efka controller to set the electronic stitch length control. Here's an example of a Pfaff 474 (the rectangular brown push button in the bed is the reverse button) I found one other example of your machine, which is apparently a Pfaff 1296 model as it came from the factory. Who knows, it may also have a motorized bottom wheel drive.

I have a nearly pristine Durkopp Adler 1183i for sale. This package runs over $7K new. I doubt it has ever been used for more than testing and demo sewing. It can be yours for a firm $2,300. The machine has dual driven wheel feed and an edge trimmer that can be engaged as needed. It's an all-electric full-function machine with foot lift, reverse, back-tack, thread trimming. This type of machine is generally used for car upholstery and shoe work, but is also be suitable for light to medium flat work like wallets, watch bands, belts, canvas bags, and the like. It comes with the finest Efka motor and controls (220V single phase, just like an electric oven or dryer). The machine is mounted in a killer table, by far the best I've ever owned. The table is made in Canada and is super sturdy, electrically height adjustable via toggle button, has manual tilt via hand crank, and lockable wheels. Sales flyer, Spec sheets, user and service manuals for the machine can all be downloaded directly from Durkopp Adler. I prefer local pick-up, but may be willing drive to meet you (not driving it across the border, sorry). You'll need a small enclosed U-Haul trailer or similar. Total weight is about 250-300 lbs. I'm working on a little demo video, but it's not ready yet. Meanwhile, here are a few pictures:

As far as I can tell, the manual only talks about adjusting the feed driving cam. The manual does not talk at all about adjusting the feed lifting cam. The two should be independent and individually adjustable.

To me it does look like the feed dog lifting timing is off. The feed dog comes up much too late. Normally, the feed dog is coming up and level with the throat plate at the same time it is in the very front-most position. It then starts lifting above the throat plate and start moving towards the back immediately after this point. The front-to-back movement of the feed dog looks just right to me. I don't have a Consew 206 or Seiko version machine on hand for testing, but looking at the Seiko parts diagram, I'd focus on the feed lifting cam (30) on the main shaft. Mark where it is now, and then rotate it a little one way or the other to see which direction gives you the correct feed dog lift timing. Can you please post the Seiko Service manual here? It's missing from my manual library. Ask a moderator or admin for help if the PDF is too big for posting. They can post any size document.

Pfaff 335 machines come with different hook sizes depending on vintage and subclass. Modern Pfaff 335 machines have a 40% larger hook. Just get whatever is in your machine now. Shop by part number if possible, based on the parts diagram for your specific machine subclass and vintage.

That 233 094 looper sure looks like it was designed to pick up the thread on the left side of the needle. It might be worth a try to turn the needle around 180˚ to have the scarf face towards the left, and then adjusting the position of the looper to also pass the needle on the left. With a little luck, it'll just work. That's some fancy laser marked number on your part - it may actually be an original Pfaff looper part number 91-233094-05. Not sure which machine it's intended for, though. There's also a good chance that your looper is actually the original, correct Pfaff looper. Perhaps the needle just got turned around at some point by accident. Your looper is an expensive part, too. It shows up in my vendor database for over $120 wholesale - and that's for the generic, non-Pfaff version.

This looks fine to me. Does it not work that way? The spring needs just enough tension to keep the knee pad pushed to the left. Position the movable blocks on the main shaft so that the main shaft has just little play front to back inside the "A"-brackets. The main shaft should have enough play to rotate freely, but not enough play to pop out of the "A"-shaped brackets when you push it towards the back or front. If the "A"-brackets are too far apart, you may have to move one of them. Installing these knee-lift brackets is kind of a pain in the neck (literally).

Are we even sure this is the correct original Pfaff looper? Do we even know what the correct looper looks like? Many Pfaff parts have part numbers on them. The looper may already have been replaced by one that only sorta-kinda works. The geometry of the looper likely determines how big of a loop it holds and how much thread it pulls off the spool. If the loop size is different from what the thread take-up lever is designed to pull tight, then the stitches may be tight or loose no matter what your thread tension settings are. I suspect it's similar to how the thread take up lever has to match the hook size on lockstitch machines. The 102025 looper in the parts diagram looks quite different from the one on your machine.

I'm curious how that Ferdco 2000 got started down path of short feet. I have a feeling that the short foot that came with the Ferdco 2000 was not designed for a 441 class machine. I have a bunch of Singer presser feet (36K class, I think) that will mount nicely on my Ferdco Pro 2000 presser bar. Alas, I'd have to lower the rear presser bar about 1/4" for the feet to actually touch the throat plate. Might be a fine and cheap(er) way to go if you run the machine in Bottom+Needle feed configuration. You just have to decide whether you want to retire that one short foot and raise the presser bar to be compatible with all unmodified 441 style feet again, or if you want to commit to modifying every 441 style foot you buy going forward to make them all match that one not-so-original short foot. At this point you probably already have three short feet and they may be all you ever need and work perfectly on your machine.

