Uwe

This looks a lot like a repainted Singer 31-17 to me. It's hard to tell for sure without seeing the underside hook and transport mechanism. Manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364529/Singer-31-17.html

That Chandler C-241 likely started life as a Juki DNU-241HS (or a Nakajima 280L). Chandler sold re-badged machines from various manufacturers over the years. The Juki DNU241HS manual, should be a good starting point. The Juki DNU-241HS Parts List should help identify part numbers of missing bits. Your machine will likely have some stamped metal parts underneath or inside that will give you a clue as to the original manufacturer.

You are probably talking about the check spring on your thread tension assembly. If by "turned the controller back and forth" you mean turning the little thumb screw nut on the check spring split post, that unfortunately is NOT where you adjust the tension for that spring. That thumb screw nut is more of a lock nut that holds the check spring discs in place. Your check spring should be able to move freely. Sometimes the spring gets caught under the thumb nut as you tighten it - that prevents the check spring from moving freely and operating properly. Make sure your check spring moves freely and then see if your problem persists. The tension of the check spring can be adjusted, it's just not obvious how it works. I was motivated and made a video that hopefully explains how the check spring adjustment works:

In my experience welding can be very tricky and requires rather expensive gear. You don't really want to melt the part, which will definitely affect its hardness or any tempering. Personally I found it much easier to do silver soldering. I made some custom binder parts a while ago and used silver solder to connect the pieces. The best silver solder option I've come across on this side of the pond is called Stay Brite silver solder and the Stay Clean flux liquid. I bought mine at the local heating and refrigeration supply store. I don't know if this brand is available in Europe. The nice thing about this particular silver solder is that it melts at a comparatively low 430˚F (221˚C), which is well below the temperature that would affect hardness or tempering treatments of any metal part you're repairing. Practice on some other parts first. Clean the parts to be repaired with some acetone, then hold the part in a metal clamp and put the broken part in place. Heat the whole thing up with a cheap torch like a propane torch for making plumbing repairs. Drip some flux liquid on the cracks and heat it to just above the melting point of the silver solder. Remove the flame and touch the silver solder wire to the cracks. The hot metal part should melt the silver solder as it touches and suck it into the crack by capillary action. Sounds like a good candidate for a demo video.

A new part (Pfaff # 91-048319-04/002) will cost you around $350-$400 (OUCH!) based on pricing info from my sources here in the U.S. Generic vs. OEM pricing is very close, too. This would be a good time to read up on hard soldering, brazing, silver soldering etc. Looks like a clean break and should be repairable. The part is listed on page 4 of the Pfaff 595 Unterklassen-Ausstattung document.

Make sure your bobbin case opener is adjusted properly. The bobbin case tab in the throat plate cutout needs enough wiggle room to let the thread through. The tab wants to rest against the far edge of the cutout because of the clockwise rotation of the hook. The tab needs to be pulled back (counterclockwise) at the right moment just long enough to let the thread pass on the rear. The bobbin case opener arm does this. To adjust it, turn the handwheel until the bobbin case opener arm is at its right-most position. Keep the handwheel in this position. At this point the bobbin case tab should be pulled far enough from the rear edge of the throat plate cutout to let the thread pass through. The bobbin case itself should have only a tiny amount of play without binding between hitting the bobbin case opener arm and hitting the front edge of the throat plate cutout. If that's not the case loosen the screw that hold the bobbin case opener arm and slide the bobbin case opener arm until the tab is almost, but not quite, touching the front of the throat plate cutout. The bobbin case should be able to wiggle a tiny bit to make sure it doesn't bind. I had one new throat plate that just didn't have enough of a cutout and I had to file and enlarge the cutout and polish it to let thread pass through properly. Don't start filing until you're positive it's necessary and don't file the throat plate while it's mounted in the machine! Lots of words, sorry. Perhaps this video (about a different topic) shows how the bobbin case opener pulls back the tab just as the thread needs to slip through.

Sometimes that big tension release pin is just worn at the tips and not long enough anymore. I've made my own replacement pins from piano wire of same thickness and rounding/polishing both ends - worked beautifully. That pin should slide through the body front to back very easily. There's also a teeny-tiny pin inside the post that holds the tension discs. It often gets lost when people disassemble the tension unit. That pin is so tiny you hardly notice it when it makes its escape. Without that tiny pin, the tension release will not work at all. The two tension disks are also not identical. One has a hole in the center, the other has a hole with a bar across the center. That center bar is what the tiny pin pushes against to separate the tension disks. If the disks are reversed, or both have a hole, or both have a bar, tension release will also not work at all.

By the way, the pin that goes through the machine to push the tension discs apart when you lift the foot is really optional and more of a convenience feature. The tension release pin should have no effect while sewing - in fact it shouldn't even be touching the back of the tension unit while sewing. Most machines sew just fine with that pin removed. The tension release pin just makes it easier to remove the material when you stop sewing, because you're not yanking on the thread while it's still has tension applied to it.

That 1508 has the exact same tension unit as your 562 - it won't solve your slippery thread problems. I'd experiment with thread path variations before giving up on the 562 and throwing money at something essentially identical. This is how you normally thread the tension unit: If your thread is too slippery to stay between the tension discs you can try this variation, looping the thread around the pin that keeps the tension discs from spinning: If that still doesn't work you can rotate the thread guide down (loosen set screw, rotate, tighten) to bring the incoming thread closer and lower to the tension discs: If your thread is still popping out from between the tension discs, then there's something else going on. Take the tensions discs out and inspect them . They should be flat on the inner part and only have and flare/curve on outer edge.

