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I stumbled across a suitable set of measuring cups at a local surplus retailer and decided to have a go at a stainless steel cap for my Mitsubishi CU-865. $10 for a set of four measuring cups and the 1/4-cup in that set was the right candidate. Here are some pictures. It turned out almost as nice as the $125 Pfaff version, I think.

Sewpro does not have the SP-1100 motor (or SP-1100 NPFL with needle position and foot list) on their website yet, I'm not sure why. They had brought the motor to the TexProcess trade show in Atlanta last May, which is where I first met Sergey (Mr. SewProUSA) and we talked about the motor at length. Excellence in sewing technology and webmastering don't always go hand-in-hand. You basically have to call and inquire about the motor, something rather common in the sewing machine world. One key feature I like about this motor system, aside from the power and low speed torque, is actually the control interface. You can control the needle position function with a simple button that cycles through Up/Down/Off states, which is how it should be. Motor top speed is adjusted via simple "+" or "-" buttons, which is also how it should be. Other, more esoteric functions are set via a crude menu system that is just as cryptic as other controllers. The needle position sensor is optional and runs about $25, I think. I'm not connected to SewPro in any way other than having talked to Sergey and ordered two of his SP-1100 motors. I just like the motor, that's all. I took a few pictures of my SP-1100 NPFL motor, which is currently serving mobile test setup duty. The motor body itself measures about 4" square on the mounting faceplate and 6" long (not counting the pulley).

Most hooks of that style have a tension spring that can be adjusted. The bobbin usually spins counter-clockwise. The thread gets pulled through the slot in the bobbin case and under the blade of the tension spring. The thread needs to emerge from under the tip of the tension spring. The bobbin case tension spring has two screws, one fixed and one for adjusting tension. An eyeglass repair screwdriver from the drug store works well for working on these tiny screws. Bobbin tension should be very light - just barely noticeable when pulling out the thread with your fingers.

The left side looks better, if not quite good. Perhaps you were listening to Les Miserable and when she said "There was a time when it all went wrong" your top thread popped out of the tension discs.

Maybe your hook is correct after all. This picture from MooseTrading shows details and (slightly wrong, but workable) top threading path (visit http://www.moosetrading.com/sites/default/files/products/img_20150310_131615127.jpg for high-resolutuion image) I need to make one of those cool see-through slide covers!

It's hard to tell, but the machine looks a bit incomplete and slightly messed up. There may be a reason it was so cheap. This machine isn't even close to worry about the bobbin thread tension. It's like worrying about tire pressure when you're missing the steering wheel and seats in your car. Post a couple of pictures of the head from different angles and underneath. We may be able to figure what you're missing or what needs fixing. Don't hook up a motor until you can hand turn perfect stitches. A lot of damage can be caused under motor power if parts are missing or wrong.

The hook does not look like a Pfaff hook for that machine. The original would have a bobbin cap. A hook from a different machine may not work at all. The Pfaff 1445 Parts Manual will be a good reference for finding out which parts may be missing or wrong. Your hook and bobbin case/cap should like similar to this:

Those pictures are smaller than the bobbin itself! I can't see much of anything. When re-sizing a picture, aim for a pixel count of around 1000 in the long dimension.

It doesn't look like the Juki TSC-441 (Cowboy 4500 etc. ) style throat plates will work, at least not without modification. I took a picture of my 441 plate and sized it to match the scale of your photo. I lined up the needle slots on both plates, so you can see where the other dimensions line up or not. The Cowboy holster and stirrup plates are not exactly cheap at $160 each - a bit expensive for experiments.