I suspect the tip of your looper is worn from touching the needle. In your diagram the tip of looper is pointing away from the needle. I think it used to point towards the needle before it was worn off. In the video, the looper is deflecting the needle a lot. I'm guessing as the lopper tip wore off over time, it was adjusted towards the needle to make it pick up the thread at all, causing even more wear on the looper. The only part number reference I could find is Pfaff 102025 (In the Pfaff 4143 Parts Manual: Pfaff 4143.pdf) . Alas, that part does not appear to exist anywhere online or physically from what I can tell. With a little luck, you may be able to regrind and polish your existing lopper tip a bit, or perhaps a looper from another machine will be compatible .

The clearance on my Singer 111W155 is about two sheets of paper. I don't think this is an area that warrants major expenses or work unless things are way off or worn down. If things are well oiled and moving freely, the cam will barely touch the bottom of that fork if at all. On my machine the underside of the upper arm of the fork is well glazed from constant contact with the lifting cam, the bottom shows almost no wear marks at all. I made a video taking the fork off my machine and inspecting it. If nothing else, it may give you a reference point to compare your machine against.

Personally, I'm waiting for a picture with an arrow. I don't think you all are talking about the same part.

This is turning out to be such a cool machine, I'm getting envious! I'm not sure I've ever seen a walking foot chain stitch machine with a rotating looper like that before. When you get a chance, please post a link to or upload the manual you found for the machine. As for the small lever and the connected push bar, I'm guessing it's for temporarily adjusting the stitch length to be longer than the one dialed in with the large lever. This is very useful because you can only temporarily shorten the stitch length with the large lever by lifting up. To increase the stitch length temporarily with the large lever, you'd have to turn the adjustment knob and then you'd loose your set stitch length. Both levers together give you quick single step stitch length adjustments in both directions to line up with existing stitch holes, turn a precise corner, or to step over something. The push bar with the brass block at the bottom is likely intended for use with a knee lift mechanism so that you can keep your hands on the project while you fine-tune the stitch length for a specific stitch. Using the small lever to override stitch length does not override the maximum stitch length in the rear set by the mechanical limits. I'm guessing you let go of the small lever again before the feet get to the very rear of the movement, especially if you're overriding the longest normal stitch length to be even longer for just one stitch. Letting go of the small lever sets things up again for a normal length next stitch. Since the movement of the small lever / push-up rod is adjustable in its travel limit, you can also use this feature as a quick-select alternate stitch length setting. You can then quickly switch between the two pre-selected stitch lengths by pushing up on the small lever. The knee lever especially would be useful to switch to a longer stitch length for a short run during part of the seam. I can't wait to see a demo video of this machine stitching!

You can also raise the presser foot bar up to where it's supposed to be.

Welcome to LW, Bert! And congratulation for figuring out how to resize and post pictures - it's one of the main challenges for newcomers! So the Pfaff 4145 appears to be a chain stitch variation of the Pfaff 145 design. I had never heard of it before your post - thanks for sharing! It seems like a very rare machine indeed. Hopefully it's complete and doesn't need parts - they may be very hard to find. Can you please post some additional pictures looking into the head from the left, and also pictures of the underside with a close-up of the rotating looper would be interesting. I wonder if the looper design is similar to the Cornely embroidery machines. I came across a reference for the Pfaff 4145 in a regular Pfaff 145 manual :

I'm not a LW moderator, but if I was one, I'd give you a vendor neutral answer that you should look at Juki TSC-441 class machines as an upgrade in capability to your Consew 227r. Juki TSC-441 class machines are still sold as originals by Juki dealers, and also as copies under various brand names (THOR GA 441, Cowboy 4500, Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, and many others) by several vendors, some of which advertise in the banner ads or support the LW community in other ways. Because as a LW moderator, I'd be extra careful not to give the impression that I'm consistently generating leads for any particular vendor. But that's all hypothetical, of course, because I'm not a LW moderator.

Congratulations on scoring a free Adler 30-7! The downside is that everything will seem super expensive from now on. Post a few "before" pictures when you get a chance. Remote internet-based support works best if you can document your story or problem really well. It looks like the part with the gears is part number 030-10-010-0, at least according to the Adler 30-1/-5/-7 parts diagram ( Adler 30-1.pdf) Chances of finding that part new are slim, I'm afraid. Your best hope may be that it's a somewhat generic part that was used in a couple of other machines, or copied from or by others. Or make friends with gifted, bored machinist. On the bright side, that same part/number was carried over into the newer Adler 30-10/-50/-70 models, increasing your chance of finding a replacement. If the newer models aren't dramatically different, the Adler 30 service manual ( adler30servicemanualpdf.pdf) may be of help.