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The Consew 227R is supposed to be able to use up to size #23 needle, according to the Consew 227R manual (spec table below.) Feed dogs from other machines or manufacturers may fit the machine but may not have quite the right shape to allow for the same needle range. If the feed dog is cheap, a Dremel may fix that problem. You may also be able to adjust the position of the feed dog carrier slightly to the left to provide a little more clearance. It's important that the needle stays centered with the hole in the feed dog, otherwise it'll start hitting the feed dog when it gets deflected.

You may also be able to grind the feed dog a little with a Dremel style tool to improve clearance for the needle. As Bob mentioned, the needle guard should just brush up against the needle, not deflect it much to the left. At some point you will just run into the design limitation of the machine, which only has room built-in for a certain size needle. Here's a video snippet I made when we first talked about hook timing on this machine. I thought I'd share it here again for all. It shows how the needle guard should brush up against the needle and protect it when the needle gets deflected towards the hook.

I remember making this adjustment described in the Singer 153W manual on my Singer 153W102, which is very similar to the Consew 227 in this mechanism:

Yes, that is definitely way too much play in that feed dog. Either there are some screws loose or parts are worn and/or misaligned. Exactly which is the case is hard to tell without sitting in front of the machine. Based on the video, here's my take:

Certain Singer 7 class machines can be upgraded/retrofitted with a set of parts that replace the original stitch length adjustment mechanism (feed eccentric). The new parts add the combination stitch-length/reverse lever on the back of the machine that you normally operate via a foot pedal chain. Limit screws on top and bottom of the lever travel allow you to adjust forward and backward stitch length independently to make them match up on whatever material you're sewing. I've not yet done the conversion myself, actually. It's a very desirable upgrade to that class of machines, I think.

We should really continue the power conversion discussion in the topic below:

Disclaimer: Don't blame me if your machine/house/neighborhood goes up in flames while attempting what I describe below. If you have any doubts whatsoever about doing this - DON'T! I did some testing on my Durkopp Adler 467 setup that uses an Efka motor and control box that is similar to what is on the DA 291 pictured above. I already had a static 3-phase converter made by American Rotary (1/2-3HP rating, $65). I wanted to see if it would power the machine. Executive summary: The machine did power up, the motor also spun right up. No electrical smell/smoke/fire/explosion. Unfortunately I wasn't really able to test the machine during normal use since it was sitting in my 40˚F garage and its joints were stiff (as were mine.) So, while initial results are encouraging, I don't yet have full confidence in this setup until I can test it fully under normal operating conditions. I added a 2-pole switch to disconnect the power from the 3-phase converter when not in use. Do NOT connect the plug to the wall outlet until you are positive that all the wiring is correct! Here's a wiring schematic of how I connected the pieces: The actual real-world wiring looks a little messy. I hope the annotations help: I did swap T1 and T2 wires inside the 3-phase converter to change the rotation of the motor. You will read in many places that to change the rotation of a 3-phase motor, you can swap any two wires. The only two wires you are allowed to swap in this scenario with a static phase converter is T1 and T2! Otherwise you will send crappy T3 power to the control box and it may die. With static phase converters T3 can only be used to help get the motor spinning! Since there are no guarantees how wiring runs through the machine's on-off switch, you can't count on wire colors matching up end-to-end. You really have to verify which wire in the phase converter (T1,T2,T3) matches up with which wire (L1,L2,L3) in the wiring box on the motor. I turned on the machine's on/off switch, disconnected the wires (T1,2,3 inside the phase converter and L1,2,3 in the motor connector box) and used a multimeter to check continuity between wire ends to positively identify which wire goes where. Of course I did all this before I ever connected to the wall outlet!

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Here's the Singer 7-31 Parts Manual (SINGER 7-31.pdf ) snippet that explains the difference between a Singer 7-31 and a Singer-7-33. It essentially is just a different hand wheel. The Singer 7-31 originally had a wheel with a built-in clutch mechanism that was designed for overhead drivelines in a factory. It's probably safe to say that most surviving Singer 7-31 outside of factories have been converted to 7-33's with a handwheel that accommodates under-the-table motors and normal V-belts.

I have a very nicely refurbished Singer 7-31 for sale. This one has the retrofit reverse mechanism installed for pedal operated reverse. It also has a normal, yet monstrous, hand wheel installed which apparently turns it into a Singer 7-33 (the type plate still says 7-31, though) Everything works just like it should. The Serial Number is AF-529180, which indicates it was born in 1940. The head by itself is $1,600 if you pick it up in the Detroit Area. Do some Googling and you'll realize that this is a great price. The closest new machine with similar specs and features (e.g. Consew 733R) runs upwards of $6K. The Sewpro SP1100 1,100 watt servo motor that you see in the photos and that was used in the demo video below is an optional $250. The motor is new and has only been used to test and demo this machine. Shipping is available if you are willing to arrange it. Send me a PM for details. Here's a demo video I made sewing some heavy webbing material on this machine: And here are some photos that show the overall condition of the machine:

Ah, the joys of technical translations. I'm sure the manual actually does call it that, but it's really just a case of a poor translation of the original German term "Spulengehäuse-Lüfter," where "Spulengehäuse" means "bobbin case", but "Lüfter" only sounds like "lifter." (similar to another popular mistake like translating a phrase like "Ich bekam einen Computer" as "I became a computer" instead of "I got a computer.") The function of the part is to open a passageway for the thread, not to lift anything up. "Lüften" means, among other things, to open a passageway. Sometimes you do lift something up to open a passageway, but not really on bobbin cases. So, rather than perpetuate an instance of poor translation, it's better to use the term "bobbin case opener", which is the term generally accepted and used in manuals that were authored in English and not translated from some other language. There you have it - more than you ever wanted to know about that obscure detail. As for the groove under the bobbin tension spring on the bobbin case cap, it may be getting worn but I doubt it's bad enough to cause a problem yet. It's really the tip of the spring blade that provides the bobbin thread tension (unless you overtighten the spring blade adjustment screw). Two of my Adler x67/x69 bobbin case caps have similar grooves, but to varying degrees. New replacement caps are not cheap, I'm afraid.