Quite often a needle breaks because it's being deflected as it's going down and it hits the feed dog instead of the hole in the feed dog. At the right speed this will break a needle every time, no matter what size or tip. Make sure your needle points at the center of the feed dog hole when no material is in play (check service manual for specifics.) You need to support your workpiece so that it does not pull or push in any direction as the machine sews - that's often not easy to do. If you're letting a heavy bag, or a whole saddle dangle from the end of your cylinder arm, your needle is doomed. You also need to make sure your workpiece lays perfectly flat on the throat plate so that the needle does not hit a slope as it goes down. According to the Durkopp Adler 8967 manuals, your machine uses needle System 2134-35, which may not be the same as System 134-35. The slim cylinder arm machines are usually designed for light to medium duty work. If your "pretty thick leather" is a couple layers of 10 oz. veg tan, your needle (and eventually the machine) is doomed. For "pretty thick leather" you probably need a Juki TSC-441 or Adler 205 class machine.

Here's a quick visual comparison of bobbin sizes:

We just really need to know what the measurements on that Ferdco machine are, otherwise it's just a mildly entertaining "guess what the dimensions of my obscure Ferdco machine are" game. It's kind of backwards.

I actually have one of the Harbor Freight hydraulic lift tables,which is super useful in many situations and it's great for moving heavy table-top machines like the Landis 16 or the Puritan from the storage shelf to the work surface. But that table actually weighs 190 lbs all by itself, so getting it in and out of my car for pickups and deliveries is a no-go. Also, the lowest it will go is about 11 inches off the ground. I'd love to have something compact and portable with lift arms that I can use with a sling to lift one of my 200+ pounds long arm beasts into and out of a table safely by myself. I also have a big manual pallet stacker, but that thing is way too big and will never make it inside the house.

Personally, the only clutch motors I like are the ones attached to fancy Efka controllers. Unless you have some nostalgic attachment to plain clutch motors, there's really no need to subject yourself to them. Even a $115 cheapo servo motor with a small 2" pulley will make a world of difference. For around $200 you can buy one of my personal favorites, a Sewpro 1,100W servo motor with plenty of low-end torque and very low 100rpm starting speed (most other servo motors start spinning with 300 rpm.)

Looking good! Love that lift cart, too - I need one of those. That's a very nice table setup, actually.

The Adler 220 machines do have reverse, just via foot pedal instead of hand lever (note the three pedals; foot lift, speed, reverse)

Here's the spec sheet for the Adler 220: Leaflet_Adler_class_220 (1).pdf It should have better specs than the Juki 562 all around. HUGE bobbins. Very desirable and capable machines in my mind. If that CL machine works, it's a steal at $650.

How about a few pictures of your and Ferdinand 900b Bull with close-up of the hook and needle plate area (hook cover cap open or removed?) We're just guessing otherwise. Ferdinand changed base machines for their modified version over time. If your machine is based on this version of the Consew 754r: then it's really a Seiko CH-7B: and that machine's business end looks more like an Adler 205 style to me: Adler 205 and Juki 441 style plates my still fit your Ferdinand, or fit with minor modifications. I have one flat-top harness maker throat plate that fits nicely on both Adler 205 and Juki 441 designs, you just have to use small washers or different throat plate mounting screws with larger heads on the 441 designs.

Never heard of Apex Tuffmaster before, but it sure looks just like an Adler 220 to me. Casting details are very close to mine, which is less complete and not quite as pretty right now. Perhaps a copy or a importer re-badge job just like Chandler's re-badge of the Adler 67. Might be worth checking out in person. Those machines are wicked heavy and awkward to move - I can barely lift one end of it myself. Don't just plop the head on the concrete floor either - the front end will be resting on fragile hook bits instead of sturdy frame casting parts.)

What you probably really need is a feed-off-the-arm zig-zag machine like the SewPro 2156 shown in the video below. They are complex specialty machines and not cheap. Sewpro is located in Ephrata, PA, a bit less of a logistical challenge than ordering directly from China.

In the absence of a service manual for the exact machine you have, a manual for a close relative or successor model is the next best thing. The Durkopp Adler Manuals Resource page actually has a full set of documentation listed for the Adler 221, including an Adler 221 service manual. With a little luck, there will be a LOT of carryover from the Adler 220 design.

