Uwe

The first few of my new batch of UP441-ILSS inline feet are ready and I've updated my Ebay listing (http://r.ebay.com/UhCM8M) for folks outside the U.S.

This Durkopp Adler 69-572 manual request should really have its own, new topic and not be tacked onto the end of an 8 year old thread. The only thing I have is a brochure that describes the different models of the Durkopp Adler 69 class of sewing machines (Durkopp Adler 69 Brochure.pdf). For the person in Brazil: Here's the link for the Google Translate service between English and Portuguese: https://translate.google.com/#en/pt/ Esta solicitação manual Durkopp Adler 69-572 deve realmente ter seu próprio tópico novo e não ser aderido no final de um segmento de 8 anos. O único que tenho é uma brochura que descreve os diferentes modelos da classe Durkopp Adler 69 de máquinas de costura (Durkopp Adler 69 Brochure.pdf). Para a pessoa no Brasil: Aqui está o link para o serviço Google Translate entre inglês e português: https://translate.google.com/#en/pt/

I'm working on another batch. They'll be ready shortly..

You can also remove the brake pad on those FamilySew style motors. Personally I strongly dislike those brakes. In my experience I was much more likely to accidentally start the motor while depressing the pedal just so while leaning in to position something. For me it's actually safer to remove the brake pad and keep the foot off the pedal as I turn the handwheel and manipulate the workpiece. This machine will stop quickly when you let go of the pedal, brake or not. It's a different story on racehorse garment machines galloping along at 3000 stitches per minute. It's also a different story on a car. Even without brake pads the handwheel will be somewhat hard to turn due to the speed reducer pulley.

I'd recommend taking time to read the manual for the machine and checking the specs. Trying to make the machine do things it wasn't designed for isn't a path to a happy place. Installing stronger springs doesn't make the machine more capable.

"Good", "affordable" and "post" don't often go together. Machines that meet two out of the three criteria are readily available.

OP edited post and added the price after my comment. Now we know.

This belongs in the Market Place forum section for sewing machines (http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/) . Maybe one of the admins like @northmount or @Wizcrafts can move it there. You'll have to state a price and hopefully upload some pictures, too, per LW Marketplace rules. Location info is important.

Beautiful machine! You need to state a price per LW marketplace rules.

I have a feeling the diagram is intended as installation instructions, not adjustment. There is apparently precisely one correct alignment for these parts and it should never change once assembled. However, if the alignment does change due to some forceful crash, part replacement, or a well-meaning tinkerer with a screwdriver, these parts need to be brought back into alignment in order for the rest of the machine to make sense.

I really want to see a video of it sewing a skate tongue.

You have to pull the thread up past the little hook on the check spring unit.

Thanks and yes, the Pfaff 145 has reverse.

Closely inspect your top thread path, or better yet, pull out the top thread and thread it again perfectly.

I don't have a Pfaff 463, but from what I can tell it's a very different design from the common walking foot machines we often talk about. The reason the service manual doesn't talk about the timing belt synchronization is because the adjustment happens in the link between the top shaft and the needle bar driver. On many machines the link between top shaft , thread-take-up lever linkage, and needle bar driver is locked in place and not adjustable. That is why the synchronization marks are used. This Pfaff 463 design is very different. The linkage in the head is adjustable and that's why it doesn't make sense to talk about synchronizing the upper and lower shaft. Instead, you adjust the relative position of take-up lever and needle bar, and then you adjust hook and feed timing based on the needle bar position. The relative positions of the top and bottom timing belt cogs are not really a factor in this. I came across the diagram below as a loose leaf insert in another Pfaff service manual. Your machines may work the same way, but I'm not positive. In any case, it's a quick visual check to see if your machine is aligned like the diagram below shows. If it isn't, that may be a good starting point for investigation. Why that diagram is not part of the service manuals, I have no idea.

That sure is a beautiful machine! Congratulations on your new addition!

One other thing to check is to make sure your top and bottom shafts are synchronized properly. The thread take-up lever needs to be in the very bottom position precisely when the thread is being wrapped around the farthest point around the hook. It's an easy visual check, just remove the hook cover plate and turn the machine slowly by hand. If the take-up lever timing is late due to incorrect timing belt position it will not provide enough slack and more top thread will be pulled from the spool as the thread gets forced around the hook. In this case the thread take-up lever will never get a chance to pull the knot tight, regardless of thread tension settings.

The short answer is a general "no", I'm afraid. Here's a thread that talks about just that:

That's a habit you should discontinue. It's like resting your left foot on the clutch (or the brake) while you drive - nothing good can come from it. Your foot lift thread tension release mechanism may be engaging too early or not releasing properly. The pin (no. 20) that pushes from the back of the machine against the plate behind the tension unit should have a little bit of play during normal sewing. Perhaps this mechanism is gummed up or sticky and never really lets go properly, thereby always working against the tension spring. One way to check this is to remove the pin 20 altogether for testing. To do this remove the tension unit, pull out pin 20, and the reinstall the tension unit. This will disable the foot lift activated thread tension release mechanism and lets you verify if the thread tension unit itself is working properly. If the machine sews fine without pin 20, then the problem is in your foot lift thread tension release mechanism. If you still cannot adjust thread tension properly, then it's time to carefully check how the thread gets wrapped around the hook. It may snag somewhere or your bobbin case opener may not work properly.

You really need to call the (Leather Machine co. ) Cobra folks for info and a sales pitch. There is virtually no information published on either of theses machines, no specs, no manuals, only one postage stamp size picture on their website and a price. They say they do this on purpose so that you call them. That approach must appeal to some subset of the market - it certainly doesn't work for me.

The Kenmore is a domestic machine and the Singer is a domestic machine pretending not to be a domestic machine. Neither of them will do what you want to do well, if at all. Save your money towards a proper industrial leather sewing machine Read the sticky note near the top of this category : Watch canvas bag master @AlexanderDyer sew a heavy canvas bag and note what types of machines he uses:

$279 according to the Merrow.com website. Not really big bucks, but in the USA, any table over $100 is considered big bucks. I wish there were more Merrow and Kessler tables out there.

That Rex motor looks very much the Family Sew variety. Your main problem may be that these motors originate in the metric part of the universe and you're trying to match up an imperial pulley. My Family Sew motor has a 15mm shaft and I got some SM50 50mm pulleys at UniversalSewing.com a while ago that fit nicely.

I'm normally a Pfaff fan, but I'm getting bad vibes from that CL ad. To me it looks like it's been driven hard by uncaring people, and then suffered a botched paint job. It ranks on my desirable-o-meter scale right up there with a once-fabulous 80's BMW that now has a body by Bondo®, a window held up with duct tape, and a spray can paint job. It may also just be a clone, not a genuine Pfaff, like Joe suggested. $600 for a serviceable genuine Pfaff is okay, but $600 for a worn-out clone is too much. It may look better in person, but normally it's the other way around. For the archive:

The problem with links to Ebay ads and their pictures is that they will disappear very soon. That link will be useless a few months from now. Only images that get uploaded directly here on LW stick around for a long time for future reference (site admins willing.) It would be great if some motivated person with an interest in vintage decals (yay Tony!) could download the pictures from the ebay ad and then upload them here.