Can you please post your parts list here so that others can find it in the future?

Perhaps the Toyota is just a re-badged machine for the Australian market that was made by somebody else. With "LS2" in the name, Mitsubishi may be a candidate. Also check out this older LW topic on the Toyota LS2:

I have a strong feeling it's not the machines or the vendors that are the problem here. Between the Techsew and the Atlas you managed to turn two brand new machines into door stops. Put down the screw driver and step away from the machines. Let somebody else find the screws you loosened and forgot to tighten again.

Congratulations on your new arrival! It's most likely that the machine will need some adjustments to work properly. That's just normal and does not affect its value. If parts are missing or broken, that's a different story. However, if you have to get a service technician to come out every time it needs and adjustment, that will add up over time. There's a lot you can do yourself if you are the least bit mechanically inclined. If you want remote, internet-based help, then you'll have to describe problems and details as precisely as possible and provide good photos or videos. You can crowdsource a lot of help right here on LW if you are patient and have a tolerance for noise and opinions. If you prefer one-on-one help for specific troubleshooting or adjustment, I'm one of the people who offer remote one-on-one service calls. An Adler 220 Parts Diagram (Adler 220 parts.pdf) will be helpful in working on the machine and to identify parts in question.

That machine looks a lot like a Rex 11-155, which was made by Nakajima, which later was absorbed by Juki. There was a topic about the Rex 11-155 some time ago, mostly relating to the reverse mechanism of that machine.

Did you take a picture of the machine? It would be a great starting point. Most vintage machines Consew sold were re-badged machines made by manufacturers like Seiko. Finding out what the original is may be your best hope of finding documentation. Posting detailed pictures of the Consew 39 machine is a great start to find out what the original may be.

More all-googling and all-manual-reading than all-knowing, really. That German paragraph above reads: Motors that have serial numbers beginning with 7,8, or 9 start poorly or not at all due to differences in winding paths and rotor geometry (to start these motors a 40μF capacitor would be required, but it would draw a lot of current during idling and heat up.) Motors that have serial numbers starting with 10,11, 12 or 6,5,4 have no trouble starting up. My DA467 has an Efka VarioStop setup with 3-phase motor that are apparently a candidate to run nicely on single phase 220V. In North America 220V power supply uses two powered wires (it's different in Europe and elsewhere.) You can hook up those two power wires (L1, L2) to the terminals that continue on to the control box (red and black wires in the picture below). The terminal with the yellow incoming wire would be empty. You may still need to add a suitable capacitor. I've not yet tried this myself. Here's a picture of my DA467 Efka wiring box with 3-phase wiring. Single phase wiring would not have the yellow incoming wire. Another option that is less expensive and less bulky than a rotary phase converter would be a static phase converter. It basically does the same capacitor-based third leg generation as in the diagram above to get the motor started. But with a static phase converter you should also make sure that the two original power wires (L1,L2) that are passed straight through are the ones that also go to the control box. Here's a picture of the inside of my $70 static phase converter, which is essentially a capacitor with some added circuitry and a relay to turn power on and off when the generated third leg is available: And, just for reference and to illustrate the bulk of what I consider a "proper" rotary setup, here's a picture of my 3HP, 120 lb rotary phase converter setup, which cost me about $600 to put together. I added some displays to check how balanced my three phases are (they balance out nicely during actual use, this is the "idle" picture):

Thanks for the additional info an link to the cross reference ( I had looked at it before and forgotten all about it )

I'm afraid the Simanco part number and picture alone is not enough information. It should be, but it's not. There's no cross-reference that correlates Singer screw part numbers to thread size that I know of. There's isn't even a good way to find out which Singer machines that screw was used in. The usual wholesale vendor suspects do not show that screw part number at all. If you can tell us what machine model the screw came from and where on the machine that screw is located (a photo of the crime scene would be great!) then we have a better chance to figure out what the thread size is.

@AdamPCain : No, the servo motor controller has to support the input from the needle position sensor. Not all controllers have that feature. @Reacher10 The needle positioning problem with speed reducers usually stems from the fact that most controllers have an internal programming rule that limits how many motor revolutions it will attempt to reach the desired needle position before it gives up. If the needle position sensor does not give the "we have arrived" signal before the maximum number of allowed motor revolutions is reached, an error condition will trigger. It's a safety feature to keep the motor from spinning uncontrolled forever when you let go of the pedal and the position sensor has failed. The motor controller basically thinks there is something wrong with the needle position sensor because it's not reporting back in time. Exactly what that limit is depends on the controller software.

They've had email troubles in the past. Perhaps @CowboyBob or his webmaster @Wizcrafts aren't yet aware of the problem.

It's Kijiji Ad ID: 1331543311 I'd be surprised if they wanted to bother with shipping.

Congratulations on your new acquisition! That control panel is really an EFKA V720 with a Durkopp Adler logo on it. Here's the manual for the Efka V720 control panel: EN_BA_V720_7_7__210995.pdf