There's a chance that the lack of synchronization marks is due to fact that the shafts may not need to be synchronized. On the Adler 220 the front/back movement of the feed dog is directly linked to the stitch length excenter on the top shaft. The hook position can be adjusted freely and is not tied to the top/bottom drive shaft synch position. The only thing potentially affected by the relative top/bottom drive shaft position is the up/down movement of the feed dog. There's a little excenter on the bottom drive shaft that moves the feed dog fork up and down. If that excenter can be independently adjusted, there's really nothing left to synchronize between top and bottom drive shaft, which would explain the lack of synchronization marks. I don't know this for certain yet - moving my Adler 220 from its storage spot to verify is not practical right now. On most machines with a triple feed walking foot design, the general rule for vertical movements of needle, inner presser foot and feed dog is: When the descending needle tip is level with the top of the throat plate, both the descending inner presser foot and ascending feed dog should also be level with the top of the throat plate. This should be easy to verify. One other timing aspect that affects smoothness of a machine is the relative position of the thread take-up lever and the hook. Verify that the thread take-up lever is at its very bottom position exactly when the thread wraps around the farthest point of hook. If that is not the case you may get thread snapping noises and other unrefined side effects.

I'm certainly not the first one to do this and tables that are designed with wheels in mind are the best solution. But I wanted to figure out a way to retrofit my tables with removable wheels that wouldn't raise the table much and be very sturdy. I spent the day at Techshop to put my Adler 467 on "proper" wheels. I have to move it from storage area to the work area whenever I want to use it. It's been strapped on top of mover's dollies, but that was just a temporary solution and not very ergonomic at all for actual sewing. Here's what I came up with today. Perhaps it'll inspire some folks to make something similar or to improve upon my design. Design goals: Wheels must install without tools and be easily removable. Raise table less than 2" (5cm) to keep table height and pedal ergonomics good. No modification of original table legs. Lockable swivel castors. No decrease in overall stability. This project has been bouncing around in my head for some time. The solution shown here consists of two skateboard-like units that clamp onto the original legs on either side of the table. The hinged wheel units on each end clamp onto the floor mount tabs of original table legs. The weight of the table provides the clamping force via hinge levers - the heavier the table, the stronger the clamping force and thus stability. Total cost of materials was about $50 ($25 for the four swivels castors, $15 for 2'x4' fancy phenolic 3/4" plywood, $10 for fours hinges.) Here's what the table looks like wth the new wheels: These close-ups show how the hinged wheel end units clamp down on the tables mounting plates: Here are the parts for one of the wheel units (seven 3/4" plywood pieces, two locking swivel casters, two hinges): The center support board is connected to the two wheel end pieces via hinges - this provides the clamping action to hold the unit in place. The two end pieces have a vertical offset like a fifth-wheel trailer to keep the center support board low enough for good ergonomics of the table and pedal. The sides walls of each wheel assembly are spaced to fit snugly around the table's vertical metal legs to provide support against sideways tilting. It takes more than one person to put these wheel "boots" on. Taking them off is easy - just lift up one end of the table and the wheel boots fall off. The footprint of the wheeled table is considerably deeper front to back, compared to the original table. This provides room for the swivel casters to rotate 360˚ without compromising front-to-back stability. This setup is not going to tip over backwards when you tilt the sewing machine head back.

I have a few old-school Box-X machines (and a pile of cam disks) that I'm dreading to work on. The only one I have any real confidence in is this Singer 68, which seems to be in nice, functional condition, but I know very little about them: For reference just to see what's out there and for rough price guidance, I occasionally visit Miami Sewing Machine's website: http://www.miamisewing.com/specials/tacker.htm I've never dealt with Miami Sewing and can't really say if they're "worthy", but at least they put their inventory online with pictures and a price.On the plus side, they're a day trip away from the Tampa area, which avoids costly shipping of these complex, apparently hard to repair, heavy and fragile machines.

That Singer 42-5 hand wheel looks just right on that machine, I think. Sometimes it's the unexpected combinations that work surprisingly well. Nice job and cool setup!