Instruction and adjustment manuals for modern, new casting of the Pfaff 1245: ba_1245_05-12_e.pdf Pfaff-1245-Adjustment-Manual.pdf

I don't think the Singer 211G165 has an oil sump or a pump. It has little oil reservoirs that need to keep filled. It may have an oil drip pan, but it's not for recirculating the oil, it just catches the occasional drips. A gallon of Lily While Oil will work fine for lubricating your machine and last you a lifetime. Get a little oil bottle with a long thin spout to reach tight places. Spend some quality time with the Singer 211G165 Manual - Just read at first and don't start turning screws until you understand what's going on. Feet and such are readily available from many of our vendors that advertise in the banner ads - you'll get some free advice to go along with your feet.

Rule #1 of sewing machines: don't turn a screw unless you know what it does The first screw in your picture holds the check spring stud assembly (and the whole tension unit) in place. If you loosen it you can adjust the check spring tension. But it's really a set/lock screw, not an adjustment screw. (By the way, in your first picture the thread isn't pulled between the tension discs. Your thread tension will never work properly unless you pull the thread between the discs.) The pin you're pointing at in the second picture pushes forward and causes the thread tension to be released. My video on replacing the thread tension release guide shows how that pin works:

I got the machine to work, yay! I switched two leads inside the motor connector box and the 3-phase clutch motor spun the correct direction. The Efka controller is a 4P35P377Y2 The closest Efka Manual I could find was the Efka 4P35A Manual, which talks about all the functions this controller has (I think.) So the machine works and I'm very happy about that. I'd feel even better if I understood exactly how and why it works. I'm not 100% convinced yet that the lubrication system works as it should - I'm not seeing any bubbling or splashing of oil in the upper viewing window. I did fill up the reservoir, which, for some reason, was empty! The underside of the machine looks intimidating and complex. This Adler and Efka combo has quite a few automated and switch actuated functions: Automatic starting lock stitches and end lock stitches (optional and configurable) activated by brief pedal taps front and back. Reverse via a little finger-operated toggle switch. Very cool, quick foot lift adjustment for alternate, maximum foot lift activated via knee switch for climbing over seams etc. Foot lift via pedal heeling. The automated thread cutter may need a little tweaking - it cuts most of the time but not always. Speed control on this system is actually really good - I was surprised. This Efka may be the first clutch motor drive systems I actually liked! Here's a demo video I made for the potential buyer of this machine:

You have to change out your feed dog, too. The feed dog that accompanies the binder plate is much taller than a normal feed dog.

That ought to quiet down the constant chorus about how expensive parts are for Pfaff machines. $15 is almost too cheap to consider. I can't even ship an empty box across the pacific for that money, let alone manufacture parts to put in the box. No wonder there is hardly any manufacturing left outside of Asia. For that little money I'm picturing kids with bloody hands coughing up their lungs from the toxic fumes in the factory. In reality the $39 version I pointed out is only marginally more ethical to buy.

Thanks Eric, I was hoping you'd chime in!

Not to worry, after January 20th the U.S. will standardize on a"T" shaped plug without ground and only a 50% chance of electrocuting yourself when you plug it in.

I received the machine as part of a larger inventory, So I don't have any history for it other than that it once sewed La-Z-Boy brand reclining chairs. In the U.S. there are at least six different plugs in use for connecting 220V 3-Phase power, so it's quite likely that the plug was changed at some point to accommodate a certain wall outlet.

I'm working on an Adler 467-FA373 with an Efka Variostop control box and 220V 3-Phase motor. Everything seems to work fine except the motor spins backwards! I've looked through the Efka manuals, but found nothing about reversing the motor rotation. Before I change the wiring on the plug or motor itself to swap two of the three power leads (the standard way to reverse a 3-phase motor), I wanted to check with the Efka experts here in case I'm missing something ("Hey just flip this switch!") I'm a little concerned that if I change the wiring to suit my current 220V 3-phase power outlet at TechShop, that my potential customer will plug the machine into their 3-phase outlet and the motor will not spin in the right direction. I'm attaching a few picture of the machine and the Efka bits.

To me, the Adler 169 really looks like a hybrid/transitional machine with an Adler 69 head and with a Duerkopp Adler 269 arm. Since there are no Adler 169 manuals to be found, I'd take a closer look at the Adler 69 service manual for things going on inside the machine head, and the Adler 269 service manual for things that go on inside the arm.

http://www.mpl.es/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/300795.pdf

One of the cheapest and perfectly functional option is a FamilySew FL-550 class motor with a small 2" pulley, available from several of our banner vendors and on Ebay.It's not the best, but it works just fine for many folks.

The cheapest and perhaps most reliable way to answer your questions is to buy a cheap set of parts and just try it out (I have the parts you listed, but I don't have a Consew 277RFS) Kunpeng has a complete Pfaff 335 binder kit for sale on ebay for $39. I had ordered one some time ago and they work just fine on a Pfaff 335. If those parts fit your Consew 277RFS, anything else made for the Pfaff 335 arm should fit, too. If they don't fit, you can sell the parts again and not loose much if any money. You can also buy the Kwok Hing version of that binder kit from me ($169 on ebay) with quicker delivery and better return options, but it's really not $130 better than the Kunpeng version. Once you've verified proper fit, I have the 335-S3/S4 gauge set from Kwok Hing for sale and on hand ($99 plus shipping). Here's a screenshot of the KunPeng Ebay listing:

That depends on your definition of best and your budget.

Your top threading path isn't quite right from what I can make out. Here are some pictures of how I would thread my Pfaff 593. I've not yet sewn with my Pfaff 593, but this seems like a good starting point to me. Make sure you actually pull the thread between the tension discs.